mosoto

Looks like the fibreglass took the worst of it. Shame you don't have the stockie to slap back on for the interim!!!!

No, but coasting in Neutral is also considered unsafe. Coasting with the clutch in is only going to wear out the thrust bearing faster but not impact on a manual tranny

No probs m8. I think you will also find broken belt = Alt light. The PS belt drives the alternator hence I don't think you'll have a problem with the Alt once you replace the belt. You might need to give your battery a bit of a charge though.

2003_belts.pdf

Your First mistake right there. You want to kill your transmission, carry on coasting in neutral. As for the Powers steering............Do you still have a belt on the pulley?

My local Autopro can get it in whenever I ask him to as they are an outlet for GW.

You read that out of context. They will be wasting money if they can buy the same oil for $40-$60 less. Would you buy 5L of 300v for $140 at Autopro if supercheap had it for $80, I think probably not Sougi >= 300v

To quote a tried & true saying: "Never judge a book by it's cover". Too many of you are wasting your money on brand name oils like Motul & Royal purple. These are great oils, I'm not argueing that fact BUT the Sougi S6000 really is as good if not possibly better. It is actually a true group V full synthetic and a true gem of a find (thanks Birds ). Guys save yourself $40-$50 and try the Sougi with a decent filter like a K&N HP-1008 for the V35 and you'll find no difference other than money in the bank.

As per 1st link for those who don't want to search.

Interesting that mine is a timed press (10sec) and not just a quick press, albeit that I've only used it once at a DT day. It's possible I already have the KP technologies FM20 module installed.

http://g35driver.com/forums/drivetrain/297...on-control.html http://g35driver.com/forums/drivetrain/219...g-vdc-real.html http://www.southfloridaracing.com/forums/s...ead.php?t=34456

In the owners manual: The VDC system uses an Active Brake Limited Slip (ABLS) function to improve vehicle traction. The ABLS system works when one of the driving wheels is spinning on a slippery surface. The ABLS system brakes the spinning wheel, which distributes the driving power to the other drive wheel. If the vehicle is operated with the VDC system turned off, all VDC system and TCS functions will be turned off. The ABLS system and ABS will still operate with the VDC system off. If the ABLS system or ABS is activated, the SLIP indicator light will blink and you may hear a clunk noise and/or feel a pulsation in the brake pedal. This is normal and is not an indication of a malfunction.

There's two stages to the OFF button I think. First is temp off where VDC will cut in if you start to get seriously "out of shape" not if you just break traction. stage two is Completely off where you have to hold the button in longer (or something along those lines). Either way the VDC comes back on after a restart. You'll need the module linked above if you want to have it remain off all the time

VDC never completely turns off, it's more a "dummy down" button. The kit that overrides the VDC is here: http://www.kptechnologies.com/products.php#/4 Note: turning off VDC whether permantly or temporarily may void your insurance in the event of a claim.

You may have spied a part photo showing the right side of a late model dual intake. In all my trolling I've never seen an early model with the inlet on the RHS. Curious as to why you'd want this?

you wont get 285 on the front. What tyre sizes do you have on there now?

I've got 285 on the rear on 10.5" rims and I could even go up to 295 to keep the tyre dead square with the rim. You could go 295 easily if you have 11" rims which would make sense if you want to avoid the slightly stretched look. I have 255's on the front. 265 would be wide enough depending on rim size. be aware that the VDC is set up for the coupe staggered wheel fitment. You'll have to adjust the tyre aspect ratio if you want to keep the same width all round. http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html Standard tyre fitment is 225/45/18 & 245/45/18.

Best and 1st handling mod you should make to the V. better brake fluid will go a long way to preventing fade under high temps. Your current fluid has probably been cooked hence poor feel etc.

before you shell out your hard earned chasing the worst case scenario, consider giving them a light skim with some wet and dry then a clean with brake cleaner. You may find some pad resin has been left on the disk surface from poor braking habits. This happens when the foot is left on the pedal when the brakes are very hot. If this doesn't cure it then they may need a machine skim. There are plenty of mobile brake mechanics that can do this without removing the disks.

Personally & performance aside, I think the 36 is more a grandads car than the 35. I may look just fine driving a 36 but I think the 35 is the nicer shape and is aging quite gracefully. Mine is an 03 coupe and I still get people thinking it's a new car. I certainly wouldn't say no if someone gave me a 36 tho

I could have sworn you had written 9.5/10.5 sorry My specs will not be pertinent to your original post but here they are anyway. F - 20x9.5 et22, R - 20x10.5 et22 Yokohama Advan 255/30 & 285/30

About 2mm closer to the guard than mine

Yeah, and the TS version is like $6k, seriously why bother?

http://www.350zmod.com/Jenvey-Individual-T...tb-350z-g35.htm Unfortunately the cost to power gains ratio is far higher than FI

They do look a little small. I'm sure the Beemer M3 quads are larger, might want to use them as a reference.