alright then. firstly i must say dont listen to nobs that are "in the industry" and think that you should just part with your money. installing an alarm isnt like climbing everest no matter how much they would like you to think it is.
ive just installed a mongoose m80 alarm in my rnu12 attessa bluebird the only thing ive got to do is get the immobilisers working properly because they wont switch but thats not a problem with my freshly found alarm installation skills thats a problem with the last guy who had the car.
right my advice would be to start with the easy stuff and work your way up. i will assume you have all the tools ive got and if you dont do what i did and go out and buy them.
step 1. mount the impact sensor in the middle of the car to a solid place. mines mounted at the bottom of the center console onto solid steel.
step 2. mount the glass break sensor where ever (this is asuming that you have one and its not the mircowave sensor or what ever)
step 3. mount the bonnet switch somewhere that the bonnet will close on. being carefull the first time you close the bonnet that its not resting on the switch simply pushing it down. not how far it is pushing it down and if it needs less cut the top of it off to suit. youll notice that the switch sticky outy bit has grooves these can be cut with plyers or a hacksaw if your more equiped than me. dont be an idiot and just cut it in half. cut it one section at a time untill you think its right. the metal casing of the switch must be grounded. for placement i just used a hole that was factory cut and therefore didnt need to use a drill but next time i have one i will probally drill it and secure it. wire 6 will have to be put threw the firewall and connected to the tab at the bottom of the switch making sure the tab it isnt touching anything metal when its closed.
step 4. mount the horn/siren thing. once again i didnt drill anything i used very strong epoxy which will probally hold longer than it would take someone to unscrew it, with the only problem being it now wont come off if i ever need it to.
horn wiring
step 1. obviously the wire with the loop on it is the ground. this may need to be extended. (if when you turn the siren on after everything is all connected and it goes check to make sure the ground is actually a ground as i put mine onto a screw that screwed into a plastic surround.
step 2. the wire that says 12v needs to go to your positive source, but dont connect it yet as there will be more stuff that can be put togeather with it.
step 3. the signal wire (5) needs to come threw the firewall and connect to the remaining wire.
once everything is done you can use your key to turn the lock on the back of the siren.
step 5. indicators
there is a better way to go about this because my way is very messy. but in principle both ways are the same.
after a couple of hours of searching i could not find where to put the indicator wires and therefore went to exactly where they were. i extended the indicator wires to the front indicators (one for each side, doesnt matter which) and simply piggybacked the positive(in my case yellow) wires with the 1 and 3 wires. since theres never a time you only want the front indicators to go and not the back these yellow wires are common and run to the back indicators aswell. and that was that done.
step 6. wire 2
wire 2 is simply the power for the alarm, put this with your 12v for the siren and plug them onto the battery source your using. whilst were on the subject of power. wire 8 and 9 simply go to ground (hopefully any metal part of your car).
step 7. bonnet trigger.
this is a bit of a prick because in involves locating the wire that runs to the light in your boot (or if your into easy just run another wire to your boot). when you open your boot the light turns on when you close your boot the light turns off. when the bad guize open your boot the light turns on when they close the boot the light turns off. therefore by piggybacking onto the positive wire that powers the light when the boot is opened the alarm will go off. this isnt so simple since all the wires seem to want to run to the back of your car. on my car and probally on yours all these wires run along the drivers side floor and the easiest place to get to them is right beside your gas foot. the way i found which wire was which was by comparing the colours (in my case it was red with green stripe and silver spot, this also happened to be my left brake lamps wire colour aswell) so cut the wire and if the light in the boot doesnt turn on when you open the boot success otherwise join the wire back up.once youve found in join wire 7 to the wire. i cut it and didnt join it back properly so now the alarm works but the light in the boot doesnt but ill get round to fixing that.
step 8. park light input
this is simply so that when you leave your lights on and lock your car the alarm will chirp at you. easiest way to get to this is on the steering column. put it on the grounded side of the park light switch. simple enuff.
step 9. dome light output
this is simply the door open light in the middle of the roof. dont no why they called it dome light since my one is square. now listen a little closer. the reason the dome light output is a negative wire is because your dome light always has positive power. when you switch the switch to alway on it simply grounds to the body of the car. when you switch it to door when the door is opened it will ground through the switch at your door. when its switched off it has no ground. i havent connected my dome light up because i couldnt be assed finding the wires. but if you really want to unscrew your light and see what colours they are and then connect wire 4 to it. but honestly its a lot of work for not much joy.
step 10. negative door trigger.
now im not entirely sure about this one(perhaps someone "in the industry" would tell you for 30$) but the positive door trigger doesnt seem much use/isnt being used by me. this could be because my car is the kind that uses the - where others will use the + or something else. but i havnt connected wire 12 to anything. wire 13 on the other hand got connected behind my dash. this once again isnt that ideal but it works and all you have to do is take you guages out and connect the wire to your open door light that gos into your guages. the only reason i did it this way was because i couldnt track down where the wire came from so i went to where i knew it was. once again piggy back that wire.
step 11.ignition input
this gos to the steering coloumn once again or if you want to be super secret about it maybe it doesnt but the wire is the same. using a multimeter find out which wire go live when you turn the key to the on position, to the acc position and to start position(you will need this for the immboliser aswell). now connect the ignition input (wire 14) to either the wire that gos live with on or acc. i would recommend "on" and this is probally the way it is ment to be done because if you just have it on acc every time you turn your car off 30 seconds latter the alarm will half-arm. whereas with it on "on" you can leave your keys in and have it not arm and not be on acc.
step 12. ch2
dont know what this does but its not vital or atleast i assume its not vital.
step 13. central locking
if your car doesnt have central locking this next bit isnt for you.
step 1 (as iv done it).
open your arm rest and find out which wires lock and unlock the doors. (mine were pink with black stripe for unlock and blue with red stripe maybe for lock).
anyway it should be easy enough to figure out. now connect wire 2 and 6 to your respective unlock and lock wires. then ground orange(1) black(4) and purple(7). brown white and yellow werent needed for me in this setup but if your having problems with it you may need to seek other advice. i connected the wires down by my gas foot as in the side pillar right by my foot is where the power window and door lock timers(controllers) are. this may be different for you and you may need to search for them. the easiest way to find my ones atleast would be to lock the doors and listen for where the click came from.
step 14. immoblisers
now im not entirely sure about this as i havnt got it completely working yet so im going to lay down how i did it and if someone wants to contribute and tell me if/what ive done wrong i would be much appreciative. also im not entirely worried about the mafia steeling my car so i havnt been overly sneaky as of where ive connected the immobilisers so if you would like to pull apart your car and rebuild it from immobilisers up your most welcome to however i get pissy if ive been fiddling around in small places upside down for too long and therefore have been a bit slack (but at the same time you wont be able to sit down in my car and simply cut and arc some shit to make it go again). anyway this is how i did it.
step 1.
behind the fuse box(at your knee) cut the fuel pump wire with at a bit of length as its not too hard to get it back togeather then take one of the double paired wires and join the two wires to one side of the cut and the other double paired wires with the same colour band (to make it easier on yourself) and join them to the other side of the cut. then plug them into you immobliser making sure your getting the same relay.
step 2. if your lazy cut the other wire on the fuse box that gos to the ecu. and follow the same proceedure as before.
step 3. follow the wire (or two in my case) that is used to switch the starter motor on the steering coloumn back abit untill your a safeish/easy enough to get to place where you can follow the same procedure as above. if there is two wires make 4 connections instead of two.
step 4. you dont really have to do this but i was worried at the thickness of the wires for the starter motor so i did. if you think you may be exceeding your 15 amp loading of the immobliser then put a 15 amp fuse between the wires instead of plugging them in and turn the car on. if the fuse blows its too much current if it doesent try going to a 10 then 5 amp fuse. i would probally still avoid using the wires if it blows a 10 but i 5 shouldnt matter that much.
step 15. plug in the led and find where you want it to go.
step 16. testing and tuning.
check that the car does everything it should and that you cant get into it ect ect. if your immoblisers dont work: sorry. and please tell me because then i will know ive stuffed up. use a small screw driver to play with the shock/noise sensor to get it to where you want it.
im not sure how to go about the turbo timer function as i havnt put mine back in yet (i think i might have stuffed up the starter motor immobiliser for the turbo timber but that can be fixed)
oh yea. you probally want to mount the alarm box thing somewhere and then probally put your dash back in once youre sure youve got it right.
well i hope this has been helpful. of course i havnt got all the answers and people "in the industry" will probally cringe at some of the stuff ive done but atleast ive now got an alarm that will keep the majority of crims at bay and it has cost me 150$ less than it wouldve for some high school dropout to do the same job.
another thing if you stuff up your car from following this its probally not my fault this is how ive done it on my car and comming from someone who a month ago had never installed an alarm before to now ive learnt alot as im sure you probally will and i still am, you will probally also hate your car by the time your finished but love it just the same. oh and im not sorry about my spelling or gramma, i just dont care thats all.
