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just thaught ide add to stock turbo r33 gtsts making over 200rwkw. because i think people need to realize its not as uncommon or amazing as alot of people think. 3in turbo back exaust, high flow cat std turb 11psi pod with cai ex cam gear -3deg hks type s fmic std ecu+ safc 2 208.8rwkw and done a 13.4 on its first run at wsid

Your right, i start thinking im over my car sometimes but all i have to do is spend a little time away from her (holidays or when shes getting rapaired or when i borrow someonelses car) and the moment i get back in the drivers seat all my love is restored! but the love soon fades as i start taking her for granted again.

ok ill help you out.... if something costs you 10 oranges and you pay duty of 1 orange to get it in the country(10%) you have now paid 11 orange in total, then johnny howard wants a sum of oranges equal to 10%(gst) of your 11 oranges (1.1oranges)so in total you have now paid 12.1 oranges. 2.1 of those being in taxes making the total amount of taxes 2.1 oranges or 2.1/10 which gives you 21%.....pretty close to 25% (you wouldnt exactly describe 21 as being NOWHERE NEAR 25 would you)

sorry cant show you mine..... its top secret :wassup:

Did anyone mension that they are also cheaper because aussie tax/duty is not include in that price(this is where most if not all of your saving comes from). if you get picked up at customs its about another 25% ontop of nenguns price. Not to mension costs in retuns if the item shipped is the wrong part or faulty (not likly but possible) also there is sometimes a pretty long wait for parts (weeks to months). yes overseas is cheaper but it does have its risks

Hi all, Just thaught i would share a story about some goodluck that saved me some money and may save you some to. For a long time my drivers side power window switch has been playing up occasionally bashing on the side of the door would sometimes fix it, anyhow i finally mustered up the energy to buy a new one and fix it when i got the new switch home i noticed it had a different plug connection (damit) had to drive back to the wreckers and get the right one. UNFORTUNATLY they didnt have the right one and refunded my 175 bucks (great bunch of guys). I didnt have much to do that arvo so i decided to pull it apart and fix it myself (didnt think i had much chance cause i thaught it was the electric switch that shagged). Apon pulling it apart i noticed the actual switch cant make it back to neutral on its own and requires the button and return spring in the button to do so. the only problem was the plastic on my button was cracked so half the time it couldnt do it. a bit of superglue latter she now works like new and i keep my 175 big ones

joel, I would be very interested to see the results of your test.

are you sure thats what you said?? if you agree with the above statement then your agreeing that your final temp will be lower.. try those formulas with whatever numbers you like and see...dont forget your 70% efficient i/c it shouldnt matter to what scale i was talking about, cars arnt exempt from the laws of phisics......it probably wont be as huge a difference as in the aircraft aircon, but maybe just enough to kill a myth like atmo bovs get rid of the hot air. i think the only theory on atmo bovs is that they are louder!

Well actually sydney kid in an aircraft the air you breath in the cabin (on a large passanger a/c ie, 747) is bleed from the compressor section of a gass turbine engine either an apu...that noisy thing right on the ass of the plane (when its ON THE GROUND), or the engines (in flight) and enters the a/c system at close to 200 deg c from memory, and the aircon system gets the air temp down to -4 its so effective they have to heat it at the end to get it to a comfortable temp. (I thaught this was pretty amazining) The aircon system works by sending air from the engine or apu through a heat exchanger (the cooling air for the heat exchanger ON THE GROUND is ambient air! in flight because of ambient air being so cold and the system so effective air cooling air is either shutoff or reduced) then the comressor side of effectivly a turbo from there another heat exchanger then it goes through the turbine side of the turbo (expansion, this is where the temp really drops) I understand that cars dont fly but do you honestly belive that aircraft only have aircon in flight! If mr boeing designed a plane with an aircon system that only worked in flight where cold air was least needed i think he would go bankrupt. anyhow sorry if its abit onesided to aeroplanes but it was the only practical example i could find that acually used the principles in my original post to lower temps. I know you will probably pick at the difference ie, the air was compressed by the engine before, theres 2 heat exchanges, the air finally goes through the turbine, The turbine section on a car is so hot But it really doesnt change the facts below. My understanding is that on the comp side of the turbo the heat to the air was only generated by compression(honestly how much heat soak is really getting to the air at full noise when the air is traveling a million miles an hour) sometimes when i touch the cold side of my cooler it feels icy i can also remember in my days of rice (which wasnt that long ago and sometimes still is)disconecting my plumback and pulling the accelerator cable to feel the swoosh and i must admit it was pretty cold. If compression is the cause of the heat??(I mean how else is it creating it), expansion (or returning it to the pressure it previously was) will get rid of it (return it to the temp it previously was) reguarless off how efficient the turbo is(this is a law of phisics, check out the gass laws), accept weve forgotten the cooler that you stated was 70% efficient i dont know about you but doing the math it looks to me like the final temps gonna be lower than the starting?? Does anyone get my drift yet. OK now im gonna brace myself for your response... please be gentle Ps. I enjoyed your explination of aircon by turbo inefficiency and intercooler efficiency did you just make that up or did you know what you were talking about?? Who has really lost it hear! (Just kidding).

Well actually sydney kid in an aircraft the air you breath in the cabin (on a large passanger a/c ie, 747) is bleed from the compressor section of a gass turbine engine either an apu...that noisy thing right on the ass of the plane (when its ON THE GROUND), or the engines (in flight) and enters the a/c system at close to 200 deg c from memory, and the aircon system gets the air temp down to -4 its so effective they have to heat it at the end to get it to a comfortable temp. (I thaught this was pretty amazining) The aircon system works by sending air from the engine or apu through a heat exchanger (the cooling air for the heat exchanger ON THE GROUND is ambient air! in flight because of ambient air being so cold and the system so effective air cooling air is either shutoff or reduced) then the comressor side of effectivly a turbo from there another heat exchanger then it goes through the turbine side of the turbo (expansion, this is where the temp really drops) I understand that cars dont fly but do you honestly belive that aircraft only have aircon in flight! If mr boeing designed a plane with an aircon system that only worked in flight where cold air was least needed i think he would go bankrupt. anyhow sorry if its abit onesided to aeroplanes but it was the only practical example i could find that acually used the principles in my original post to lower temps. I know you will probably pick at the difference ie, the air was compressed by the engine before, theres 2 heat exchanges, the air finally goes through the turbine, The turbine section on a car is so hot But it really doesnt change the facts below. My understanding is that on the comp side of the turbo the heat to the air was only generated by compression(honestly how much heat soak is really getting to the air at full noise when the air is traveling a million miles an hour) sometimes when i touch the cold side of my cooler it feels icy i can also remember in my days of rice (which wasnt that long ago and sometimes still is)disconecting my plumback and pulling the accelerator cable to feel the swoosh and i must admit it was pretty cold. If compression is the cause of the heat??(I mean how else is it creating it), expansion (or returning it to the pressure it previously was) will get rid of it (return it to the temp it previously was) reguarless off how efficient the turbo is(this is a law of phisics, check out the gass laws), accept weve forgotten the cooler that you stated was 70% efficient i dont know about you but doing the math it looks to me like the final temps gonna be lower than the starting?? Does anyone get my drift yet. OK now im gonna brace myself for your response... please be gentle Ps. I enjoyed your explination of aircon by turbo inefficiency and intercooler efficiency did you just make that up or did you know what you were talking about?? Who has really lost it hear! (Just kidding).

i recon the air being plumbed back is gonna be colder, i mean the air goes through the turb is compressed and as a result increases in temp then the fmic takes some heat out then the air gets plumbed back and drops in pressure back to atmospheric so theoretically it should drop back to a temp lower than it came in cause the fmic took some heat out if you know what i mean, kinda hard to explain over the keyboard but this is exacly how the aircon works in a large aircraft (air cycle machine). Because of this i recon get the plumback What do you guys think does it make sence or have i completely lost it???

From what i remember when i tried to figure it out myself i was doin 70 at 2000rpm and 110 at 3000rpm it seem you increase 40kph per 1000rpm (in fifth gear) from that at redline (7000rpm) theoretically you would be doin close to 270kph. i recon your gonna need a fair bit of power to get it there though. Hey why not just try it for yourself go for a drive see the difference in speed for an increase 1000rpm then see how fast your going at a set rpm and add the difference you worked out earlier for every 1000rpm after that until you get to redline, that should give you a theoretical top speed. If that makes any sence.

I done my CAI myself, just cut some of that heat sheild foam to shape, Then enlarged the spare cooler piping hole out to 4inches, made a mould out of chicken wire and masking tape to go from the 4inch hole to that hole in the front bar (400r, next to the blinker) and mould around it then just covered the mould in fibre glass and when it set ripped the mould out (sorta like paper mashey). It works really well, i have a rush pod and before i done the cai the metal bell bit was always too hot to touch but now its always cold like not even a bit warm.

there should be a thread where you can post like crazy making no sence at all just to increase your points, or is that cheating??

Hey how come ive only got 15pts i was sure i had more than 1 post...unless ive only had one post since this new pts thing came in??

If you definatly know its the turb and you do the work yourself you will get away with it for whatever you pick the std turbo up for see in the for sale section. If there isnt one for sale do a search there would have been in the past and it will give you an idea of what there worth. The job is pretty sraight forward (just 4 lines with banjo fittings and bolts and hose clamps hear and there to attach manifolds etc. from memory) its abit fiddly but you save $$$ and get the satasfaction of doin it yourself and learn abit more about your car. Dont know how much a mec would charge have to be afew hours at least. Good luck, hope it doesnt end up being anything to serious. Theres a good chance its not gonna be anything to serious with the engine if youve still got std ecu correct me if im wrong but if you dialed in tomuch boost you would have hit fuel cut well before the std pump ran out of huff, i mean whats the point in nissan putting that sort of protection on the car if its gonna lean out and destroy the engine before it kicks in. The std ecu is very protective of the engine but i guess anything can happen

How does air leak at zero pressure?? i always thaught you needed a difference in pressure to get movment. anyhow i know for a fact it does leak under pressure cause i blew on it and like alot of other peolpe found out when they tried this it bypassed air (leaked), aparrently a human being can generate almost 2 psi with there mouth i found the harder i blew the more it leaked. this would mean it leaks under pressure wouldnt it?

Ok, wouldn't that little leak be just like if you had a leak in your manifold (when the stock bov is venting to atmo of course) and a leak in your manifold would cause rough/no ide wouldn't it? I just recon this little leak is why the stock bov doesnt idle when vented to atmo and most other aftermarket ones do because they dont have that little leak. Dont get me wrong im all for the stockie being plumbed back and dont know why anyone would want it venting to atmo. My mate tried to tell me once that venting to atmo was better cause the hot already compressed air went back infront of the turbo again with a plumb back, i dont recon this is really true cause when air drops in pressure it drops in temp aswell so theoretically it would go back at the same temp as it came in, accept of course that the intercooler has already taken some heat out so maybe the air would go back at a lower temp than it came in? would this make plumbacks better?? Also i can see some good in blocking off the hole, yes it may stop the smoothing out as may people have said thats why nissan put it there but surly the turbo would not be working as hard to make the same boost?

I wonder if a stock bov with the screw mod vented to atmo would idle better seeing as it wouldnt be leaking and causing afr probs?? Just a thaught.. I know a completly stock one will contiuously stall when vented to atmo. My stokies got the little mod might vent it to atmo and see how it goes just for curiositys sake, however i dont know why youde want it venting to atmo considering all the negative sides to it, and if your into the noise the stockie bov plumbed is pretty loud when youve got a pod filter, well mine is anyway.

100x better, are you sure your not exadurating just a little. I mean where do you get 100x from is it because it goes 100x faster, puts down 100x more rwkw or just cause your 100x more of a nob. Maybe seeing as your car is 100x better and you picked it up for $23000 i should divide $23000 by 100 to come up with the asking price for my car??? Anyhow the add states ono this stands for OR NEAREST OFFER for those who dont know.

Woops thanks guys, i must have been suffering from dislexia(hope that spellings ok and i dont get drilled again) yesterday.

Am thinking of selling my car i love it to death but insurance is to expensive and it stresses me out driving around without it. As stated its a 1993 R33 Gtst with.. #400r front bar and side skirts with M-spec rear pods (std s1 wing) #Hks type-s fmic kit #Full 3in turbo back exaust with h/f cat and 4.5in titanium cannon #Rush 02 pod with heat shield and CAI #Adjust ex cam gear 3.5 deg ret #Bosch 910 fuel pump #Safc II(dyno tuned) #boost set 11psi(turboxs bleeder)+rb20 actuator #C's short shifter #2in autometer boost guage #18in shadow chrome rims pedders springs lowered 1.5in #brant 3pt imobalizer #Solace f1 window tint #Leather gear and hbrake boots #Maroon in colour #Done 80,000km and has manual and logbooks from japan complied in 2001 when it had 36000km (completly stock)and has been owned by me eva since Car is absolutely imaculate inside and out, $24500ono. Contact Shaun, 0414569024 or pm me for more details.

i agree with neil_se, I got my hks type s kit for 1400 odd total (after i paid stamp duty) seems to work well and looks very well made. Your not really saving much goin for the hybrid. But then again maybe theres not much between the 2 kits anyhow havent really taken a good look at a hybrid, either way i dont know why everyone says jap kits are super expensive they end up cheaper than most of the aussie kits going around unless ofcourse you go and buy there top of the range jap stuff.

Yahoooo, success at last! i ground the wastegate port out a fair bit (so there was less than an 1mm perimiter for the w/g and went for a drive this arvo and bam boots sat pretty dead on 10psi right through the revs, got full boost abit before 3000 (high side of 9psi pretty close to 10) crept to the low side of 10psi by 5000 then sat dead on 10 psi for the rest till redline. more than good enough for me. this was with the rb20 actuator havent tried it with a bleeder or the diy controller yet but im guessin it ill be sweet so im off to get the safc tuned finally, thanks to everyone that had an imput.