BASHO

Just watching this topic, don't need coilpacks yet, but at 10 years I wont be surprised when I do so just gettin ready.

Completely off topic, so sorry , but where did you get the R34 workdhop manual from ? I did some searching and all I could come up with was the service manual. Grrrrrrrrrr.

Hi, just had a quick look and couldn't find these, do you still have any and how much if you do ? Cheers , Al.

Thanks for that mate, bit of alligators and swamps, came to drain one up to the ass in the other, I actualy phoned Castrol to see if I could get Syntrans 75/85 in 4lt bottles as the only ones on the shelf were 1ltr @ $34ea and innocently asked for thier recomendations, you know the rest. I'm using 10/40 Nulon full syn fastflow in the engine, I don't flog it, and I'll be using the SAF-XA for the Diff. I may have to just bite the bullet and buy the damn Syntrans 75/85 stuff in the 1ltrs. I have used Penrite synthetic 10/10 gear oil, I think 75/90 ? with a nice result in a 00 WRX , I think this has been rebranded though so I'm not sure what it's called now.---I wonder ?

Ah Ha--and here we go. GT-T Series (R34) , 2.5 Litre Turbo Eng., RWD (1998-2003) CrankcaseCASTROL EDGE SPORT 5W-30 Castrol Edge Sport 5W-30 is a full synthetic SAE 5W-30, API SM/CF. ACEA A3/B3/B4 engine oil formulated for highly tuned fast fours and latest technology engines. It provides superb strength and ultimae protection even when running hard, fast or hot. CASTROL EDGE SPORT 0W-40Service Refill Capacity: 4.6* Litres (See Note 510) Manual TransmissionCASTROL VMX 80 Mild extreme pressure gear oil with special viscosity stabilisers to overcome shift problems. Recommended for use in transaxles of most front wheel drive vehicles with a transverse engine and manual transmissions experiencing low temperature shift problems. SAE 75W/80, API GL4. CASTROL VMX-M 75W/85 Mineral transmission and transaxle fluid especially formulated as a factory fill fluid for Mitsubishi vehicles and used in passenger cars, 4WD's and light commercial vehicles. SAE 75W/85, API GL4. Automatic TransmissionCASTROL TQ DIII Castrol TQ DIII is an automatic transmission fluid formulated to satisfy the GM H-36163 specification, and suitable for automatic transmissions requiring a GM fluid. Not suitable for use where Dexron® VI fluids are required. DifferentialCASTROL EPX 80W/90 Multipurpose gearbox, steering gear and differential oil for passenger cars, light trucks, farm tractors and earthmoving equipment. SAE 80W/90, API GL5. (See Note 1174) Power SteeringCASTROL PS FLUID A mineral based fluid suitable for most power steering systems where the following specifications are nominated: Dexron®, Dexron® II & Dexron® III, SAE 10W or 10W-20 engine oil, ISO 32 or 46 hydraulic oil, Ford M2C-33 F/G, Ford M2C-138 CJ, Ford M2C-166H, Ford Mercon, Ford SQM-2C-9010A and Mitsubishi Power Steering Fluid. (See Note 516) Notes*Includes Oil Filter510May also use CASTROL MAGNATEC.516May also use CASTROL TRANSMAX M, CASTROL TQF or CASTROL TQ DIII.1174If operating consistently above 30 deg. C, use CASTROL EPX 85W/140.<script type=text/javascript> var soCastrolEdge120240; soCastrolEdge120240 = new SWFObject("../castr_au/img/CastrolEdge_120x240.swf", "MovieCastrolEdge120240", "120", "240", "6", "#ffffff"); soCastrolEdge120240.write("CastrolEdge120240"); I wonder a bit about these recomendations-------- any comments anyone ??

HER-Well there wont be anything to do to the car this month WILL THERE ? me-ABSOLUTELY NOT ! .

They have sold a precious (accent on 'precious') few 'select' models here I think it was a stock item pre 1990 ? Others will know better than I exactly which, however dealers can sniff out an import downwind at 50 miles and upwind 2 continents away. And will give you as soon as you are within co-ee . Silly realy my missus who is a PT driver was seriously looking at getting a Nissan Micra---was being the opperative word.

Just to add to this, and to my amazement, yesterday I phoned Castrol Oil 'customer service' (and you can take that phrase with a bucket of salt) and subsiquently Castrol Technical to see what oil Castrol would actualy recomend for an R34GTT only to find out that Nissan had failed/refused to provide Castrol with any/sufficient information regarding the R34GTT and as far as I could ascertain not much about other Skylines either and they could not provide me with a recomendation. I got the line , believe it or not , that Nissan grey imports were not supported as policy by one customer service clown . The same line as I got from my local Nissan dealership who I will add has been sterling when it comes to getting parts for me although they wouldn't service or repair if thier nuts were on fire and I had the only extinguisher. So Sol it would seem oils aint oils after all .

Thanks for that .

Like the title, how much and what brand/type of oil for a R34GTT diff and are these Torsen or clutch plate LSDs? I've searched and have'nt found a deffinative answer , I must be looking in the wrong place.

Mate I've got a cannon you can have for nix if you want to pick it up, I'm in Labrador. It's a Jap no name with 3 1/2" inlet came of my 34 when I got a Varex put on. I've got an HKS pod set up you can have for $75.00 if you want, not sure it'll fit an R32 though. You don't have to buy the pod to get the exy, like I said the exy is for nix.

Thanks for the replys I guess I'll wait and see if either of the newy's blows if it does I'll get a full set of KYB's from NZ or go for coilys if a 2nd hand set turn up at the right price.

Right, It's just that the car came with KingSprings and the hight is good (255/260 & 250/255) and the ride not to awfull so I didn't want to throw the baby out with the bathwater as it were, however, if the new dampers I've put in blow that'll be the best way to go for sure, I'm not a fan of KingSprings so it wont't be a hard decision, thanks for the HSD tip .

Mate do you have a part No for these? I phoned Bilstein in Melb last week and they told me that there were none for the R34GTT.

Scuse my ignorance , but what circlips ? I just changed a leaking rear PITA to change shocky and a blown front easy to change one on my R34GTT, both stock OEs and there were no circlips anywhere, I'm running Kingsprings lowers (F355/60 R350/355) the hights remained the same after changing . Back on topic:- I have had shit luck with KingsSprings on both a WRX --going down--to frakin much and a Jeep Wrangler--going up--not a frakinough (at the rear only) also the spring rates were not what were quoted both harder than a witches tit, so one of the main problems may just be the spring manufacturer. Kings will resize for $20 a spring but you're still up for double the in out labour and if you're not in a Kingsprings courier area I spose you'd add shipping and time on as well. I have to agree though that many "suspension specialists" try turn what is a straightforward opperation on 95% of street cars into some mysterious black (wallet tickling) art. Just for an idea on time I have never ever changed struts in my life on anything but I am OK on the tools though not a tradey, I had no workshop manual and the only technical support was from tutorials on good ole SAU and a sheet from the service manual with the torque tightening specs, I worked totaly alone. Car is an R34GTT. One Front took me 2 hours Total R&R. Rear frikin- take the friken back seat out- PITA stupid near concealed bolts- skin my freekin knuckles- sweat my nuts off, one only, took me 3 1/2 hours R&R- but 3/4 of an hour was spent having lunch and getting my temper under control. I am now confident I could R&R (one) in the front in an hour and the rear an hour and a half, alone, using one floor jack amd two jack stands, which is all I have, now I know where everything is. With a hoist and air tools no more than 4 hours the lot.

Check your shockys.. I had a slight tracking problem with roadruts, liked to follow camber a bit to keenly especialy to the left , had a front and rear wheel align nothing realy out but ($60 flung out). Got a slight clink at slow speeds on little bumps on passenger side took it in for a check, turns out I had a blown nearside front shocky so ($45 flung out) replaced it myself ($205.57 invested), no more tracking drives lovely. Decided to check the rears myself on a whim (no $) and---fric my old boots---drivers side rear seeping, obviously for a fair period of time, replaced myself ($173.01 invested) drives even lovelier. R34GTT on Nexen 225x45x17.

And when you pay $67000.00 for a brake rotor and pad change, why that'll only be an extra 3 1/2 large each --frakin woopee

Had a Ser5 FC3C Rx7 with 50000klms, stocky, drank fuel like a drunken sailor, cost me an engine rebuild $7500.00 + a shit load of other stuff because of piss ant 2 bob o seals & corroded rotor housings to say nothing of a warranty court battle that went on till god was an octiginarian (I won but still lost) was nice-ish when it was going, never had a rotary before, never will again. Got a R334GTT stocky except exhy and 25mm lowering, suites me perfectly good fuel, good get up, may tickle it a little. Had a couple of 00 WRX's obvously AWD point and shoot , the 34 is more fun to drive, if you're thinking AWD why not give a couple of WRX STI's a belt and see what you think, the price would be maybe about what you're looking at and you can belt the crap out of them without them breaking, go for the 2ltr ones prior 05/06 they have forgy guts in them OE. stock 0-100 about 5.4 from memory around 180/190kws AAF.

I love my car------------------ till something needs fixing that I can't do myself then I hate all the bullshit that I have to go through to get the right job at the right price so by extension I hate my friken car and when it's all done I hate it even more because it's just cost me half as much more than the freekin repair should have and it's not fixed properly anyway (about 25% of the time) and something else is scratched and/or broken and/or filthed up that wasn't when it went for repair (90% of the time). I finaly find the correct proceedure for fixing the problem after seaching the friken net for days do the whole thing myself like I should have done in the first place, car runs like a swiss watch and I love it again.

Gotcha-------------------ah hem------------ ---------------thanks.

Like the post title. 'Having to open every individual post reply.' The topic comes up no problem but then I'm having to open every single post in the topic individualy , it's beyond freekin annoying and I'm hoping that it's just a temporory glitch , or , my computer having a hissy fit. Jeez, I hope this isn't a pemanent thing , please say it aint.

Have they got saddle or eye mounts on the rear ?

Like the the post says where can I get a clear upper timing belt/cam gear cover from ? It'd be for a 98 R34GTT just in case anyones got one in nice nick laying around.

What's the spring rate please, R34GT or R34GTT and how old/many K's?

LET THE GAMES BEGIN ! I'm origionaly from Moss Side--But some say thats another planet.