no_name

gone.

now with 12 months rego!!!

note price drop. $18000 NEG

im not thinking of taking any of the nice parts out at this point. il keeping waiting for the right person who wants the whole nicely integrated package. thanks for asking,

At last here are some images of the car itself, as you can see its clean and the condition is very good. for the rest of the images follow the link http://www.flickr.com/photos/12808493@N00/

yeah. ive got some maps for z32 and 2530. no quite that spec but its a hell of a lot better than the planejane stock powerfc maps. il attach them tonite as xls's. ive tuned SR20 with 2530 and gt-rs with various injector sizes aswell. several rb25 maps in various states. and 4 or 5 rb26 maps aswell in various states of tune with diferent turbos and fuel systems. ok. a few questions. - is your fuel pressure set correctly ? - is your ignition timing set ? - what cams are you using? bare in mind these maps will get you into the ballpark as goes fuel map settings and full load ignition.

it would be worth spending $100 and doing a few dyno runs to see whats going on. dont bother running all the way to the redline until youve got it sorted. ive seen several rb26's killed on the dyno by doing repeated redline runs with lean mixtures. a quick run to 5000rpm will tell you everything you need to know. as soon as anything looks or sounds unusual abort the run. check the AFR and make sure its reasonable. IMHO its between 11 and 12 to 1 under boosted load. also - every now and then one of the crank angle sensors will get jittery so have them run a timing light to make sure your timing is stable and correctly set. a good workshop will have a fuel pressure guage aswell. check the rail pressure during the run to make sure the pump is keeping up. also make sure the correct pressure is there at idle otherwise there is no point as your whole fuel map will be offset once it come out of closed loop. only then once you have established that do you really know whats going on.

ive been running the spitfires for years. the car NEVER misfires now. i strugled with a persistant misfire and changed everything up_circuit from the sparkplugs. tried iridiums and platinums and copper without much luck. now i run the spitfires with a standard plug gap upto 1.2 bar without hiccup. i think most targa cars run spitfires now too. they just seem to work better. -- the whole story -- way back when i first got my skyline circa 2000 i decided that there was power to be had. bought an rsr front pipe and 3" cat and got lucky with justjap having a nice 3" catback. everything had nice big 3" flanges too. and i think i must have gotten one of the first AVO frontmounts. this setup ran quite nicely. i changed the stock filter for a k&n and as usual this results in a little bit more boost. the midrange was wonderful. as soon as it went through 400rpm it just died - sounded like it only had one sparkplug. just that tiny 2psi more just killed it. firstly i tried denso iridium plugs. these did definitely help a bit - but it didnt entirely cure the problem. and i wasnt going to actually turn down the boost cause the midrange was like entering into a tractor pull everytime. at this stage the AFR was still under 11:1 so i decided the tune could be to blame as i was on the stock computer. ( with the denso plugs we found that reducing the gap wasnt a major contributor to clearing up the misfire - a small improvement from 1.1 down to 0.8 ) IMHO the iridium plugs do burn better than others. in the series one engines there is another piece of the ignition circuit on the tappet cover which can also be problematic. if you can lay your hands on a spare then try swapping this out. in my case it didnt help. in retrospect i should have cleaned the coilpacks properly at this stage. clean the plugs thoroughly - no fancy silicon fluids and whatnot. get them to work properly first and then seal them up with that. dry kitchen towel is good to clean the rubber boots - though should be food quality clean - and get the dry and clean. a little solvent to hep get the grime off them helps( i think i used a drop of wd40 to help loosen the crud ). if you have clean connections to the packs and everything is clean and it still misfires then u more than likely have a marginal coilpack in there. i tried to check them with a multimeter to see if there was one which was different in any way but mine were all identical. i was hanging out at justjap one afternoon when a shipment came in - and in the scrum for the good new parts i came out with a set of spitfires. its a long time ago but i think i was still on the stock computer. amazing - as i was used to the car coughing and farting and all of sudden it ran clear all the way to the redline. soon after i got my powerfc. ( silly me - i paid extra for the claimed "localised" version - 6 months of testing in local conditions my arse ) also got lucky on the yahoo auctions in japan and got a boost control kit. justjap are involved in the preparation of qutie a few skylines for the targa tasmania. they seem to prefer using spitfires in the racecars. in another justjap wrestling match i got an hks2530. so i was comfortable to run over 12psi without fetching the exhaust wheel out of the cat. with this i ran over 1.2bar on the dyno at c&v without misfire problems. ran out of injectors though as i hit 100% duty cycle at 5000rpm : basicly after the spitfires went in ive become indifferent to the plugs because they were never a factor anymore. no matter what further mods went in - the spark was always there. boost and mixture could not put the flame out.

some addition images for the curious. there are the curreny AFR settings / boost curve and value and the kw output. the power output of 215 is only at 6000 because these runs were to make sure the AFR was sane and the knock was ok. i didnt want to flog the poor car to death on the dyno. http://www.flickr.com/photos/12808493@N00/with/114044230/ these are old images and are from before the powerfc integrated boost control kit was used - as u can tell from the boost curve. there should be 3 images there sofar showing boost / power / afr lemme know if this link doesnt work, enjoy

for sale - ecr33 1995 91096kms black - stock bodywork - stock interior - all origional paint bilstein suspension - lowered slightly. manual transmission some nolathane bushes on the front suspension 17" wheels 225 front 255 rear z32 afm k&n filter spitfire coils nismo fuel pump powerfc with boost control kit trust plum back bov avo frontmount intercooler 6 puck brass clutch hks 2530 - with hks actuator and hks dump pipe rsr front pipe - proper 3" cat momo 3" stainless catback 3" flanges all the way car has been maintained since purchase by autosport engineering and justjap. service intervals were 5000km. for a while it ran on motul 300v and now its on mobil one. puralator oil filters used. if ud like to BYO greenslip and rego then let me know and we can adjust the price. the current state of tune gives 215 kw at 6000rpm - which is where the graph ends afr is set to 11.5 and the boost on those runs was 15.5 psi i willl post some pics if ur interested and i have some dyno printouts someplace. $18000 neg

if the cams are still there let me know.

i believe what i said is that i have a spare ecu. but im not driving it out to you. neither am i going throught the hassle of posting it. u will need to come to me and fetch it. but i am withdrawing the offer. u can get it elsewhere.

ok. ok. i have one somewhere. but im very lazy so u gonna haveto fetch it if u want it.

ive known a few powerFC's to hunt at idle. mine is good with a Z32 AFM. the fuel maps should be very close to the 100 setting for a car with stock cams. the higher the number the richer so if your car is cammed then add a bit more fuel to stabilise it. check the temperature compensation. sometimes if the idle is rich and the temp compensation kicks in the idle deteriorates. check the temperature the engine is running at. (see above) rb25 should idle with 15 degrees timing. if i recolect. check this too in the ignition map. check what the timing is with a light. if the reading on the crankisnt the one on the map then you should correct this. check the fuel cut recovery points and idle speed. pawL.

im guessing that what u want to know is how much can u do without replacing engine internals. i run 1.1bar daily without any ill effects. that is on an internally stock 70000km old engine. - provided there is no detonation. - mixture is good to keep the heat down. - no excessive RPM is used as wear increases dramaticly. keep to the factory 7000rpm limit. and try not to be on it all the time as there is a nice spread of power to use. stock GTR cast pistons will take 450rwkw. as demonstrated by mario - im not sure how long he ran at this level or what the internals looked like afterwards. im guessing the the rb25 piston may not be as strong. if your combustion is under control bearings become a concern. 350rwkw can hurt gtr bearings quite quickly. quite a number of people seem to be running 250rwkw without and drama daily. with careful tuning maybe 300. but dont expect the engine to last forever. pawL.

i would like to do a half day as the car needs a shake down with all the new bits fitted. who do i speak to? pawL.

matt, i maxed out the stock rb25 afm and didnt persue the tuning any further as i didnt want to compromise on the part throttle tuning. i havent run the z32 hard yet cause ive had a whole bunch of small propbelms with the car. ive also recently started popping hoses off as ive raised the boost. hopfully next week il try it again with decent boost. ive seen 4.5 though with the z32 meter.

once you hit 5.1v i wouldnt recomend trying to tune further. basicly the ecu has no idea where it is. could be 13psi or maybe it could be 28psi. bad idea. as you go over 5.1 volt you get the lean out / over advance condition which makes engines go bang. a safc can convert to z32 afm. never done it myself but the manual says its possible. also seems like a bad idea as the stock maps have no good points to be intercepted to. hks 2530/35/40 are very nice. call around and see if any wreckers have any? for the cost of mangling a vg30 or hi-flowing you may as well spend the extra few hundred and get an hks. going rate is about $2000 i think. at 215rwkw at 6000rpm i had a duty cycle of 90% on the stock injectors and an afr of 11.5 ignition timing was about 16 degrees - other cars may differ though. if i remember right the afm was maxed out for a while. these numbers were achieved at hybrid and thier dyno seems reasoably accurate. i like thier dyno for tuning cause there is no wheelspin clouding the readings.

i was running a standard rb25 afm on my car. the decision to change came because the stock one was hitting 5.1volt in the midrange. fortunalely i had a powerfc so i could do the change quite easily. i swopped the afm and altered the setting inthe powerfc. after which it ran perfectly. no problems. obviously it exposed more of the powerfc map and those sections needed some work. wasnt really rocket science to add in the next 2 rows though. now im able to tune the topend with the z32 showing about 4.5 volt by 5500rpm. powerfc owners may have noticed that the stock afm will only expose up o L16 on the map. the Z32 will show upto L18 and the VH41 will expose the whole map. i really dont know about the full remap scenario. i flicked the switch and it worked first time. basicly there is not benefit unless you have maxed out the old one. i didnt get an exact number but its near the 200kw mark that the old one runs out. seems to me to be more that the stock turbo can push so dont worry unless you upgrade. anonymous.