brentos

Thanks for your help I thought that something may have been wrong as after I put them back in I tried pushing them by hand. Some of them were able to move in and out easily where as others were as hard as a rock, seemed tight and didn't move at all

Hi all, I have a S2 RB25DET from a R33 and I decided to give the head a bit of a clean while I had it off. Tipped the head upside down, all the buckets fell out and I didn't pay attention to which one went where. My question is are the intake buckets the same size as the exhaust ones? Does it matter which one goes where for this motor? Asking because when I searched I was only able to find this info about the Neo engines but wasn't able to find any info about the earlier 25s. Thanks

Also the replacement seals seem to have a little spring going around the inside of it :

Hey guys just a quick one. Which way do the cam seals go in? Like this: Or like this: The reason I ask is I just installed my 264 cams and didn't take note of which way they were facing when I removed them and after putting it all back together had a nasty oil leak from both seals. I have since got replacement seals and just want to make sure I do everything correct this time. Also I believe I can put oil on the inside of the seals and gasket goo on the outside of the seals? Thanks

Just throwing it out there one more time just in case! Just finished fitting the GT3076 today and am still after a dump pipe to suit if someone has one? Otherwise I'll just organise a tow to an exhaust shop w/ a suited flange and get one made up. Cheers

An update. A couple of days ago I put 20ml of Subaru upper engine cleaner into each cylinder and left it over night. The following day I went for a drive and tested it again, here are the results. CYL1: 140 CYL2: 110 CYL3: 115 CYL4: 120 CYL5: 120 CYL6: 130 I came to a conclusion. I am just going to enjoy the car and not worry too much about it. I have been a bit delayed in replying because I have been busy the last couple of days fitting the GT3076 back to the car, so I can just send it. The car will of course be getting a re-tune once its fitted, just for peace of mind.

I used a better quality gauge that my Dad had and here are the results: CYL1: 145 CYL2: 115 CYL3: 120 CYL4: 125 CYL5: 130 CYL6: 142.5 Na it doesn't seem to be using any oil, the oil went in 2 months ago and I just checked it still at the max. It is a little thinner than when it first went in but I assume that's just a reaction to the E85 I like your thinking haha. That's the plan now

Thanks for the replies Agreed, it is what it is. Just another quick question: The cam timings being off affecting the valve opening/closings wouldn't make it slightly lower than what it should be (considering how they are all now at least consistent?) It is a $50 Autobarn tester, I am not sure how good it is considering the price is on the cheaper side compared to other ones. I know my Dad has a proper good one, I should have just waited and used that to know for sure. Well I took it for another drive on the weekend after putting it all back together. The new fuel pump, new plugs, new fuel filter went in and the splitfires were put back in after being sealed with Selleys 601 - it drove great. Just got the 3076 rebuilt , may just pop it back on and take it back to the tuners to get them to fix the tune/timings and see how it holds up on the dyno and if all good I will drive it until it breaks then look into a rebuild etc.

Actually I probably only idled the car for 5 mins last night before checking so it was more like a lukewarm test. Would it be worthwhile going for a drive now for 30 mins and testing it again, properly hot?

The new fuel pump finally arrived today and I just finished putting it in tonight. I thought it might have been worth while doing a warm test after running it for 10 minutes before ordering and trying Seafoam or Subaru upper engine cleaner. I got much more consistant results: CYL1: 90 CYL2: 85 CLY3: 90 CYL4: 90 CYL5: 100 CYL6: 100

Yeah it was on e85 only when stored. Although the tank and lines were emptied before it sat there for 5 years That thought did cross my mind haha ?

Thanks for the replies. Drove it hard at times, but not always. It drove well. Was not blowing smoke back in 2015. Recently after getting it all back on the road again my missus was driving behind me and said she saw a burst of white smoke within the first 20 seconds of driving after having just started it, but it apparently went away and was fine the rest of the way home. Can't recall whether it was comp tested when I first got it, my memory is pretty bad but I have a suspicion that It wasn't. Coolant flush was done last week, it was in pretty poor condition, rusty old water, but no traces of oil. Now it is nice and green and still doesn't appear to be have any oil in it nor is there foam coming to the top. I am yet to dump the oil to check it but will also do that this week to check how it looks. Fuel pump hopefully going in sometime between weds and fri depending on when it gets delivered. Will run it and warm it up to do a hot test. Will also look into doing a leak down test, I will read up a bit of info on how to perform one first. I should point out the other day, started the car it was running on 5 cylinders, diagnosed it as CYL3 by doing the unplugging of the coilpack one-by-one. I swapped coil 1 with 3 (labelled them all first so I don't mix them) and the problem stopped and I haven't been able to replicate it since. But to be on the safe side I have since ordered a new fuel pump (Because the old one was sitting there for 5 years while car wasn't running), replaced all plugs (went one range cooler to BCPR7ES because there was indicators of lean conditions on the old plugs), replaced fuel filter and have also used engineering sealant on the Splitfires to seal in any hairline cracks or what not. May also change the coilpack leads.

Sorry for the lengthy post and I hope it all makes sense. Back in 2011/12 my R33 S2 GTST was setup with the following: GT3076 .82 internally gated Usual supporting mods. PLUS: 740cc injectors 460lph walbro FP Camtech 256 cams with adjustable camgears on inlet and exhaust PowerFC Tuned on e85 made 344rwkw @ 21PSI. Around 2014/15 Motor eventually let go as expected as I was pretty hard on it. The crankshaft bearing was gone, got someone to help me replace the bearing but the wrong sized one was put in, it grabbed and shot a piston out of the side of the block. At this stage the only option was to replace the entire motor, and it was changed with a stock S1 motor. The cams were not changed into this motor and I can't remember exactly why (Either they were damaged or we ran out of time at the workshop and my car had to go) This motor was running the previous motors tune (tuned with the old cam setup etc) Shortly after and before I got a chance to get it re-tuned, I got defected (for like the 10th time) so I gave up and the car sat at home untouched for 5 years. Fast forward to 2020 I just put the standard turbo back in it and managed to get it running and it is now re-registered. it is still running that original tune. I obviously want to put the 3076 back on and install (at the very least) an adjustable exhaust camgear and get it re-tuned but I thought I best do a compression test on it before I start. Results were pretty bad (could only do it while cold because FP is currently out of car pending replacement so couldn't warm car up first): CYL 1: 130 CYL 2: 90 CYL 3: 130 CYL 4: 80 CYL 5: 90 CYL 6: 95 My question is have I done damage to the engine by driving it around on the original motors tune (which had the 256 cams) on the new motor (which has the standard RB25 cams/cam gears)? Thanks

Hallam United this morning (the price of E85 has been stuck at THIS same price for months here) :

I've already tried that link. If you click buy it now/commit to buy it says the seller is away and doesn't say when/if they'll be back. I have also sent a message to them to no avail. I was posting on here in the hope that someone may have had one laying around they are not using, worth a shot

I am wanting to buy one of the Turbotech manual boost controllers as I am struggling to find them anywhere online. Let me know if you have one for sale please.

I am after a fabricator in Melbourne to make a dump pipe to fit my GT3076 turbo which has the Garrett 5 bolt rear on it. (The annoying thing is I used to have one back when I was running this turbo 7-8 years ago but it has since gone missing, I suspect it got thrown out with hard rubbish) I have looked everywhere online to purchase one pre-made but all I can find is the dump pipes that fit the standard 6 bolt rear... Have also tried the WTB section to no avail. Thanks

I am wanting to buy a 3inch 5 bolt dump pipe for my GT3076 turbo, preferably a split dump where the wastegate gasses meet the pipe further down. Alternatively If someone is able to fabricate one please let me know as well Car: R33 GTS-T Location: Melbourne SE

Thanks GeeDog for taking the time to reply and take photos. Good news, I actually managed to find a pair of the guard liners off a mate so I am all good now, thanks anyway I really appreciate it!

Thanks GeeDog

Just wanted to give an update on this in case anyone else has a broken bolt in the same spot. The Thread Doctor in Melbourne came out and got the broken bolt out. He did a fantastic job and at a fair price.

I am needing both plastic arch liners (passenger and drivers side) for the front wheel arches, as I need them fitted for a road worthy. I would prefer to buy them but given how rare they are to come accross if someone was willing to lend them to me just for the road worthy (for a slab or something) that would be much appreciated also. Car: R33 GTS-T series 2. Location: Melbourne SE. Thanks, Brent

I am needing both plastic arch liners (passenger and drivers side) for the front wheel arches, as I need them fitted for a road worthy. I would prefer to buy them but given how rare they are to come accross if someone was willing to lend them to me just for the road worthy (for a slab or something) that would be much appreciated also. Car: R33 GTS-T series 2. Location: Melbourne SE. Thanks, Brent

I wouldn't say I am that confident in extracting broken bolts. I have taken the plenum off before, was a bit of a pain getting to those bolts underneath, but if it has to be removed again then so be it. One other thought, would a mobile thread doctor possibly have the right tools to get to it?

I seem to have a little bit of space there once I push some of the wiring etc out of the way. I took a photo and circled the bolt in question. I might look into one of those right angle drill attachments off eBay. The only thing is the broken bolt is not smooth and a bit jagged. Thanks for your help