theforce

Hey, so far I've changed 2 fuel pumps coz they got blocked. I've changed the strainer and fuel filters as well, but they just get blocked again. If you think cleaning the tank may make my job easier, how do I go about doing that? or should I get a radiator place to do it? From memory they charge a few hundred dollars as some have to physically remove the tank to clean it! I wouldn't mind siphoning the old fuel and putting some "fuel tank cleaner" in there and mixing it or letting it say until tank is ready for emptying. Like I said, I haven't attempted this before and if someone has, could they please guide me how they went about doing it?

Hey mate, I'm in the process of doing this aswell but I've got a R33 GTR. You have any idea how different they made be? You mind putting some pictures up! I was thinking of getting a mechanic to do this, but if you can tell me how easy it maybe, I might try it out myself (I've got some tools and some elbow grease ) Cheers

Hey, it could be any of the few: ignition - spark plugs/coil packs, electrical - maybe try a stock ecu (if your cars stock) since your afm seems fine already, fuel - fuel pump ok??. If it misses up to, most likely engine not receiving enough fuel.

Hey, I've used a Nissan version of the Consult cable but its only limited to the software you've got. With the basic software they provide or that you can download, you'll only be able to detect errors and check up on engine vitals. You'll need to purchase the full software if you want to be able to tune your car. Check out NIstune videos on youtube as they demonstrate how to do basic tuning using their software. Hope that helped

Hi guys, I've got a R33 GTR V-Spec. I'm in the process of changing my stock fuel pump but upon opening the tank I noticed some dirty fuel. Mind you, I only use V-Power. So I don't to risk clogging up my new fuel pump because of dirty tank. So I've decided to change the tank for good. I know its not an easy job so I'm thinking of getting a local mechanic to do it for me. What I want to know is what other R33 model styline fuel tanks will be suitable for a R33 GTR. I know for a fact that the fuel send is different for a GTS-T compared to a GTR and they both have different part numbers (I'm assuming they want to sell the GTR one for more???) Need to get this sorted quickly to get car moving again Has anyone done this before? any place recommend to get this done at in melbourne se? rough cost of changing tanks? Cheers

Thanks for your reply guys. The ecu itself looks un-touched, its the wiring thats been spliced and the afm wire coming to the ecu was all over the place, cut/soldered/extended. So I fixed all that, no extra wires there now. I turned it on this morning and it turned on first go, drove fine when I went round the block. The real test will be in the next few days when I drive it to work, which is like an hour in traffic as well. Really frustrating when people screw around with these cars and don't let others know about it. Thats why I've changed everything back to stock in this car except for the led tail lights and cat-back . Will post how it goes during the week.

Haven't checked coil packs yet. How do I go about doing that? remove one by one when engine is running and see how the engine behaves? or with a multimeter? Also, since the car is stock, am I using the correct plugs for a stock car? I believe I put in BCPR6ES, which is pre-gapped at 0.8mm. I put these in after browsing these forums and people suggested that these behaved better than the 1.05 or 1.1mm gapped plugs and will suit the engine when/if boost was raised. I pulled the ecu plug out and removed all the wire that were taped into it and re-soldered the original wiring. Battery ground was not plugged during this process, which took around 40minutes. I reconnected everything and car turned on first, although lumpy and choky at start, it slowly settled after I test drove it for 30minutes. Revs went all the way and no choking. Turned car off and then took it for another drive an hour later and it all seemed good. I'm hoping the ecu re-set itself and is learning everything now, but will find out in the next few days. Thanks RB25PWR, will keep posting what happens, hopefully nothing happens

I looked around and some people suggested to reset the ecu when afm is changed or cleaned/re-soldered. So I removed the ground from the battery to chasis and took the connector out of the ecu (removed the bolt). After about 45mins I plugged everything back in and the car hesitated to start for about 5mins. Then it turned on and after 5mins turned off. When I managed to get it on again, I took it for a drive. It would go over 45km/h and would choke and turn off if I accelerated even a tiny bit. Also alot of black smoke, prolly indication of running rich? Then afm voltage is something like 0.08V when I check with the consult cable on my laptop. I'm thinking of removing any wire tapped into the ecu loom and checking the afm wiring as I found a pinout for the ecu. See if that works.

Hi guys, First of all, I've researched this problem everywhere and followed advices, but none had fixed this problem. I've got a 94 R33 GTS-T automatic. Only mod is a cat-back exhaust. Recently out of nowhere it turns off randomly. Sometimes it turns off after 30seconds when you start it. Other times when the car is warm in driving, it loses power and starts to choke until it turns off. It also sometimes turns off when you are on a small slope and you let go of the accelerator. I've changed the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs (BCPR6ES), haven't changed oil/oil filter yet. I've also checked the fuel pump and seems fine. I re-soldered my old Green Label AFM and that didn't help. The AFM made no difference to the engine note when engine was started with afm not plugged, and when afm was plugged back in and revved, it started to choke. I bought another 'tested' afm and test drove the car yesterday for 45 mins and it was all good. But this morning after a short drive it turned off when the accelerator was released. Also the previous owner may have had a Apexi AVCR or SAFC as I checked the ecu and it had wires tapped into it. Any ideas or suggestions. Is this electrical problem? could something be loose? spark plug transistor? fuel pump relays?

JVC speakers and Sub Box SOLD

R33 SMIC piping SOLD Still Available: - R33 Stuffed headlights - R33 Interior Bits (Din is SOLD) - Sony CD Changer

does anyone know if the r32 gtr wing will fit a r33 gts-t?

Update Sub Box SOLD JVC Speakers SOLD 1 x White LED Lamp SOLD

I thought this was free , cost $40 for the software.

off topic, but is that you in your avatar anyway, I got a black one in melbourne if that helps. Cheers

You have PM

Hey, I got some smic pipes! I'm in SE melbourne. You have PM

Yeah I got one. You have PM

I've added a few items from my other post as I've dropped some prices. **** 38 ITEMS **** ** I've Combined Everything in 1 AD ** **Everything Is Brand New** 1 - H4 HID Kit (6000K - 35W) - $85 2 - Honda Civic 2000 Projector Style Headlights with Globes - $85 3 - 2 x Honda Strut Brace (suits civic, integra, accord) - $60 each Strut brace application: - Honda Civic (92-00), CRX (88-91), Accord (90-02), Integra (90-01) OR $150 for both 4 - Sony Subwoofer 12" 1000W - $85 5 - 12" Sub Box silver checkered - $60 6 - Sony Headunit MP3, AUX, USB, Rear SUB/AUDIO OUT - $120 7 - Kenwood 6" 2WAY 170W Speakers - $50 8 - Sony Xplod 6" 3WAY 170W Speakers - $50 9 - JVC 180W 5-1/4" Dual Cone Speaker - $50 9 - Kenwood 2CH AMP - $120 AMP Details: * Amplifier Type: Dual Channel * Bridgable: Bridgable * RMS Power at 4 Ohms: 40 W x 2 * RMS Power at 2 Ohms: 60 W x 2 http://www.shopping.com/xPO-Kenwood-KAC-5201 10 - Karcher Cleaning Kit - $40 11 - 12 Volt Tyre Inflator, Vaccum, Torch, Jump starter - $20 12 - Aluminum Gear/Shift Knobs, : $15 each Manual Gear knobs have 4 different universal fittings: 8mm,10mm,11mm,12mm 1 x Aluminum Chrome 1 x Aluminum Carbon Fiber Style Red 1 x Aluminum Carbon Fiber Style Blue 13 - Aluminum Hand Brake Lever: $10 each 1 x Aluminum Chrome 1 x Aluminum Carbon Fiber Style Blue 15 - Aluminum Auto Shift Knob - $15 each 1 x Aluminum Chrome 1 x Aluminum Carbon Fiber Style Red 16 - Interior LED LAMP, Super Wide Angle n High Brightness (Festoon) - $10 Pair 4 pair x LED Amber 3 pair x LED White 17 - Ignition 6 DVD Collectors pack - $25 18 - 2 x Cone Pod Filters, 3" clamp on rubber neck (clamp included) - $20 each 19 - HID H1 Globes, 150/130W, Super Plazma Xenon Bulb - $30 pair 20 - Xenon Headlight Bulbs, H3 12V 55W PK22s - $20 pair 21 - 2 x NARVA PLUS 50 Head Light Globes, H1 12V 55W PK14.5s, 50% more light, 20m longer beam - $20 pair 22 - NARVA PLUS 50 Head Light Globes, H7 12V 55W, 50% more light, 20m longer beam - $20 pair 23 - Red P-plates, Magnetec n See through - $5 pair 24 - Sony Monitor - 6.2" Headrest/Dash Board Mount Monitor - $250 Features: * 6.2" inch TFT monitor * PAL/NTSC Switchable * Wide Viewing Angle * Headrest Housing and Mounting Plate Supplied * 2 x Audio Video Input This is all I can think of. More items may be added later to "MASSIVE Sale # 2 - DIRT Cheap" Pick-up from Berwick or can post at buyers expense.

Gear Knob n Pillar Pod SOLD

You have PM

Your posting in the wrong thread! Try 'Wanted To Buy' and you may get some responses.

Still available: - R33 Stuffed headlights - R33 Random SMIC piping - R33 Interior Bits (Din is SOLD) - Sony CD Changer Offers are welcome

PM replied Thanks

Hey Guys, got a few price changes as room is filling up, got other stuff coming in! FIRM - Kenwood Amp - $110 - Sony Head Unit - $110 - Pillar Pod - $30 - Karcher Kit - $35 - Gear Knob - $15 - HID Kit - $80 - Sony Monitor - $250 Postage will be $15.