T0nyGTSt

Hmm... The story goes that a good FMIC will let you boost to 0.9 bar on an S1 ceramic turbo. After that you better be looking for a steel wheel or a HKS GT2540 or something like that... (3037??? HA HA!) T.

You want to buy a Skyline locally? $330 sounds like a lot. You might want to get some people here who know what to look for to give it the once over... When I got my Skyline from the ship I had some mates go over it and give me a sorta inventory of what's on it and what needed to be fixed. T.

Enkei's? pimpin' mobile there. T.

Where the hell do you live? How the fark is it only $1,250... FOR A GT-R fer farks sake... T.

This is one of those arguments that goes around every so often. And it's because none of use can afford the R34 M-Spec Nur II we really want. I don't think weight is such a great issue. I just had my car weighed and it was 1,380kg on the dot just as the shipping company said. I suspect there has been some lightening work somewhere as this is not normal as it is pretty well loaded. My goal is 245kW at the crank, maybe 200rwkW. This is the 330hp that the BMW M3 can do at the crank. I'm pretty sure this is available with the OEM ceramic turbo. But what it came down to is what I could afford, what I wanted without going overboard in engine mods and what I felt was attractive. I like the last of the '95 Series 1 Skylines... By the same token I like the r33 GT-R V-Spec II and this is ultimately what I want even though I may be able to afford an r34... I just like the way the "33" looks. T.

http://www.nitroware.net/~tony/skyline_manuals.jpg LOL T.

Why do you want it? It's all in Japanese are largely useless because of that. T.

Isn't Shell a girl in Canberra? Is there pix or sumtink? T.

0.9 bar a lot for a stock turbo. I run 0.8 and I should turn it down on hot days as soon as I CBF using the EBC. T.

Well my friend you need to look at the PowerFC Pro + the AVC-R + Hand Controller. That's probably the fat end of $2,500+ gone. Or try a HKS F-Con Pro. They are similarly expensive. You would be hard pressed to buy better at any cost for road cars. T.

I find that if I downshift and leave it in gear, it's fine. It only does it in neutral so to me it feels like a BOV issue. T.

Read this: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=8695 T.

The 33 has the big 2.5 which is good for screwing out large amounts of horsepower. I have doubts about whether sticking a huge turbo and screwing up the boost on a 2.0 litre motor is all that good. T.

Yeah right. I'm sure many many many 32/33/34's here will smoke the hell out of sr20 cars... T.

The battery is in the boot so I think you're safe. I need my bay cleaned as well. Do you keep water away from the BOV and shit? T.

Try Northshore Mitsu/Nissan. They reckon they are good. Maybe. T.

Yeah I need my HKS shit softened and perhaps raised. Way too stiff, too much scrapage. Ideally you need to bring it to the place who distributes it. T.

Hey asses... This is my car... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=8596 Front dam, lights, mesh by Jetspeed. T.

PowerFC = full replacement racing ECU with logging, programming etc. S-AFC = piggyback air/fuel controller. T.

Vision aren't exactly all that cheap... T.

Hmmm... I'm interested in spraying 400r skirts + rear bar as well... Jetspeed are cool, I can get a quote off them as I'm on good terms with them. T.

Roy. ~$1,300 from Nengun for a PowerFC. Get it. Solve your problems it will. T.

I wonder about this. Since it is only passing cool air, why does one need super strong mandrel bent pipes? Air won't place much stress on any material. I have SS pipes on my FMIC (ARC brand) but I don't see why cheap PVC or whatever wouldn't be just as good. T.

Forget the S-AFC, get a PowerFC if you can swing it. The AFC is only a small subset of the functions in a PowerFC. T.