BASHO

I'd be phoning the joint who did the radiator flush and clarifying WTF 30% blocked meant --, blocked and cleared --more blocked before the flush and now only 30% blocked or what? The entire retail market is full of smart arsed opperators with clever little disclaimers that abrogate what should be counted as reasonable service or care. "Caveat emptor" has never been more relevant than it is now..

Only got factory gauges in mine and only about 29--34c ambient but I dont get big hikes water dosen't move above the middleish and oil just above 90--about 97 as near as I can see but only on realy warm (34c)days.

I'd be interested to see what he actualy gets for it, version 6 is the loverly nutty one, heres Redbook just as a matter of interest . Average Private Price $19,400 - $22,800 Trade In Price Guide $15,200 - $18,600 Average km 110000 - 200000 Price When New (RRP) $60,000

+ Hows the accelerator pedal ?

OK I'm only realy interested in comparing the 98 R34 GTT so to be fair I'll go a year later-- the figure before for the rex is for an MY99 delivered Oct 08 or later, here's the $ for the MY99 delivered in 99 but before Oct 99 note the RRP increase.- 4WD 4sp Automatic Unleaded Turbo 4cyl 2.0 1994cc Average Private Price $8,600 - $10,800 Trade In Price Guide $6,000 - $8,200 Average km 165000 - 275000 Price When New (RRP) $41,790

Just a thought and only about an 98 R34GTT mainly cause I've got one , as near as I can figure this car cost about AUS $38.000.00 in Tokyo in 1998 so I thought I'd use the Aus delivered 98 WRX as a comparison cause it was on the $39990.00 in Aus at that time--- and her's the sobering truth on an 98 MY09 4 DOOR 5seat WRX courtesy of Carsales. 4WD 5sp Manual Unleaded Turbo 4cyl 2.0 1994cc Average Private Price $8,400 - $10,500 Trade In Price Guide $5,900 - $8,000 [/size]Average km180000 - 300000 Price When New (RRP) $39,990. And here's the horrid truth from the same source for a 98 R34GTT 2 door 4 seat coupe, 5sp Manual Petrol Intercooled Turbo 6cyl 2.5 2498cc Average Private Price$15,400 - $19,250 Trade In Price Guide $13,100 - $16,400 Average km Price When New (RRP) AUS$38.000.00 approx-(in Tokyo 1998) These would be on basic stockys with minimum mods price variation according to condition. Skyline price courtesy these guys---- http://english.auto.vl.ru/ Thank fark I've got an import

I've been using Nulon 10/40 Synthjetic Hi Flow for the last 3 oil changes , this time around it cost me $60.00 from Cheaper Auto, if it goes up again in price I'm going to be looking round for an alternative at that price I may as well go the few extra bucks and go for something from Motul. I'm also finding the Nulon seems to apear to age quickly I'd only done 2500ks & 5 months since my last change and if I hadn't known I would have the oil at twice that age, the engine is tight (80000ks) so I doubt theres any excesive internal wear to contribute extra crap--mind you I'm a bit fussy when it comes to oil--

Glut of good quality second hand cars of all types,I know R34GTT has droped about $4.5k on Redbook in the last 6 months--I friken own one. Got into take into account insurance, -car depreciates insurance costs more -finance for many is a worry particularly when the 'book' value aint so hot, Rego, in Qld anyway, on a six cylinder is now friken gigantic--thanks Anna --you dog --and of course the ole chesnut --bloody fuel--. And then there's the service costs , the tuners that shouldn't be let near a piano much less a car, the dealers who wont service and the service people who do who rip and tear at every opportunity and still don't do a thorough/proper job . Shit it's a wonder that there is any market atall for imports, it'll only take the car manufacturers to get smart and bring in a couple of good hot hatches under $22.5K and there probably wouldn't be , though with thier performance to date thats probably to smart a thing for them to figure out. And thats just of the top first thing in the morning.

Like I said I'd pay $4k maybe $4.5 for it , but the R34GTT would have to go as I've only got a single garage , I'd only be using it localy a couple of times a week with an occasional run to blow out the tubes , a bit less than I use the R34 for now and I'd use the PT Cruiser for all the shit work like I do now. The real question is now--do I realy want it ? weeeellll--um-- In a moment of madness a couple of years ago I foreswore performance cars and bought a VW that had had a body off resto had a nice fresh peppy motor in it, good paint and a crap lowering job, steered like a drunken prepi and braked like three leged camel on ice. I fixed the crappy suspension problems and a couple of other bits and drove it a while. Got to tell ya the oil puddles on the garage floor blew the novelty factor pretty sharpish, the friggen thing was like an untrainable puppy and the every 5 minutes service requirements along with packing wheel bearings etc soon lost thier appeal as well , aircon--sure--turn the quarterlight 180 degrees open the window ya wimp, I could go on -but strangely I wont, except to say that how soon we forget just what the "back in the day" vehicles were actualy like. Praps I'd have to say---I think It'd best to have a drive first--

Found this on CarSales, if it's genuine who knows ? I'd go $4.000.00 right now if it is. It's a Datsun 240K GL Hardtop.here's the valuation link. http://www.carsales.com.au/car-valuations/...72&search=1

OK been back to the workshop -twice - the problem is that this frakin noise shows up when the car is properly hot, that is a 30c+day and about a couple of hours worth of running around. it dosent help when I take it in to the workshop and I get a good traffic light friendly run as it cools enough to just be a gwruuur --gwruuur--gwruuur-slightly gratey pulsing noise . --writing on the inside if the belt has been blamed for this. When it's cold it doesn't do it attall. It didn't do it attall for the first 250ks and it worrys me that something is being progressively fraked up as when it does come on now it's progressively worse sounding. When its doing it the noise is like a pulsing stuffed needle bearing crossed with a fan belt thats catchin the radiator shroud all inside an oil drum. Any ides anyone ?

Hmmmmmmm thought not--just a thought anyway >

Is there any way to tell if an odo's been tampered with from any info that may be cumulative in the Ecu ?

Colour, how much and where are the mats ?

Not questioning your wisdom but this will mean that it will be at about 50% over the max mark when hot as its half way between max and min when cold if filled to max mark when hot. Phew if you get my drift.

Is this good for the R34 gTT as well ?

When should the coolant be at the max level in the overflow bottle, when the engine is hot or when it's cold ?

Soft right foot, don't hit hard of the lights, drive like somethings about to break. Around Surfers I get 450-500 a tank with the odd get me outa here squirt, more if I do some highway, shit loads less if I boot it everywhere.

Update-- it's quiet when cold and sounds a bit more like a syncopated srcaping than whiring alnost as though its catching on something when it's hot, can only just hear it inside when at idle and not atall when driving. Any ideas anyone ?

Well I obviously spoke too soon 3 days and 254 ks farkin noisey , was there when I pulled in to the garage this afternoon-horrible frakin thrummin throbbin whir, cant hear it when I'm on the move ---yet---but I let it cool down a bit then started it up wasn't noticable , took it for a run to bring it back up to operating temp pulled into the shed and there it was back again--worse than before aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrgggggggggggggghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh !!!!! SPEWIN !

Well , I can now speak with the voice of experiance, the timing belt service (Gates Racing belt, tensioner bearings, spring and waterpump) was done the day before yesterday by Gavin Woods workshop Autotech and this belt don't squeel, whir, or otherwise make any noise in fact the engine noise is, if anything, quieter. Pays to have it done as the belt that came out of my 98R34GTT 81000ks which I would have thought would have been changed at least once in the cars life looked like it was the original, didn't appear to be cracking anywhere or overly stressed or worn-just origional.. Go Figure

just watchin

Thanks guys , in first thing tomorrow , fingers crossed , I'll post result , but I'm sure they'll be apples. gtr fanPosted Today, 01:13 PM If you want to buy one I have a brand new in packet belt, which I purchased for my R32 GTR (I assume it fits all RB engines). I ended up going with a standard nissan item. $90 including postage anywhere in Asutralia. Thanks mate already got all the stuff

just watchin'

Thanks for that, good as gold, Gavin Woods/Autotec are doing the job so everything should be aces, I was only concerned that it may have been an integral characteristic if the Gates Racing belt.