910trx

who's up for a league ha its good fun

yep yep fuel at a colder temp is smaller in volume than at lets say ambient or warm therefore they can chuck in more fuel in a standard specified tank. also a controlled temperature allows them to calculate fuel stops and reduce a variable to make calcs on future stops more accurate.

get out a town! i saw this one just after the fire dudes rocked up i was with the missus when we were in adelaide last week going for a tour (in a red poo box laser kh) and pick up a drunk mate from town. when we saw it i told the missus it was a stagea (we just bought one) and she was all like really, then i was all like yeah for sure so we did a loop and came up lower north east and turned right again to confirm. think i saw you with a blanket draped round your shoulders just staring at the front of the car while the firies poured sand on the road. hard luck mate car looked specky as but good to see you were standing and moding about n stuff

rebuildig an l20b motor my mate and i who only worked on it at night with bellies full of coopers pale ale left the rocker cover off as i was doing tappet clearences and about to refit it to the engine. my mate was connecting the fuel lines. he cut one and the off cut sprung into the air and went down the block into the timing chain cover into the sump. we looked at each other for a bit and he said "you really want to get it out?" "Will it matter?" "yer probably" looked down the gap at the front of the block to find not only the bit of rubber hose but a 6mm bolt stuck in the timing chain about to go under the crank with one more turn to get the next valve ready to gap. hard to believe that this motor is still going 5 years later after daily abuse...

i'm 80% of the way through a torrent for the deluxe version - only taken 3 days for 8gb (damn leechers) i'll give it a crack and see how it goes the trial shits me how you can only do a limited free flight and have 2 misions i wanna see how good it can be b4 doing a legit purchase - its not a cheap game! i know downloading is wrong - but at the same time i'm not going to give my money to microsoft if the game is rather limited. same was as if i get a grump at autobahn i'll refuse to pay, dump the items on the counter, drive 15 to another chain and take out my purchase there - its the principle people. hacked versions are limited anyway as you cant add on expansion packs or online game - which is the greatest aspect of modern games so in effect it still is a "trial" but on a greater level. I love my flight games and looking to invest in one of those POV headsets (sound the geek alarm) still cheaper to buying a real plane though... cheers for the feedback

Downloaded the trial version of microsoft fsx and it appears pretty good also looked into getting a torrent version of it but its 10GB and probably wont work afterwards, wasting nearly a months worth of data. i'm pretty hooked on just the free flights and demo mission(s) and i am a sucker for a good flght simulator. i've worn out combat flight sumulator 3, once you have done a campaign or too it looses its oomph. best thing about fsx is you get a whole heap of missions an the planes are realistic to fly - (having never flown a lear jet obviously i dont know exactly how real it is) so i'm wondering if anyone is enough of a geek to own or play this game or has the balls to admit they sit at a computer at hours on end flying a pretend plane. i would like to know if its worth the retail purchase price or only worth geting a torrented versin, or stick with the trial and keep my cash for something else. Cheers Dan

they usually have two loops near lane and far lane which can be in the opposite direction i think they have to knock off 2kmph to allow for anomolies so if you were doing exactly 81 in a 60 zone and did get busted, you will find your speed was 79. hate to jump on the bandwagon but if you speed and get caught then you broke the law and committed a crime. sad but true

to get it out, try getting the piston to tdc with the plug out and get a piece of insulated wire or blow compressed air in small bursts in there to get the piece to where you can see it when you can get some stiff wire and wack a dop of grease on it slide it in till you contact the ceramic piece - it will (if not too big) stick to the grease and bobs your uncle out it comes same thing happened to me on an l20B - different motor but same principle applies it was just after a rebuild to so the last thing i wanted to do was take the head off again or risk smashing up the piston or valve seats just takes plenty of patients and you will get a sore back, swearing really loudly helps alot.

maybe it would be best if someone can advise me of what oil nissan used from the factory for the s2 stagea with rb25 reo they (in accordance to the sticker under the bonnet) recommend 10,000km changes but i dont think it has the viscosity for oil type on there. i think it would be wise if i stuck to somethign rather similar to what the motor was initially built to utilise for its life expectancy under STANDARD DRIVING CONDITIONS. since owning the car i have done one stint of reving it to the redline, the way and where i drive it hardly gets above 5000 rpm, i just ride the torque and cruise in comfort. i dont want to spent $150 on ultimate protection under 2x the standard boost at redline more then 20% of the time i am driving it. i fully understant the reasoning of a great oil and how it reduces stresses throuought the engine, revs freely, and can deal with heavy engine wear. but i putter in mine sorry i thought i'd bring it back to the intitial question. all your points are valid for your individual applictions and your opinions are verymuch appreciated but mine is stock, it will stay stock, and it gets babied around everywhere

my quick quote with GF included was about $1400 goth them to do a propper quote Car is completely stock 1 male 24 (now 25) clean record (drives > 50%) 1 female 22 clean record (drives <50%) bopth work for gov and drive their cars Car is garaged together we also own 3 other cars all which are insured and currently registered agreed to insure the car for what i paid ($10 500) and it was sucked down to $880 for the first year and additional excess is bumped up an extra $400 - Fully Comp

so have we come to a preferred cd brand yet i'm using Philips cd-R but cant get the stock stagea unit to read them would it be worth geting gold or blue cdr's to test also i cant burn any slower the 4x on my version of nero - and its the good nero too just annoying as i had a fm transmitter fir the old car to play the ipod but even with a converter the jap frequency isn't high enough the read the >106.0 mHz freq from the receiver i have only 1 station and i hate it !!! yes ultimate thread revival but i have learnt starting a new thread is not often wise

"Sticking..?" Haven't heard of that before? yep it happens - the parts get a little bit of rust in them or the pads fuse to the disc/drum hard work pushing a car with siezed rear brakes... Never new about this? Does the rubber start to set / stick to the windscreens? sticks and also sets in the position they are left in - so u use them and the wipers dont flex properly and are just plain crap i leave my datsun for 6 months at a time in a garage i just do the old check levels, charge battery let it run for a bit to charge the battery a bit more, allow to cool, check fluids drive her slowly calmly for a day or too so i know it is alright. then gun it! i also park the tires on cardboard pads (2 sheets thick) to avoid them hardening or flatspotting and the old man starts it maybe every month or so till it gets warm when i'm not around. for 2 months i can see there being little need for extensive preperation just find a well sheltered, dry, safe spot and be ready with a charger once you get back - mates, parents, siblings garages are the best or let them drive it around have a nice safe trip!

fantastic build! is that the efi turbo l28?

remember your insurance goes up too if you claim as you are considered a greater risk its there if you car gets side swiped in a carpark, a tree falls on it, stolen and burnt to the ground or you run up the back of a ferrari... not to cover broken glass or mangled door locks inless its over $1800 damege then you should claim. if it was $900 it is best to just pay out the pocket sux i know but you gota live with it btw sorry to hear you got broken into - makes you feel violated and your blood boils! i know...

That is a reply i was looking for Cheers

just woried if you are after sex appeal from a car and get a ford you will become attractive to unshaven, hi-vis, hardhat wearing tradies named macca, donga, bob etc but the ford despite the bad wrap everyone gives them are a nice car with heaps of power it is a modern car with modern suspension archeteture and modern features yes it is not the pinicle of design but you get a lot of car for your money which if you want to putter round in will be fine, or highway trips ie you can tow a boat and wont shit a kidney on a rough road you can fit more then 2 people and 6 t shirts in it i'm more than certain you will not be rally drifting it everytime you get in it so 4wd turbo with rally suspension is not always necessary for an everyday car if you were driving a rally of track sprint nearly every weekend i would consider otherwise, bit if you were a seperate car would be wise. will go like stink from the lights if you need to do that thing and in general is a well rounded car. the only thing to realy consider fords to be a bit plastic and show their age after a few years - but you can say the same for a wrx or evo take care of it and i'm sure it will survive. overall nice car and very cheap at the moment its fine for people to give their opinion and ideas after never driving any of the above and only reading about it behind their keyboards. your arse in the seat means more than some misguided pc jockies and i believe the ford (ducks from a flying object) is very comfortable and a good alrounder for your money (ducks again from another flying object)

WOOO HOOOO! i helped someone LOL

white spirits is pretty harmless to trim great for gettin grubby fingerprints out of things including rooflinings. instead of a rag try and use a sponge as it spoaks up the crap into the sponge rather than spread it on fabric trim i have literally flushed the fabric and kept wiping till it is clean but suaked - it will dry on leather it is best to treat it afterwards as the leather may become dry over time - but you should be feeding your leather regularly anyway we literally went nuts with white spirits to clean cars after 3 grubby trimmers have been working in them with metal fab fingerprints everywhere also removes contact adhesive to beware of what you apply it to and white spirits not clear spirits LOL

i'd like to join the sau clan if is still exists I'm Rod_Lengthens http://bf2s.com/player/156830858/ 2nd profile i started as my first 910bluey was just for me to learn the ins and outs to many mistakes like continually spawning on a raped flag, learning to fly (still cant) or running into a pistol and machine gun fight with a sniper rifle say a bad global score and sad statistics. so the new one is a bit better but i cant fly jets need a joystick

what kind of belt is it? "klippan" inertia reels have a ##/## relating to the degree vertically and horizontally ie a 90/90 will be straight upright 39/90 is perpenducular to the ground but 39` from horizontal ensure it is pretty damn close - you generally have 5` of tollerence stick it in a vice at the right angle and clamp the bit where the mounding hole is tight (not the actual reel obviously) you should if a klippan or autoliv have a clear window on the side and see the bearing near an orange tag. the bearing should sit so the orange tag doesnt sit in the reel teeth - generally it will be loose and not sitting still the idea of the orange bit is so when the car is on an angle the belt locks - there is also an internal inertia lock what when the belt spinns too fast w/o the angle trigger, it will lock under centrivical force get some silicone spray with a tube nozel and give the belt a good spray through the webbing wound round the reel (wascaley wabbit) if the orange trigger is released then all you need to do is pull up on the webbing with your girly arms till you get an additional 4 inches or as much as you can - you cant break it - this is what it is designed to hangle, allow the reel to retract *VERY SLOWLY* till the inertia lock releases and you can then freely pull the belt. you now have your belt back. put a block of wood behind the reel of if you had yellow tags which came with the reel - put them back on and do not take off until the reel is installed (this stops it retracting too far again - if it does you remove the wood or tag and have a good foot of belt to play with to release the trigger again) . But for the love of God do not tug on it when it is not EXACTLY in the right spot or you need a new belt - yoursecond chance of over and you spend more $$$ or take it to people who install belts for a crust Willshires at 466 south road in marleston will do it for ya - i used to work there some years back its a 5 minuite job free of charge. let me know how you go Dan

series 2 nissan bluebird 910 sedan about $1000 for a good example -2ltr high compression L4 -5 speed manual -elec ignition standard -elec fuel pump standard -therno fan standard fit s13 coilovers and brakes to the front and coilovers to the back about $1500 r31 front brakes are a bolt for bolt mod (if s13 det brakes are not used instead - $500 from coilovers and add about $150) r31 or s13 front sway $30 Good clutch $150 TRX and LX had the disk rear end (range from $150 - 300 if fitting afterwards) dif is a bit weak so upgrade to the later h190 dif out a series 3 bluebird then weld it (centres for either h165 or h190 are about $75 to 100 each but need the right beam axle for centre - see above cost - less for drum of course) save up and fit twin 45mm webers ($1000) or slot a ca18, sr20, z18 or fj20 in with nothin but a soldering iron and a spoon - you may need to fit a series 3 ca20s 910 front cross member for ease of fitment S13 turbo 15 inch x 6 inch mags $200 all out a quick easy build will cost about $4100 factor in harness, seat, semi tyres, roll cage and strut brace... but they are irrelevant depending on racing type and most of the above can be sourced for less if you pick up a s3 trx or a less than prime example wouldn't hurt for fresh rings and bearings in the old L20 after 25 years subtract spare wheel, interior, sound deadening, unnecessary electrics, bumpers if necessary you will be under 1000kg easily (about 1100kg standard)

+1 Febreeze +1 Baking Soda also try the good old glen 20 and spray in the ac vents or proper a/c core disinfectant used to be a smoker and make my car stink! try the above also for fabric upholstery try white spirits in a spray bottle and spray it till the cloth is damp and wipe away, the smell is nutralised and removed - excess dries and lets your car smell like a dry cleaners for a bit - great in removing general muck and stains because it dries quickly too so just go happy with it. with leather use a leather food - brings back the smell of lether and gets all the crap off, and tabacco and leather is not a bad mix in my opinion used white spirits all the time when working for a trim shop - love that stuff - works on everything! *not metholated spirits

yeah its called a stagea...

i get more nods and waves inthe bluebird than the stagea mostly people think the stagea is an old volvo or something the 910 has the all out oldschool carby cam lump thing happening but you get commodore wankers falcon wankers skyline wankers civic wankers silvia wankers datsun wankers usualy this is because of blind ignorance and/or they have been beaten by one of the above previously if someone calles you a *insert name here* wanker - take it a a compliment - they are jelous!

i was told by racq "my car is unacceptable" and they hung up i have just cars full comp inc my 22 yo gf (no not my gf insured - she driving it) yes you get raped by insurance companies they are pretty much all the same but if shit hits the fan you may pay out half of your car but not the other which may just be the ducks nuts... so i guess you get raped with a smaller object rather than the whole forearm and clenched fist they were good and nice while taking my money but hopefully i'll never need to use them...