910trx

its a photo of taxis taken in the late 80's just kidding...

wow an interesting read there guys. Has anyone noted that the original response and tv program related to the easily available "hoon" activity easily available through such meduims, why they chose to include them in the footage, but did TT had any predispositions to achieving social justice on any level, why did they collate the "best of the worst" to play on air within the main raitings bracket? So while they are bad mouthing hoons and the influence this footage CANor MAY have on they youth of australia, they display it at a time when most people of all generations and age brackets are watching and expose it to a wider audience. It is unfortunate that it is easier to single out a minority which for a long time has a stigma attached which is a menace to society and will absolutely in no doubt kill your children and if not, force them to take drugs, perform underage sex and spawn a generation of doll bludgers that the average whire double income family with 2 children need to support through their taxes. i'm supprised they have not jumped to the conclusion that the import cars also bring in illegal immigrants hiden in the boot carrying sars and child prostitutes. It is also unfortunate to acknowledge while 5% of the population is sore about labeling enthusiasts and hoons in the same bracket a further 95% of the population agree with the findings or are atleast missinformed enough to believe the unjust and false media properganda they produce. I'm all in support of those who want to fight but honestly, really is it going to get you anywhere? maybe... as they do the toy run with bikies 2 weeks after a bikie underbelly society "terrorist" special... still rather than writing intellegent emails that expose the incompetencies of the channel 7 journalism facalty, their pathetic attemps to reply will fall of deaf ears and wouldn't suprise me if this guygets his jollies off of emails from the minorities he aims to discriminate. i'd consider it a better option to pin this 'Producer guy" and shit down his throat...

+1 for bf2 awesome game play although nicer graphics would be great running top graphics and 3d but still looks dated i'm over hackers and noobs who punish you for a team kill when they run out infront of your vehicle, drive over a mine or walk into your claymore. but nothing better than a friday night, get 2 6 packs and an esky - sit it next to the pc - god i'm a geek...

as mentioned above, try a different road last weekend while down in the gold coast i freaked thinkin something was off balance in the rear turned out to just be the morotway between brizzy and goldie does it change with speed ie occurs strongest at one speed and fade? is is there from the start and just gets more noticeable with speed?

yup back pressure is usually there to aid scavanging of exhaust gases post combustion and this is important to get just right in a na car exhaust gasses at the right pressures and pulses can create vacumes and low pressure points that essentially aid the extraction of gasses. a perfect sized exhaust diameter in a na allows the free flow of gases out the exhaust at a constant rate rather than creating gas back ups. turbos are different as there after the manifold is a massive obstruction which unless on overrun with heaps of spool will always produce pressure to a certain extent as it is forced through the fins. after this you want to get rid of as much pressure and turbulance as necessary yes the same theories can be applied to turbo as na but back pressure is not only dictated by exhaust diameter but more importantly exhaust manifold design, good exhause manifolds dont just try to maintain equal pipe lengths to aid better spooling but to enable a better eficiency in the escape of gas from the combustion chamber to the turbo. my take on the original question. if it has an exhaust on it, keep it on there to avoid paying coin later, if you dont like the tip then change it but i vote for keep the bigger exhaust

i always used an open spanner after undoing the sump plug with a socket. takes a while for the hot oil to start dripping but when it does use the spanner and let it drop into the oil so you dont get 2nd degree oil burns. make your tea as stated earlier then pour the oil into an old oil jug (remember you are not meant to bin it - recycle man) and grab the plug out or your drip tray when you can see it, wipe it with a rag and bung it back in there. used to be able to cope tith hot oil but now i have girly office hands it burns like a bitch. i also believe that oil levels should be checked at cold as this allows the oil to settle, and when adding oil you are not heating it up to operating temp before adding it. therefore factors such as heat and the expansion or retraction of oil variables are reduced. dip stick markings in my opinion would indicate the absolute reading at the period where conditions are least subject to variables such as oil in the motor and temp - ie ambient temp after the greatest portion of the oil has dropped to the sump. my 2c

i might consider when the odo hits 80000kms to fit a new o2 sensor in as i doubt it has been replaced ever and could save a bit in fuel. would running it in snow mode contribute to better fuel economy as it produces less boost for longer ? - not in stop start conditions obviously as i hardly consider starts from standstill in 2nd to be efficient and good for the gearbox but i noticed when i had cruise on when it dropped 5kms up a hill the car kicked back and came on boost pretty hard which tends to drink the fuel thinking by limiting boost would it better economy? also i played around with the auto as i held the gear in 4th (auto) so when it goes up hill instead of kicking back a gear it just spools up and keeps the revs below 2500 in undulating roads at 100kms. holding gears created a more comfortable ride and lessened the kicking back, entering warp speed back to the speed limit. still from gladstone to gold coast, drive for 3 days and back on 3 tanks @ $1.18 per litre is not too bad with the aircon on all the time. = about $200 all up in fuel as it was filled at 1/4 everythime compared to plane tickets to brisbane were $150 pp one way tilt train is $85 pp then for both the above you need to get the extra 100kms from brisbane to surfers and catch cabs everywhere then find your way home. multiply the above prices by 2 for 2 adults, + lugguage fees and return trips... yeah it is no daewoo or kia but it is spaceous, comfortable, convenient, luxurious, reliable(?) and cheaper than available long distance public transport to which i have tried previously. just be nice to knock the weekly fuel back a tad but overall chen comparing to the above is really not too bad

470kms from full to the brim with standard fuel to 1/4 tank traveling at 107kmph under the control of cruise felt confident to do another 60kms to the next town but being in the middle of nowhere we thought it wasnt worth the risk of running out, esp if continuous overtaking was needed car is still stock as a rock working on getting a new higher flowing air filter and lighter oil will see how it goes there after and see if it makes a noteable difference

are there any issues with changing oil viscocities or going from sym blend to full syn i'm just about to do my first service on the car since owning it and have no idea what oil is in it would it be best to do a quick change ie 2000kms to ensure the oils dont mix and go bad for safety sake? plan on doing a change as per the nissan guide under the bonnet of 10,000kms i mean nissan say it is ok wouldn't it be alright then? car is not a track car and i dont drive it hard

i just dont want anything too thin so i get noisy lifters or will cause trouble with continual 1000km trips to brizzy and back and i'm not looking for a track use oil, the car barely goes over 4grand and puts around but i want something to protect the engine anfd turbo for those moments just after start up where you need to redlineit to avoid being hit by a truck etc alright i'll look into a new k&n filter at this stage and have a gander price plays a big part in what i chose so rather than the best i should have specified bang for buck Cheers and thanks for the swift replies

Guys and girls i have an rb25det neo in a stagea which needs an oil change - i have just bought the car so this it the first time i have had to touch it. ive driven it for 2000kms since owning it because of the belief it had been serviced just prior by the previous owner. basically i want to do a filter swap and new oil, then another 2000kms do the same, then start the 5000km change process so every 5 or 0 on the odo means a service i drive no more than 5kms to work from overnight parking where it sits in work's carpark, then i drive the same distance home again. however on weekends the car usually does 2 stints of 100km trips to a neighbouring town. typical overnight temp is about 15`C and daylight temp is 25`C for winter i'm not hung up on achieving every little piece of hp available, i'd rather have a motor that lasts for another 70 000 kms and drive like it is new. can someone suggest the best oil to use for this application and if organic or syn is the way to go for this motor. Cheers

Case: Ultrix something or rather with cpu fan speed and temp readout Motherboard: Gigabyte GA-45***** or something CPU & CPU Cooler: 3.2GHz intel core duo (unclocked for now) with thermaltake liquid cooling system RAM: 4Gb Kingston ddr2 800 but one pair have just fried so looking for ones with heat sinks Monitor: aoc 22inch widescreen lcd Graphics Card: 2 X 512 radeon ati cards in cross fire mode HDD(s): 1x 250Gb internal 1X 250Gb external OS Used: XP pro 32 Bit Peripherals: std microsoft keyboard, laser mouse, 6.1 channel logitec prologic satelite surround system, logitec wingman GT force feedback steering wheel, logitec 12 button 4 axis (rudder and throttle) joy with 4 way hat. Logitech mic + headphones

Bargain at $7500 910 bluebird ventura although ca18 and not engineered best one i have seen for sale in recent years http://aussiebluebirds.com/index.php?topic=639.0

cheers i had only just found it i was in a panic about this and a more thorough search revealed it yep one of those post now think later noobs...

just one more thing guys... can anyone direct me to the location of the vehicle speed sensor (vss) for a s2 stagea! searches have proved to be inaffective so direction to the right page - a wiring diagram - rough location or pics would be fantastic thing is i need it by tonight - just helping out the auto lec by giving verything and anything he may/will need to make his job easier.

not on mine

just driven 130kms to a holiday resort with the stagea no worries... unpacked the stuff and got back in the car to go for a tour. 2 kms down the road the engine (yellow profile sketch outline) lights up, i swear numerous profanities and immediately pull over keeping the car running idling rine, no missing, no knocks, burning smell, steam etc turned car off turned car on to get it back to the hotel 1 km down the road the light turns off. drove about 10 kms and light is still off. what triggers this light and should i be worried? car is sounding, driving and performing fine... i have to drive home in 3 days, is it going to be ok?? oil fine, coolant fine, powersteering fine, trans fine... own a stock stagea series 2 rs4 with 76ooo kms hoping was a loose connection or something ideas???

cheers for the kind words the bluey is showing her age rust is coming through and will be a bit to fix - needs a spray $$$ i'm contemplating whether to fix her peoperly or strip it out for and bog it up for amateur hill climbs in the future i considered a 1600 but cost too much for a young fella when i first got it plus the blue has working aircon, 5 speed man, l20b and easy transplant for a ca18, and a decent ride and interior. my mates think i'm nuts having a bluebird, but love is blind - its like driving a red 80's tissue box, but the car keeps going and rather than buying commos or r31 pintaras and skylines when i was a youngin, the blue remains rather unique and still goes strong! the stagea gets a bath this weekend and we plan to take good care of it. i have never been so suprised by a "family" car before. i cant believe i nearly bought a vy wagon for the same price and kays! happiness is owning a stagea

cruise control! it also stops the gov taking more of my money later...

Hi gang, Name is Daniel, I'm a town planner and i am originally from SA but moved to Qld for my very long term girlfriends work. been dating for 7 years and i have to marry her soon or i'm never going to hear the end of it. i'm 24 and have been in qld for a year now (northern Qld) always been a huge fan of skylines but never had the coin or balls to buy one. really always wanted an r32 black gtr vspec - been in love with the r32 ever since jim richards told the fans at 96 bathurst they were a pack of arseholes with a nervous mark skaiffe fresh out of puberty by his side. i still have my first car ever which is a 1984 nissan bluebird. done the usual things to it and goes quite alright. it really is my pride and joy and i think i will never part with it, considering all we have been through, and all the time i have spent under it replacing every bolt and screw. the car now sits in my old's garage with a pile of parts till i figure what i'm going to do with it. future upgrades are to fit the twin 40mm webers to it then after rebuilding the z18et - put that in. being 3000km away from my baby i needed a new car and we have slogged it out for a while in a 95 ts fag-na which is coloured appropriately as it handles like a turd round an "s" bend. after being here for a year the GF and i pooled our funds together and forked out for a new commodore but they were just not good enough value for money. for the same cash we found a genuine bloke selling his silver s2 stagea rs4. we jumped on the next train for 5 hours to pick it up. although i dont own a skyline, i'm that step closer none the wiser to the girlfriend who thinks we got a commodore equivalent with more features and is potential family capable. please dont tell her. i dont think there is any immediate need to "do her up" except i just got caught speeding the third time i drove it, so it is having cruise fitted and i think maybe a brick under the gas pedal to allow 5mm of movement. exhaust is probably the biggest and soonest mod after cruise "purely for efficientcy" but leave the wheels and ride height as is. higher profile is better for out lengthy hwy driving and my silly car is the dastun in adelaide NOT this one. i have been searching this site for a few months prior to signing up, then did so just prior purchasing the stagea. i have to thank everyone for being so helpful with my noob questions and maintaining the wealth of knowledge available on thes forum. Thank you and i'll probably appear in an off topic thread soon. Cheers Daniel

awesome! give me a bit to do some local quotes n stuff. and to see of i have not been blown away by this cyclone coming... Cheers!

yeah the auto... do you have a supplier or recommended installer somewhere in Rockhampton or Gladstone? do you still have the wired cruse panel with this one, or is it just the IR card on the steering wheel?

alright go electric and give me a rough fig please. i was gonna risk it on evil bay but chances it is 90% right and 90% complete yeah the dealer said that only ONE person in the work shop was qualified to do it. really it is NOT that hard - prices for a vaccume unit i have found so far have ranged from $200 to $400 approx $100 per hour for a dealer ship (over estimate but still) is 8 to 10 hours to install!!! really i can only believe it could be a 4-5 hour job if i had the tools and equip here Lil bobby - you have been ever so helpful and goes for the rest of you with my noob stagea questions so far

i'm keen of a price please, just supplied i'm a bit far north to get to brizzy unless you want to come to Gladstone i think i'm set on the command unit brand that runs off the speedo not the tailshaft. but not keen on a control panel (looks clumbsy) or the stalk on the steering column (i like to sit close to the wheel with my knees either side - just my preferred method) and fear breaking the column. what i'm after is the one with the panel that slots into the steering wheel between the spokes. cm21 (?) i'd like it to look neat and not too after market. i have an S2 but dont know how the card like panel will effect possible airbag deployment. i wont install myself, i'll find a sparky to do it or some guy who is good with alarms etc, i would happily do it but i dont have the tools here - not my nissan dealer, they said a command unit would cost up to $1500 installed! cant find the electric actuator unit but is it possible to run a vaccume unit with a vac reservoir tank?

the command AP series appear to be the way to go, but i got my local nissan dealer seeing if there are any genuine ones or ones they supply/prefer over other aftermarket items. the command ones appear in all searches but for sure i'll get someone else to do it. i dont have the tools up here and this way if it stuffs up, i can take it back.