sav man

You were brave running M's at buller on a GTR. Have you tried the R2 compound? Soft is the only way to run a Tarmac car

I'm after a electric speed sendor for a RB25 gearbox. Does anyone have any?

Great. How much for the shifter? It should just be able to go in a 3kg post bag

Be worth a quote, I don't imagine it would be mega bucks to post

I'm in Launceston, Tasmania

I'm after a standard shifter for a RB25 gearbox. Not interested in short shifters

I'm after a stock RB25 gear shifter, and a RB25 gearbox speedo drive. Anyone have any?

18" tyres wear better than 17" tyres on a rally. The only geometry changes will be what ride height your car sits at, You need to make sure the suspension can use full compression without fouling on anything. There is a few R33 GT-R's running round with 18"'s on, so doubt there will be any problems, it's just going to come down to $$

I run a R33 pump on my car with no cooler, and the only time i've had problems is when I split feed hose to the pump. The other time I had a combination of shit on my belt and the belt being too lose, it didn't make any noise, just got heavy.

How much is the consult 3? does it give you info if it's a proper failure (ie descriptive text instead of a code number?

I'm looking for the airbag fault codes, but the link above doesn't work anymore. I can clear the fault fine, but it comes back every couple of days

It was a couple of years ago last time I used the dash2 software, but from memory setting up the voltage tables for the sensors was unbelievably hard. From memory the dash didn't read the true voltage and interpreted to it's own scale. Something that should have taken 30 mins to setup took hours. A dash that can read sensors via CAN from the ECU makes life a lots easier. I have all my sensors wired to the ECU can run via CAN to my dash. The only things wired straight into the dash are, brake switch and fuel level

Sell the dash2 and buy a Racepac IQ3, then hook it up to a CAN ready ECU (Haltech/Motec/Link). I haven't used the analsis software for the DL1, but if it's anything like the dash2 software I don't imagine it will be any good.

Does anyone know what the official weight is for the R32 Gtst, preferably with some doco to back it up? I've seen numbers from 1260kg to 1320kg

Back at work, so time for some sau The week was going so well until Saturday morning. The only issue I had to that point was a leaking end tank on my oil cooler, which I swapped over after the prologue. I had wound the boost back on the Friday night, as Pete had engine problems on the way into Strahan, and then pulled out the next morning. We took off from the start of Reece Dam and as soon as a grabbed 2nd gear the Alt warning light came on. I turned all the electrics off I could, and watched the battery gauge drop the whole way through the stage. I got out and checked the belt, connections, and fuse links at the end of the stage, but they were all fine. I drove another 2-300m and the car ran out of electricity. When we were sitting on the side of the road some local photographers that I happened to know drove past, and had jumper leads. We jump started the car, and the alt magically started working again. We caught up to the field at the lunch break, and Damo had a look at the alt to try and diagnose it. But nothing could be fixed in the time we had, so we set off for the next stage Natone. I took off from natone, and the alt light came on (it had been working fine for 2-2.5 hours), I turned everything off again and made it to the end of the stage. I did all the things Damo told me not to do (sprayed brake cleaner into the alt to try and clean it). The car ran out of power just before the next stage. We kept putting batteries in the car to get back to Strahan, and swapped the alt over. My alt was diagnosed with a faulty regulator. The new alt was less powerful (80a vs 120a), so I had to disconnect the passenger side of the heated windscreen to keep the battery charging for the next day. I started the next day full of sand in my vagina, and decided to have a good dip on the run home. We got some pretty good times in the wet, I was pretty pleased to finish the wet Strahan stage 3rd outright only 5 secs slower than Vandenburg. Liam and Larry deserve the result, they earnt it in the wet weather.

I am tipping a reliability race between Rickards and Glenney, with Captain Fathom just behind. Gtst showdown next year?

When will we see you down here again Ben?

I'm just giving the car a good check over this weekend, and have put all the bits for the rally safe in. Then I'm ready, did all the recce over the Easter long weekend

they need more gate

Looks like a have a small leak somewhere. But a good bleed fixed it for the moment. Just need to trace the leak now

yep, pm me your email address

They updated their site a couple of weeks ago. I had to reset my password to get in

I know the R series Skylines need the heater to full to bleed properly, as they have a valve to control the coolent flow. I've seen skylines turn their heater on after the system has been "bled" and have overheating problems cause a heap of coolent goes from the engine to the heaterbox. Things might have changed in the stag though. I'll redo it from dead cold and see how it goes. Scotty, do you still sell the coolent bypass kits?

Why nose down hill and not up hill? I thought youd want rad above the bleed point? I'm going to have a good look on the weekend

On the way to work this morning my M35 got hot. I waited for it to cool down, put it on a hill and topped up and bled the coolent system. The car was fine ideling for 15 mins, but when i drove up the road the temp needle started to go straight back up, so I parked it. I've only had it overheat once before when the plastic bleed tap failed (now have a metal ball valve). So I want to test the thermostat, but I've read that the VQ engines have multiple thermostats. Is this true? And if so where are they all?