sav man

They are pretty different. They are all about low down torque and corner speed compared to a skyline, chassis development has come a long way in 20 years. Over a stage the Subie would be faster I recon

I think the 35's will struggle with the GT4 regs and the heavy service restrictions this year. I will be interested to see how fast Quinny is in his Lambo. I will be sporting some Nissan though, I'm running R34 GT-R Nothing wrong with 747's

do you still have these?

Thought it was time to bump this thread up. The 25th Targa Tasmania is only 3 weeks away now and it looks like a big field. I'm giving the Skyline a rest this year and moving over to the dark side. I'm going to be running Dad's old Subie in the new GT4 class. Is anyone else running or coming down for a look?

I'm after a pair of R34 GTR rims, paint condition doesn't matter too much (going on a race car), just want the rims to be straight

I had 245/45/18 fitted to the front of my car by mistake and still had 245/40/18 on the rear. The car hated life, it shuddered all the time and the 4wd light kept coming on. Tyre place fixed it up pretty quick and got 245/40/18 all around and it fixed the problem. I only used the car for town work while I was waiting for the correct tyres

Their facebook page had a short clip of them pulling the Lotus sign down last night. So it's looking pretty likely that they are being re-branded asap

I ran a Lithium for a few years, I just converted back to a sealed battery as I needed one ASAP and was being povo. They hate the cold. On cold Targa mornings they appear to go dead flat, but come back to life once they have some load on them. I ended up going to the car of a cold morning and turning the lights on for a few mins so I could start the car. You will want to keep the car on a trickle charger too, as once they go below a voltage level they never come back to life. I took the life out of mine when my alternator failed and I drained the battery a few times in a day. I ran the 550ca from here http://www.tuningworx.com/#!wwwlithiumaxcomau/sitepage_12

I was starting my tyres (Dunlop's) at 22psi cold at Phillip Island a few weeks ago, and I didn't have any problems

doubt it. Does AASA know how to use a bretho?

oh deer http://www.theaustralian.com.au/life/hours-of-lemons-controversy-some-cars-possibly-worth-more-than-1000/story-e6frg9zo-1227586840522

What happened overnight? According to natsoft the 31 only just started running today (a couple of hours after everyone else) some of my relies are in the Lancergini

I tested all the fuses, and they were fine. I've pulled the trans ecu out and I can't see any burn marks. But it could still be damaged. The starter was stuck on when the fire happend, so would would think the current would have been going through the trans ecu

I'll give that a crack. I thought there much have been another box somewhere

I checked fuses in kick panel (found some wonderful Japanese wiring in there) and in front of the battery. Are there more behind the battery? I recon I will need one.

Does the Fury let you customize the CAN bus?

I'm thinking that's probably the case. All the wires to the gearbox were melted together (drivers side just under the exhaust), so I would expect that something would have had to give and I didn't find any blown fuses. Can I just replace the trans ecu? or does it need to be paired to the box?

I recenty had a small fire which burnt a section of the gearbox loom. I've replaced the wires in the melted section and the car starts and runs (no trigger errors). But the manual mode on the gear box won't work and when it changes gears it feels like there is no ignition retard, so it tries to chirp every gear. I'm assuming the CAN wires aren't fixed properly. Where do all the wires from the gearbox originate from? Is there a pinout diagram for the 3 gearbox plugs. It would make testing the wires much easier if I know the location of the other end.

I've dropped mine out the bottom a few times and I found it pretty easy. What was so painful for you?

Here are some pics of back when I first did it

My car is the same as the outside (gloss white). But I did the a pillars and cage from the top of the a pillar forward matt black to stop refection.

Looks like a normal Excel racer now.

Was the GT-R too fast to get a number?

I did look into that option. But from a reliability point of view, the 20+ year old Nissan optical sensor is still used and likely to fail. For a road car I'd run the replacement CAS disk.

Subframe is all good. Must be the protective oil coating that it got in the early years. Block will be back from the machine shop by the end of the week, so I will be able to start assembling that on the weekend. I am ditching the Nissan optical CAS and going to a High Octane trigger kit. The RPM trace is pretty rough and wouldn't of been helping with reliability.