sav man

Cause I want to run Classic GT and Targa are now running with the VIN to determen the build date. That's why there are now cars spread over different classes. I'm guessing they don't want classic being flooded with late 80's japanese cars, so they've made it harder

So first steps have been taken for Targa next year. I now have a 1989 shell ready for classic. Just need to cage it and touch the paint up haha

I'll dig some photo's up. But I used the height of the oil return for the RB26 but put it just infront of the cylinder 1 webbing on the hot side. The line just runs directly to the cam cover to allow the internal baffles to separate any oil and air. Then the breaters from the cover go to the catch can. The root cause of most of RB oil problems is there is no external crank breather. so the oil drain holes get used instead, which stops them working as drains. L-seriers and SR engines have external breathers, so we copied that idea

Have a look at putting a crank breather on the car. I drilled a hole in my block and run a -10 line to my cam cover, takes the pressure out of the sump and allows the oil to drain back through the factory drain holes. I also did it to a mates car and it went from filling 2x 3l catch cans in a couple of laps to only putting e85 residue in the catch can. Also worth getting RB26 cam covers (if you can find them), they separate the air/oil heaps better then 20/25 Drain from the catch can to the sump won't work unless you have a pump on the catch can.

The 4.6 from the Sentra is pretty much just a bolt in item. The front bolts have big bushes like a GTR, but I just got some solid bushes turned up so it would mount as standard. I've got a Nismo Pro 2 way, but you can use the crownwheel and pinion on the standard centre. 5th is too tall to pull, so the shorter diff will help. E85 also wakes them up a bit (and drops 200c from the EGT), the fuel usage isn't as dramatic as people make out. Might be worth looking into a GTR fuel tank, they are 73l and plastic, I run one in mine.

I've got a 4.6:1 diff in my car. Depending on wheel size you should be able to get 270-280kph. With a 4.3:1 at Phillip island I was able to pull 260 kph and that's one of the biggest straights in Aus. I havn't run with the Phillip Island with the 4.6.

I run Penske in my Gtst, but it took a bit of mucking around the get the valving right. 450lb front and 375lb rear works for me. You can run a 4.6:1 diff out of a sentra that will mask the lag. But keeping a small turbo and running E85 is really the only way to minimise the lag wihout opening the engine

The head has to be off the engine and cams removed, but yes i've had head skimmed with the valves still in it.

I was going to go down that path, even have a inlet gasket to make a manifold adaptor. But Targa rules changed again, so 26 crank and rods and a slight bore to bring to to just under 2.2l. Swap the RB20 highflow for a Neo highflow

I finally got round the pulling the engine down. The head had barely been marked, so that's a win. The bottom end is quire the mess though. Pretty sure I found that the broken rod bolt, looks like a clean brake compared to the rest of the mangled mess

Yeah it was pretty uneventful from the inside. I assumed i'd melted a piston, but my mates informed me when I got towed back in that there was a loud bang and there was bits all over the track. The bottom end is stock crank and rods, arp rod bolts and ross pistons. I've been using those rods since 2011, so they have done alot of work and I think i put the rod bolts in around 2012.

I ran last weekend at the Symmons Plains 60th annaverary meet. Unfortunately after a good run the engine decided to throw a rod. I've got the engine out but havn't pulled the sump off yet, I suspect a rod bolt has failed as it had oil pressure when it failed. Time to build the 2.2 These were on the cross member

I found it on spares box. from what i read everyone else hacks up their gtr cradle so the walbro one will work. I couldn't find anywhere that sold the std Nissan one

So after a couple of years of doing nothing i've started giving the old girl some love again. The goal is to build a 2.2l sroker and run it in classic gt in Targa 2022. I have replaced the Racepak dash with a motec C125. The motec is in a different leage as far as what it can do and how well the i2 software works to view the logs. I found a fuel sock that would fit propery in the factory pump bracket, hopfully this will stop the car eating fuel pumps. Also fitted a rain light to keep cams happy. I had to put new seatbelts in to replace the perfectly good but out of dates ones. I'll be running the car at the 60th anniversary meeting for Symmons Plains on Oct 24-25. Still some work to do on the car before then, but it will be good to have it up to date and running again.

I'm after a complied stright R32 gtst shell, but it needs to be from 1989.

I tried to PM you, but forum said no

Seems to be a baby 25 NEO head. Most of the parts are common between them going off Nissan Fast New classic GT rules have opened up a world of possibilities

Bumping this thread up again. Anyone know where I would be able to find a RB20 NEO, I really only want the head but will take a complete engine if avaliable.

I am trying too hunt down a RB20DE NEO motor. From what I have read these cars came out with them: -STAGEA WHC34 - RB20DE NEO (1997-1998) -LAUREL HC35 - RB20DE NEO (1997-1998) -Laurel C35, S3 RB20DE NEO 1999 -SKYLINE R34, RB20DE NEO 1999 Wondering if anyone is selling or knows someone who is selling this particular motor, any help would be appreciated.

A Dunlop DZ03 or Yoki A050 would be far superior wet and dry, and they both go up to 295 wide. Nengun must be making some sweet sweet profit, as they retail closer to $600ea in Aus

I didn't think SAU needed to invaded by LS power haha. Skyline isn't going anywhere and will still be updated here https://www.facebook.com/crestracecraft/

I haven't got a thread on it, just on my racing facebook page. The mod list is cage, seats, shocks so not a lot to report on haha

Yep Subie is gone, replaced with a 2010 Corvette ZR1

Thought I better give an update. I've added R34 GT-R rims onto the car with Dunlop 265's, they only just fit but it's made a big difference to grip. The last event for the year was the Poatina Mountain Race, we finished 2nd overall to a 360awkw R34 GT-R which wasn't too bad. Especially when rally safe said we were 20km/h down on his top speed. Plans for 2018 is for some circuit work and maybe some more Mountain Motorsports events. I want to have a crack at the Targa Championship in the Corvette, so probably less events in the Skyline

So I should probably update from the past 2 rallies. The Snowy River sprint was stinking hot, we ended up with 60 deg cabin tempatures. Unfortunatly we did the weekend on 10psi of boost, as the boost solenoid failed. But we still set top 3 times most of the weekend with no power. Luckely for us the event got cut short because of bushfires, the heat had also killed the alternator I left the car in melb for 3 weeks between Snowy River and GTR. When I picked it up I replaced the alt and solenoid. GTR was a better rally. I had a new nav so we lost a fair bit of time in the morning getting up to speed with each other. But by the end of the event we were getting stage wins. We ended up finishing 2nd in the championship, which I can't really complain about since the car was temperamental for most of the year.