GoldV35

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No surprise but the Brisbane dealers are bullshitting you, the truth is they don't want the hassle, so they lie. Screw them, go to: http://www.importmonster.com.au Import Monster will get the 2 x 4L cans of oil for less than half the price, you just have to wait 6 weeks.

The cool surface acts a heat sink for the battery which after a period determined by the ambient temperature will slow down the electrochemical reactions in the battery making them appear flat in the short term. Given a bit of time to warm up, they will recover. And I do have a battery on the concrete in my garage as we speak, always done it, never an issue. Are you religious?

Hahaha, thats the funniest thing I've heard for awhile, you obviously skipped science at school.

Its lowered with the exact same springs you have, I do scrape sometimes but you get good at recognising whats too high and what isn't.

Correct on the fronts, but for the rear, 19x9.5 +45. No lip rolling required, fits perfectly with 2 -3mm gap to spare. See my pics for proof

You're a member of this club and you say 'boring old 3.5L N/A'? Your reasoning, while entertaining, is way off the mark. Yes fuel consumption is no issue for me, however I choose cars based on designs I like such as the V35/V36. So if in the future I see a V8 I like, then I'll be in it, high fuel consumption or not. Anyway, whats the savings going to be if you choose a more fuel efficient car, $20 or $30 a week?

Who really cares about fuel consumption? Honestly, if you do, then go buy a Prius or better still, get a mountain bike. If you have to watch your fuel consumption, then either get a better paying job or stop fooling yourself by living beyond your means.

Well the springs were rated as 15% stiffer than stock and the tyres are obviously lower profile so there is some loss of smoothness/comfort on rough roads. This is offset by the handling being more responsive and 'sporty', and looking good of course.

I had 19s on mine, didn't have to roll and fenders or anything like that, simply put em on and they were the perfect offsets. I used King Springs from Fulcrum Suspensions for a 350z coupe, lowered the car around an inch which was enough to tuck the rear wheels inside the arch. The wheel specs were: Front 19" x 8.5" +38, Rear 19" x 9.5" +45, checkout the pics and you'll see how good it looks.

I'm working on the assumption that he would be buying from a car yard, this should be apparent based on the advice I gave. Having said that, your response is irrelevant. By the way, if you're going to be a smart ass online, perhaps you should at least start your sentences with capitals and spell correctly. Car yards that sell import vehicles source them from any number of different auction houses in Japan and an auction sheet is part of the procurement process. Of course they don't have a 'duty of disclosure', but an auction report is something I always ask for and 9 times out of 10 I get it.

The 370GT comes in Base model, Type P, Type S and Type SP. Only Type S and Type SP is available with the 6 Speed manual transmission. Type S and Type SP models have the sports package including 4 wheel active steering, upgraded brakes, 19″ wheels and tyres. The Base model and Type P have 18″ wheels. The Type P and Type SP have the premium package including full leather trim and heated seats. Driver position memory allows preseting of seating and steering wheel position for two different drivers.

Are you serious, have you ever bought a car before?

Ask to see the auction sheet, and don't take any excuses from them, they keep those on file and if they won't show you, then I would conclude they are hiding something. When you get the auction sheet, make sure the numbers match the vehicle you are looking at, sometimes they'll give you one for another vehicle and since its in japanese, hope you won't notice but the numbers don't lie. If you don't know how to decipher the auction sheet, google around and you'll find the info showing what each letter and number means. Also, not critical and most often not available but will help you make a decision, ask if it has logbooks and if the odometer reading has been certified. Apart from that, do the usual checking.

No, that version isn't on the import approval list, plus there is only one place in all of Australia that can compliance the rear wheel 370GT sedan and they are in WA. They have put a ridiculously large profit margin onto the one they are selling, I assume to try and recoup the emissions testing cost. In other words, they are a rip off in my opinion. I wanted to import one myself aswell but they said they would not comply it for me, so they have us over a barrel at the moment until some other dealer on the east coast pays for the privilege of compliancing those.

What a legend, screw being a doctor, I want to be like you. @deejaydip Hey mate, spoiler matches the car well. I was going to get one of those when I had my V35 sedan aswell, the place I found to be the best to deal with is Import Monster. I've bought off them a few times, so hit them up for the spoiler.

Edited by Mod. See Below.

The 3 month 'Statutory Warranty' is, by law, given on all second hand vehicles bought at a dealership, whether they tell you or not. Of course, if you buy an aftermarket warranty then the statutory one is irrelevant, but its a safety net should you have issues within the first 3 months, FYI. My point is, you will be able to get the power window issue fixed no worries, the dealership has to comply, so take no shit. If they decide that they won't fix it for whatever reason, then tell them you will lodge a case with the Dept. of Fair Trading, that should get them moving, haha. Also, when it goes in to get fixed, every day they have it sitting in their workshop is not counted against the 3 months stat warranty. For example, if you had one week left of the stat warranty, and the dealership has your car for two weeks, then you will still have a week of warranty left. This happened to me, I had a car with a problem within the 3 months, took it to dealership where they spent 6 or so months trying to fix issue, and none of that time counted, so I still had a month warranty after all that.

Your Carsales ad says 'freshly imported', so why would you import it just to immediately sell?

I think its unlikely its the thermostat, because the only 2 faulty conditions it could have are either stuck open or stuck closed. If it was stuck closed, then you wouldn't get boiling coolant steaming out of the overflow tank, as it only gets coolant from the radiator. If it was stuck open, then it definitely wouldn't overheat. Could also of course be the thermo fan, but I wouldn't have thought it would be an issue if you are driving, as that usually has enough airflow to cool without the fan. I'm leaning more towards a water pump issue, either way, take it to a mechanic asap, then let us know if I got it right

What a dodgy auto electrician, you should NEVER put in a fuse of a higher rating. Let me get this straight, the 'auto electrician' decided to put in a higher rated fuse after the correct one was blowing? So I guess it was just too hard to fix the actual problem, easier to cover it up, hahahha. That means that whatever was causing the original fuse to blow is now going straight past unchecked and hitting whatever it is that the fuse is supposed to protect, lets hope its nothing too important. If I was you I'd be very worried right about now, get the correct fuse back in there and tell them to fix the original problem ASAP, since they obviously caused it.

Most 12v sockets have a type of fuse attached directly to it, so remove the socket and have a look at the bottom of it, you should see it, basically looks like a thin metal wire that will have a break in it. Its so simple to fix, had a mate that tried to use a compressor and fried his sockets, the workshop quoted him $800 as they apparently had to take the whole dash out blah blah etc. I called BULLSHIT on it, told my mate what to do, so he ended up replacing the sockets himself for a few dollars.

Hi mate, all sounds a bit dodgy to me. Alarm bells are ringing, get your 'fully refundable' deposit back and try and get the second deposit back, either way, cut it loose and look for a better car. Also from now on, don't give any other dealer a 'second' deposit, thats just a bullshit way of doing business. They do that so you feel pressured into proceeding with the purchase even though issues arise. And before you give the next dealer a first deposit, have the car checked more thoroughly, never ever rely on a dealers word. 'if I decide not to proceed to buy, is there law that I can get all deposit refunded since verbally promised delivery did not happen.' You can still get the first deposit back for sure as is stated on the receipt, it is your right to change your mind, do not let them bully you into it. If they decide to be smartarses, tell them you'll get the Office of Fair Trading involved, that usually shuts them up.

Import Monster - http://www.importmonster.com.au Through their website you have access to over 70 auction houses, with a very simple search/browse facility. Either search yourself or tell them what you want and they'll find it.