BASHO

1/From the thought of the mainternance costs 2/ And how would they do that, huge amount of add spend or just bribe the motoring journos ? bullshit is alive and well and well---here.

Same situation --in reverse , mine makes a noise when not engaged--R34GTT.

Unbelevable as it may seem---yes---

just watchin

I'd send it back to stock if I could --if I were you-- lovely car but in this market phew----

Cheers, I'll givem a go

maybe I can break the law just as efficiently in my R34GTT or-(insert ride here) for$35k less or-(insert other amount here) Smokin - interactive-

Yup--if you don't mind that is ? maybe we could make this a sticky ?. maybe I find rwd just plain more fun to drive. - just thought I'd get in the spirit of things.

London to a brick one got dropped when the tyres were changed, happened to me with a set of brand new Momos didn't show up until I did over a 100kph. They were 'out of the box' so I screamed and shouted till the supplier replaced it and let then sort it out with JAX.

I use a sunsahade whenever it's parked in the open, farkit it's Qld, but driving around the dash top gets hotter than a burning witches tit and I don't give a rats if it looks crap , I tend to agree actualy , but it'll diffuse the heat and thats gotta be worth it.

At the risk of being labeled an ignoramous WTF does the climate control sensor actualy do ? I have on off temp variable aircon and ? There is no auto switch (at least that I can find) to control the centre LCDs lights though they will brighten if you go into a dark area from daylight but during normal running daytime they're crap I can't see squat.

The centre LCD lights on my climate control unit and in my head unit appear to be controled by a sensor during daytime running which dims them down to the point of being unreadable Space Goat has kindly advised me where this sensor is (left hand corner of the dash as you sit in the drivers seat) it looks like a small, about 10mm diameter, solar panel. I am going to gleefully cover it up to see if it will undim the two LCD panels so I can actualy read them in the daytime. the sensor does not seem to control anything else and I have no idea if there is any on off control for it though there may be something in the climate control unit if I could only figure it out.

I wonder what is a copy/developement of what in the GT/GTT/GTR sequence ? I am only guessing but I would think that the GT would have preceeded the GTT and the GTT the GTR in the developement sequence. I use these tags loosely as a reference to N/A, single turbo/twin turbo I believe for example with the WRX the good ole Impreza came first the Imprezza WRX second and the WRX STI THIRD in the chicken first egg second fowl third sorta chain of events. I am also aware that in the olden days the very first sold minis were detuned from the pre production prototypes and John Cooper picked them up and made them go fast all over again and made nice quids doing it. My new Enkeis are doing fine and have turned my previously somewhat leaden combination of Kingsprings and stock shockys into a nicely driveable ride.

Ah Ha--thanks mate, i've found what would appear the sensor on the left of the dash as you sit in the car looks like a tiny solar cell about 2/3 the size of a 5c piece I can't however find the on/off function you describe I suspect there may not be one, I'll try covering the cell when I'm driving around and see if that'll do the trick , the main lights and dash/speedo/switchs etc were not activated in the car park I mentioned in my previous post , just the centre console and head unit LCD panels lights. Cheers.

My dash top gets so hot it's a wonder that the instruments work atall does anyone know where I can get a dashmat for an R34GTt from dont mind paying to have one fabricated but I don't have a clue where to start looking. Any leads or ideas anyone ?

Went in a car park the other day and noticed my dash centre console and stereo lights brightened and frak me I could actualy read them (no other lights came on) which means theres a sensor somewhere that activates them the question is where ? so- does anyone know where this little beauty is ?

I've been running a 3.5" in and single 3.5" out oval one of these for about 5 months now , and even wide open it would probably pass the 89/92 decibel or wtf the level is test. I did the wire in myself and took power from the cigarette lighter with a small on/of rocker switch located next to the gearstick and the control box velcro'd down in front of the gearstick just under the ashtray so I can get at the fuse by taking the ashtray out if I need to check it . It was a pita to put the wireing in as I had to remove the back seat ( friggen all of it) to get the wireing through (though others may know of a better way off doing this) I also had to drill a larger hole in the boot next to the spare to get the cable through as the damn plug on the cable wouldn't go through the hole that is already there (you could also cut the cable and re-attach it) , I just followed the factory loom and attached the cable to it with ties and crossed over to the centre console under the drivers seat , If you go this way don't forget to put the grommet for the hole in the boot over the cable before you feed the cable through. You could probably cowboy this though by running the cable underneath the car and comming up through the gearstick BUT it would be visible and as these things are not legal I figured that I would leave as few signs that it was actualy there as possible. If you fiddle with it you can get it to open to just about anywhere you want, I run mine at about 70% open , it cuts out nearly all the mind numbing drone that a 3.5" system notoriously produces and as there is a bypass pipe you loose virtualy no flow loss just the noise, but it was a bit fiddly to do . I have mine highset so the on muffler control is extremely difficult to see and given the basic quietness of the muffler I doubt anyone would bother to give it a good look anyway. One other thing--a muffler shop I talked to told me they can jam so I guess it would be a good idea to fully open and close it fully a few times on a regular basis to make sure it dosen'r 'seat down' as it were. Phew--and thats what I know about that

And the expected dodgem engine life is ?

x 2 + what spec damper cartridge do these have, I'd buy them in a heartbeat but I'm concerned that they may be to harsh for street which is all my ride does-or will do as long as I have it.

X 2 + How old/ how many K's, - raced ?

Thanks for that, the airbox lid wasn't with the car and I can't see anything on the timing cover ferkit, where can I get this kit from ?? Terry_GT-R34Posted 28 Nov 2009, 10:22 PM Here's what I quoted in the following thread Al... It's about the 80,000Km Service + other majors. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...l=service+owner > Post#11 Thanks for the link mate. NA_GoodnessPosted 28 Nov 2009, 08:47 PM When the water pump goes, it'll leak out onto the timing belt, weakening it whether its brand new or not. Even newish belts can snap causing a lot of expensive engine damage. Because the water pump is behind the timing belt, it'll be cheaper to replace it now rather then pulling the belt apart again later down the track. While you're there, you may as well replace the timing belt, tensioners, crank and cam seals, and possibly rocker cover gaskets as well considering they're off anyway. Spark plugs wouldnt hurt either. Do it all together to save from pulling it all apart multiple times. Up to you though mate. I did it all myself, so labour wasnt an issue. Thanks for the thought, I'm handy with a spanner but don't have the confidence to tackle this one, I wouldn't know where to start if it went sideways after reasembly.

I've got an R34 GTT with 80K on it and whilst it has full Japanese log books which appear to indicate a responsible owner and lots of on time servicing I have no idea whether the timing belt has been done or not in any event it would probably be due on years for a 2nd change anyway. How do you tell whether a timing belt is crook or not ? insert when your friken engine craps out jokes here, :-- I actualy got the shits a bit the other day when I called a repairer who advised that the cam and mains seals were not a real necessity but that perhaps the water pump should be done. So my second question is how much of this shit should be done ? working on the preventive maintainance program perhaps I should just replace the entire friken engine ---just in case-----. The car has done 80k FFS has a good service rewcord as far as I can tell and wouldn't hve been flogged if the tight drive and condition is anything to go by. My point is that a $135 gates belt and 3 hours labour is suddenly heading towards a grand without to much imagination. Any oppinions or facts anyone ?

My offer of $320.00 inc Expresspost to Qld 4212 is now increased to $330.00 inc Expresspost to Qld 4212

Has anyone used Sun timing belts or know anything about them ? I'm not saying they're bad just that no-one I've spoken to so far knows anything about them and that includes a couple of people who should/would know.

I'll offer $320.00 for the ebc inc Expresspost to QLD 4212 .