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Everything posted by nemz
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i dont want to buy it.. as i already have an r32, but its worth about 16-17k to be fair thats what you should expect, that said very nice car!
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How Do I Fit 7x10" Speakers In The Back Of My R33?
nemz replied to R-SPEC's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
no need to cut holes, simply.. take the parcel shelf out, bolt everything into the parcel shelf making sure its in the right spot to have the magenets go into the holes so u can wire it up, then put the parcel shelf with the speakers mounted into it back into position, it works ive done it quik and easy and looks good, and u dont have to destroy anything, simply get platic spacers from any audio shop, autobahn, jb hi fi, strathfield they look like this -
all mirrors in my r32 vibrate with my stereo, the rearview with some basslines will also turn itself around:|
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How Do I Fit 7x10" Speakers In The Back Of My R33?
nemz replied to R-SPEC's topic in Car Audio & Electrical
just get some 7x10 spacers mount them onto ur parcel shelf, making sure the magnet will go through the 6" hole and u can put wires in then mount in speakers, easy u should have seen my dilema fitting 2 of these 15" babies into the boot of an r32 -
stupid question i know.... if your gonna spend so much money on a rb25det neo, why not get an rb26dett if your looking for power?or even go an rb30 bottom end with rb25 head? still quite cheap, ive seen ready built 30/25's sell on here for under 4k
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my brothers one was under the casing
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i already got them in http://www.audiopipe.co.uk/productdisplay....Name=TXX-AP15RD linkage to my sub
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dont have a clue brought then ages ago car does not get driven much
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just normal ngk's
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no i just ran the wire from my boot catch, the 2x bolts which hold the boot latch in strait to the female part of the rca in the amp, then plugged the rca's in
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the screw was through the top of the deck, and could be seen once opened in the slit where the disk is entered, what area are you from?
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only suggestion check all wiring is secure, maybe one of the wires inside the box is loose, or check your ground to monoblock is same size minimum as your power, not having a big enough ground will cause it to cut out, also check your rca cable, play with the ends of them and see if they cut out when you wriggle them, if its none of them may be... the devil is in your car
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its either this one or similar
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also what to look out when purchasing equipment power ratings can be very descieving as companies like pioneer sony etc throw on brandings like 400 watts or 350 watts which is peak power, all these ratings are false, as they cant run on peak power for more then about a second or 2 before they will blow, same as amps subs etc generaly with the most common brand name stuff like sony kenwood pioneer etc they speakers are usually about a quarter or less of what the peak is, so how can you make sure how powerful they really are? check for nominal power rating or continious power rating aka rms this is the best indicator of how much power they can handle, generally for an average system about 50watt rms will be more then enough for your 6"s and about 60+ should be nice for 6x9's, subs you want to have at least 300 watt rms or more to have enough kick with amps you need to be very careful as underpowering your speakers will cause sound clipping and damage you speakers, how do you know if you have sound clipping? you will hear when you crank up the volume, distortion and loss of certain sounds or a jerky inconsistant sound. how to make sure your amp can run your speakers? as mentioned before look at rms ratings not peak power, so if you have 2 sets of 60 watt rms speakers you will need a 4 channel amp which around 70 watt rms x 4 and just leave the gain down a little, with subs same again if you have a sub which is 400 watt rms you will need an amp which is say 350-500 watt rms to power it properly, you also need to keep an eye out for a thing called Ohms too, i beleive it is a rating of ristance/current, so how does this work? well most rms ratings are at 4Ohms for car speakers some times may be rated at 2 or 1 or even 8, basically easiest way to work this out is say something @ 4 Ohms is 500 watt rms, 2 Ohms will be double the value so will go upto 1000 watt rms @ 2Ohm, and 2000 watt at 1Ohm and if it went upto 8Ohms would be 250 watt rms BE CAREFUL!! not everything can run @ any ohms some amps may only be able to do 4Ohm and some may be able to do anything you want safely so make sure the ohms rating and power ratings all match up before you purchase your product as poor product selection will resualt in bad sound and possibly speaker damage as for wiring, always make sure you rca's and speaker wires are not near your power cable, your ground wires always need to be either same size or larger then your power wire for general systems your single 8awg wire will be enough to run 1 or 2 amps under about 300 watt rms each, as you start getting bigger you need to look at 4awg to 0awg which is the fattest, and remember make sure you ground is bigger then the power!! example if you have 8guage wire from engine to amp you will need at least 8 guage as a ground to the amp, or even better 4 guage! if any one has any questions or did not quite understand please feel free to ask, and if any one disagree's on what i have said, i am not a professional, just what i have learnt in the last few years wasting on money on audio equip and installing thanks for reading hope i helped
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if you want equipment stuff i would suggest decks - alpine kenwood jvc coax's/splits mtx kicker earthquake bostons alpine subs audiobahn mtx alpine earthquake kicker amps earthquake alpine kenwood soundstorm jbl stuff i have had problems with - rockford fosgate power series 6.5 " coax, there top of the range coax's 2 sets - pioneer deck + pioneer speakers + pioneer mono block - sony.. only thing that compares to pioneer for cheaply made china crap at overly expensive prices.. but her it looks pretty - fusion subs 1 tore a surround and another just stopped working - pyle mono block (was great while it worked but shorted out very easy) - cadence rca cables, they are crap, look awsome but really poor workmanship, friend also had problems with his cadence amp cutting out - boss audio subs, haha what a laugh u buy them to blow them up just for something to do any way i hope i helped some people with there descisions
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just pull it apart and check for any overly tight screws, did u buy it off ebay? as i know same thing happened strait out of the box with one my brother brought, som no name brand, had a screw stopping the disk going in he simply removed it and everything worked
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after months of purchasing new audio equipment, wires re wiring, going through hell to stop that annoying whine, which never occured when i had a small system set up, i narrowed it down to 1 thing, my rca cables, how to solve it in my case, 2 things have worked 1st, my big fat cadence cables i ran 6x wires from an earth from the back of my boot, to each of my 6x rca head where it plugs into the amp i edited a pic of an rca which u can view if u dont get what i mean or the second thing i also tried a very thin rca home av cable i got from dick smiths as one of my cadence cables the connection messed up because of there dodgy crap soldering job on the internals, yes dont buy these rca's even my other 2 sets loose connectivity some times and speakers cut out!! but yeah back to the point with the thin wire which dosnt let through as much signal dosnt seem to let through engine noise and didnt need to earth it like the cadence so yeh hope this may help a few people
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hahah yeh i have my new body kit on its way here now finally completed and my car is gone till jan 10th im spewing man, i cant beleive my car got impounded for a measly little chirpy into second gear.. and yeah all that gear did go in list of it goes 1x 1 farad capacitor(soon to have an extra 4 farad for sub amp) 1x earthquake 900.5 amp for speakers 1x lanzar 4000 watt mxa 282 amp 2 channel sub amp(if you dont know who lanzar is, its made in the usa by boston acoustics) 2x audiopipe 1000 watt rms 15" dual 2.5 inch voice coil subs the lanzar amp takes up the whole length of the back of the seat, and earthquake which is pictured as the blue amp in that pic takes up the rhs and the box is a shall box which takes up the whole height of my boot and almost width and lenght so yeh when you open all you can see is system and no floor, it was a bit messy but will re wire and stuff to make it look better when i get the car back speakers - earthquake 400 watt 5x7 in doors with tweeters - earthquake 600 watt 6.5" splits in rear deck - pioneer deh-p5750mp 3x 5v pre out with full sub control + multiple amp control mp3,wma etc remote wires dual 4 guage wires with gold plated terminal 100 amp fuse 3x cadence rca's (i wouldnt recomend these im changing very soon) 12 guage oxygen sealed speaker wires all around dB rating? not sure yet but will try find out some time soon
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pics will be delayed my car just got impounded for doing a "burnout", i just chirped into second gear doing like 30km/h.. any way will have to wait 3 months sorry guys
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just went and got a box from audiobahn for 150$ fits in perfect will try get pics
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also secondly, trying to get the boss amp to run all your speakers will stress it alot, you can buy a response 2 channel sub amp from either jaycar or ebay for fairly cheap which is something like 2x 350 watt rms @ 4Ohm which should be fine for you set up and would give your subs alot of extra kick, and i just read you had 0awg to 8awg through a splitter thats fine
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so your saying i should make 2x 15" holes in my bootlid and mount them in? genious!! now serious help please, i know its a bit ridiculous but i had 2x 12" alum 1000 watt rms subs and i duno... just didnt have the deep low rumble i like, i know it will fit all i wanted to know was if any body knew any boxes which would fit strait in, to try make life easier for me before i go to the effort to make one myself or get one custom made depending on how lazy im feeling
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yeah i have an earthquake 900.5 and a 2000 watt rms 2 chanel amp which is huge which i have to fit aswell will be fun too much bass already with just the one sub, but i have 2 so may aswell kill my cars performance lol
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i have found an easy solution which should work, which is quite simple, simply attach a small wire to the rca's where they plug into the amp, if your not sure what i mean, the lil metal tip which goes in her hole!! then ground them, does not seem to matter if they all grounded together, solved my problem