910trx

if you do quite lengthy driving at higher speeds cruise controll is a must it eliminates (well reduces) small fluctuations in the throttle which chew up fuel like twitches of the foot, and when you speed up to over 100 then back off and speed up again, it all helps + it prevents fatigue also when accelerating (mostly in more underpowered na cars but the principle remains) if you are accelerating sometimes it is better to feed in throttle rather than planting it, open throttle means more fuel and more air but the engine can only use so much + it avoids overfueling and suffocating the engine giving better accelleration some of these are obvious but there are lots of people who are completely oblivious to how to get the most out of all their cars both in economy and performance.

my first car was a coupe! a ford laser KA 2 door `82 with the big block 1.5L seriosly $35k + gov grant of $14k $49K to spend on (assuming) your first home. get a family member to live in it for a year or two and give you just enough rent to cover mortgage and rates then rent it out on the market for full rent price or have a bachellor pad at the age of 19 i wish i has $35k to spend on anything let alone a first car - somehow i dont believe you actually have this amount, however this is derrived by a quick squiz of bank propaganda with how much you currently earn and how much you can afford to pay back each week. hey if you actually have $35k to spend then i'm very jelous and i hate you for it but i also believe your nose has grown a few inches at the start of the post...

that is posted as one of my you tube faves LOL

thanks i'll look into getting a newie then ok and love the avatar - its of one of those ACA hoon busts where someone wacked his GF in the drivers seat to save his lisence - hilarious

not really - i own a stagea try explaining that!

i have a stagea with tip tronic on wheel and the detents to shift with the leaver (+ or -). personally i find the wheel buttons to be useless and there is a delay in the shift. i prefer using the actual selector in the console i always owned a manual car with heavy clutches and the like (still do). but i got the s2 over the s1 stagea because of the shifting options and because the fiance only drives an auto on a hills run where you ride the boost and drive 80% (which is still damn fast) it is nice to just flick the leaver to change gears and not do accidental shift to 1st or "n" like in average autos which leave you fumbeling half way through a corner trying to look at the leaver and determine wft you just did - although you can still do the 2, 3, D, if you wish if you wanted to push it and involve yourself in the driving experience then manual is definately the way to go. but sometimes this is just not practical for everyday use, just those select tomes you drive 100% which realistically should only be on a track... saving that, having an auto is handy - just put your foot down and the car will figure it out, long drives or heavy traffic are no fuss, car can be driven by anyone - i usually just leave it in "d" for drag racing mode and i find it doesn't matter i love manuals and prefer them to a sloshamatic anyday, but the tip tronic is a good halfway point. best to put your bum in the seat and try yourself.

repost sorry

no the screen shot was after i moved the laptop inside to connect to the net and disconnected from ecu. i wasn't sure of the scale of the o2 sensor being V (volts i assimed) i wasn't aware it had volts or was supposed to read resistance (ohms), so stuck it up to hopefully trigger someone to look at it. at the moment on cruise it is sitting at 0.01v to nothing i'm assuming its dead - casual drivin gets 350km to a 60L tank and would like to see a slight improvement i just wanted a bit more understanding before i purchase something i may not need

my local nissan dealer wouldn't even change my oil!

well i took ot for a long drive and the O2 feedback showed a voltage < 3V at startup at cold and reduced to 0 over a 20 minuite casual drive with accel being provided by cruise controll and no stops i think its shagged, getting a 0V reading has done it for me

so rather than driving hard i should go for a long smooth drive and get a voltage reading correct?

Already posted in the stickied O2 sensor section however this is rather urgent, hoping on a main page it will get a bit more exposure. curious i stuck the cable in the com port of the stagea last night unfortunately i have not been able to stick the cable in within 60 starts of the lst check engine light so i cant be too sure of the problem. i'm thinking my o2 sensor is stuffed the o2 sensor was reading 0.2 to 0.3 V (volts?) on a warm engine after start up after continuous loops around 2 roundabouts boosting it hard for about 5 mins i returned home the guage was stationalry, reading 0.02 V is this a sign that my 02 sensor is shagged? i'm not sure on what one should read and i dont want to go through the hard slog of country f**k wits to try and get one if its ok. any ideas of theories? Reduced: 93% of original size [ 1024 x 640 ] - Click to view full image

curious i stuck the cable in the com port of the stagea last night unfortunately i have not been able to stick the cable in within 60 starts of the lst check engine light so i cant be too sure of the problem. i'm thinking my o2 sensor is stuffed the o2 sensor was reading 0.2 to 0.3 V (volts?) on a warm engine after start up after continuous loops around 2 roundabouts boosting it hard for about 5 mins i returned home the guage was stationalry, reading 0.02 V is this a sign that my 02 sensor is shagged? i'm not sure on what one should read and i dont want to go through the hard slog of country f**k wits to try and get one if its ok. any ideas of theories?

bf2 fsx thats all i have or all i play willing to source cs 1.6 if it comes down to that

keen on bf2 although may be rusty for a few rounds or grid although never played it - want to try it i'm capped with my DL's atm so hafta wait till 7th of this month to get some bandwidth back 64kps is like torture from +1500! i dont have CS 1.6 though - it is available through a torrent somewhere with a crack that will let you play> used to play 1.3 years back in my uni days but gone of cs since - too limited

put your passenger window dorn to hear it spool

gone off BF2 singe i broke my gaming headset (gaming while drunk is dangerous) now its Flight Sim X + Acceleration multiplayer servers with a bot in the tower is a winner playing properly is harder than taking off at random and swooping taxiing traffic computer handles the flat out graphics no worries

check your fault codes i have just bought a consult port and software which arrived today to resolve all current and future CEL issues Hopefully its woth the venture replacing parts at random is a bit of a hit and miss affair

just take it elsewhere. if they say they will all need to be done - then i'd agree or you can just do as above and live with a slight colour difference

yeah i found that one, but it seems it works for the r33 or series one stagea - i got the s2 (r34) and one bloke posted that there was a difference between them (sorry i should have stated before) i did find a part number for it however it is just a part number - dunno if it was genuine, ngk, bosch - it is in the mechanics hands now anyway - if i can get it off of them I'll post up - just wanted to save some time and research for them.

i know exactly how you feel the nissan dealer here wouldn't touch it because it is import - i said its basically the same engine as an r34 and you service them! - no they are imports - but what about aussie delivered ones (assume there were some) - oh oh ok we will look into it - no call back 3 days later... aaarg hijacked! sorry part number 22690-AA007 is the part mumber for the s2 o2 sensor - is this a genuine nissan part number? anyone know an ngk equiv or something?

awesome info - i've just been on the hunt for these exact specs! i'll give them to my mechanic tonight when i drop off my car cheers heaps! Dan

lol yeah like above, i'm deferring the "big" cost jobs till i have the mates and resources to do it myself thought about plugs but i will let it go for this time, the next 5000 km service i'll put some spankers in there i'm in a regional centre and just want fluid changes for now otherwise all those left nuts people are offering me for my fuel economy may be traded in for the bullshit servicing costs i'll experience here scourcing parts locally is hard enough i got a datsun with calibrated fuel buckets (webers) which gets better fuel economy while driving like an absolute fool compared to the stageas highway figures - i'll get used of it eventually - i mean i bought the car for its ride, power and fact its a shit load better than a commodore of the same price. Cheap, reliable, powerfull - you can only choose 2... that theory still stands - cant prove it wrong!

no its not, it sometime triggers the check engine light and i get poo as fuel consumption i mean 60 litres in 400 kms considering i'm driving ginger as, is not good enough for me i did 200kms on the weekend at 100kms under cruise control and used about half a tank - 15 litres per 100kms - no head wind, following cars most of the time - doesn't sit right with me the big big big service items i'm saving till i return to adelaide for good in about a year this way i have mates who do this stuff day in and out and can get it done for nothing - i'm too far from home at the moment and finding a good mechanic who can work on one of these is very difficult. - belt and other items will be done then if i still have the car

Hi guys - got my car booked into a joint who are going to be my regular service mob on my car. (i have office hands - i'm over working on cars) ive found a good mob who are willing to look after me and the car so the first service may be a "holy shit what is this thing" and $$$ but over time they will learn the car and keep an eye on it and potential problems for me so i can become an oblivious car owner. its almost about to come round to 80000kms on the odo and ive booked it in for a big service this is the first service i have had done on the car since ownership so i am getting them to replace any fluids the car has with new, inc diffs, engine, trans, coolant etc and a new o2 sensor as i know this is a 40,000km item but i doubt it was ever changed from new. i want the car to be serviced so i know what has been done despite what may have been done by the previous owner(s). i'm curious to what Nissan says about what needs to be changed at 80,000 aswell like fuel filters, airfilters and the like. i have no maintennance schedule as i have no documentation with the car - no service book or nothing. no doubt this has been posted before and the mechs are looking into what is needed so if i can get them something it will be both nice, and so i can maintain the car in accordance to nissans factory schedule unless something else goes wrong. if it has been posted before a nice bum steer in the right direction (search found nothing - immediately) would be appreciated or if some kind soul is willing to scan theirs and post it up (or email) then i will be forever greatfull - well maybe not forever, but thankfull for a long time till both they and i forget. and because i'm lazy - what common serviceable parts are interchangeable with other part numbers (eg oil filters) to avoid the part store clerk with acne doing the whole "whats a starggear, better charge him double its an import" (have to say it with a funny voice or it doesn't work). thanks to all who reply Daniel