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GoldV35

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Posts posted by GoldV35

  1. Yeah temperature can affect electricals if they are a bit dodgy, like bad connections or parts close to total failure.

    Best bet definitely get the error codes from diagnostics.

    When you get them, call Gareth from CVT NZ and politely ask his advice, he is very helpful and knows the transmission better than anyone.

  2. Issue is back just as before. Have the car back to them..again. This time I got them to admit they don't so much know what they are doing and need to tourbleshoot the issue properly. What I really need is to find someone who knows this CVT gearbox properly or has fix the same issue before. Either way I'm spitting chips and want to swap it for a manual (and somehow make the missus agree).

    www.cvt.co.nz

    Ask for Gareth, he knows all about them. Yes, he is in NZ, but he has also flown over here and trained a workshop or two around the place to deal with these, so just ask him for their whereabouts.

    As for getting one with manual transmission, there is one currently at Motorman Imports.

    I don't think they would go for actually swapping in a manual transmission, the cost and effort would be too much, I could be wrong.

    Remember, they would have to change the ECU and put in a different pedal box in addition to the transmission. Also, the centre trim needs to be changed, thats all I can think of for now.

  3. I don't think it would be a knee jerk reaction to sell it as the issues you could face are very real, as you know I have been through them myself.

    Having the top AWN warranty is a good thing of course, and there wouldn't be any question of them fixing it should an issue arise. The big issue is the waiting time you may have to endure, either trying to track down a working second hand box, or having a mechanic try and fix it with no prior knowledge.

    Basically, would you be happy not having your car for potentially a couple or even 7 months (like my experience)?

  4. I can see my future, and it looks a lot like what GoldV35 went through. These dealer might sell a lot of the skylines but their own workshop feels more like a backyard chopshop than a real garage. I had to take it to them for the warranty but the customer service I keep getting is bullshit.

    I watched their guy plug in the car to identify the problem, which it did come up with. He showed me it said transmission problem but didn't specify so he reckons he'll be taking it apart to find out if he can find the problem. I have serious doubts. On top of that he outright told me it would take him ages… when he gets to it.

    To say I'm pissed off doesn't sum it up.

    The good news is that I jumped up and down long enough that one guy came to the party and got his mystery 'boss' to put $30 a day toward a rental car.

    [/size]

    We'll see how it plays out, until then I'll be rocking out in the coolest 3 door getz around…. :)

    yeah man, I knew they would be a joke to deal with.

    Are you under warranty still?

    If so, they have to fix it, so don't take it anywhere else or you will have to pay, unless they approve of beforehand which won't happen.

  5. Gold advice, GoldV35. I'll get to it this weekend!

    Did it sound like an old wooden floorboard creaking?

    Thanks Mate

    Yeah absolutely.

    More specifically it would 'creak' if I was going slowly over uneven terrain, such as entering or leaving a driveway, obviously that one is due to the flexing chassis.

    The other times was if the engine was at certain rev ranges, those frequencies caused the panels to resonate.

    To a lesser extent, if going over a particularly bumpy road, the impacts would bring on some creaking aswell.

    Another thing, the back doors can get a creak going, due to the plastic door trim rubbing on the metal door. This can be fixed by putting felt pieces in certain strategic locations.

    Again, this is covered on the american G35 site, link here: http://g35driver.com/forums/g35-sedan-v35-2003-06-15/

  6. Hey man, this is the deal, I have a 2005 5sp V35 sedan and the Mrs HAD a 2003 V35 350GT-8.

    After only 1 month of ownership, the tranny played up in the 350GT-8, much the same as you described with yours.

    We bought it in Sydney so under the statutory 3 month warranty, it was transported back there, where it stayed for over 7 months.

    In that time they f*#ked around trying to fix it, as their so called 'mechanics' in house hadn't actually worked on that transmission before, and were unwilling to pay to get a real expert in.

    We would get an email saying, 'yeah, new parts in transmission, its back in car, just being tested now, be ready in a few days', but then it wasn't. This happened 6 times.

    We were basically letting them do a lot of trial and error, so obviously we had zero trust in these jokers from then on.

    After almost 7 months they admitted defeat and just bought a second hand transmission replacement, which I thought they should have done pretty much from the start instead of making us wait so damn long.

    I suppose its possible, but don't expect them to give you a replacement car while yours is being fixed either, so if its all you have, then you're up the creek.

    Whats my point? Just giving you a heads up on what you may have to deal with.

    At the end of it all when it was finally returned, we got our own back by selling it to a, no doubt, scumbag used car dealership without us losing any money on the deal, and hopefully in a few months it will break on them.

    PS. the Mrs went and bought a new G6 Ford instead, but I'm still flying the flag for Nissan, haha.

  7. Yeah I had the same problem, I looked on the american G35 website and they had a TSB regarding it. Apparently the bolts behind the back seat and around the parcel shelf loosen off enough to cause a creaking sound whenever there is either chassis flex or certain vibrating frequencies.

    Basically, take out seat and parcel shelf trim and tighten every bolt you see. If you're really keen, take them out and use some semi-permanent loctite, then you know it'll never happen again.

  8. you are messing with the wrong person here...

    Why do you say that Chris, its not my intention to 'mess' with anyone, merely defend my position.

    His last post confirmed what I said from the start of this disagreement, case closed.

    Back to the whole reason for this topic, at this point there has been some interest however not enough for any particular part.

    So unless I get at least 5 people onboard for one type of part, I'm not going to pursue it.

    If anyone else wants to though, give Nathaniel a call at: www.lsm.net.au

  9. Nissan Skyline V36 370GT Type P - same as 370GT base model but with leather interior and an Adaptive Steering Wheel and Door Mirror position system (moves with the drivers seat position).

    Nissan Skyline V36 370GT Type S - four-wheel aluminium-caliper opposed-piston brakes designed to optimise the stroke at low speed and provide secure stopping power at higher speeds (four-piston calipers on the front wheels and two-piston calipers on rear wheels), Nissan's four-wheel active steering (4WAS) system which adjusts the steering-linked angles of front and rear wheels according to speed, making the vehicle more responsive to the driver at low and medium speeds, and stable and smooth during higher speeds, 19 inch wheel and tyre package (225/45R19 front, 245/40R19 rear), sports tuned suspension and aluminium pedals. Also available with unique front bumpers and matching side sill spoilers and the choice of a 5-speed automatic (with paddle shift) or 6-speed manual transmission.

    Nissan Skyline V36 370GT Type SP - same as Type S model but with leather interior and an Adaptive Steering Wheel and Door Mirror position system (moves with the drivers seat position).

  10. Yes,

    All parts we produce are made from prepregs, Carbon's,Arimids and some smaller glass parts. all parts are made on Invar tooling with silicone bags witch are then cured in autoclaves.The panels range from small angles 5cm x5cm up to skins that are 5m x 2m.

    And now we come full circle, this proves the point I was making from the start.

    So why would you come into this topic with attitude and cast doubt on what I was saying?

    I'm sure you are very good at wet layup, and if you try really hard, could probably make a part of similar quality to dry layup as you claim.

    But the point is, and has always been, pre-preg dry layup gives the best results, thats why the military demands it, and thats why I want it.

  11. I'm Noy.

    I have an extensive background in all composites. inc a diploma of polymer engineering(composites).

    may not mean alot to some but thats what it is.

    Yes i worked at Custom Carbon and yes i had a heavily C/F'd R33 GTR, All parts were produced in house using aerospace grade materials.

    Currently i am production manager of an Aerospace company, we produce all carbon fibre/ aramid panels for military helicopters

    ARH TIGER, MRH90 and SUPER PUMA. if you aren't familiar with them google and have a look.

    The only reason i commented in the first place is because aswell as my normal job i also run a small business where i produce carbon parts for Drag,Curcuit and Drift cars. All parts i produce at home are wet layup and i have taken panels to work to test and with very surprising results.

    I can produce parts wet layup that have tested stronger than that of dry layup using same material and orientation.

    I didn't mean to try steal your thread nor to flame you. just provide people with some useful information.

    If anyone would like further clarification on this discussion or has any questions please PM me..

    cheers Noy

    on another note, i never really liked the V35 but goldv35 yours looks pretty mint.

    Ok, just so I'm totally clear on this, you work at an aerospace company that produces parts for military helicopters. In addition, you have your own small business producing CF parts at home.

    That being said, the question I have is, what method does the aerospace company utilise?

  12. Firstly i'm not here to flame..

    you make alot comments in regards with dry layup as compared to wet layups.do you have any test results to back up your comments?

    And you speak up said companydo you work for them?

    I don't need any test results, men with greater intellects than yourself have established the fact that dry layup is stronger and lighter than wet layup. Whats your next contention, that water isn't wet?

    My suggestion is, go to their website and have a good look at their qualifications, what they make, the facilities and who they supply to.

    Take it all in, then quietly fade away.

  13. true

    but the example I was thinking of was from a vendor there not a backyard job, either the fitment was not exact ie;blocking the rear camera or the edges didn't quite line up

    either way it's not a popular option there anyway as most of them put on the boot spoiler addition but I'm not a fan of that

    again, best of luck with your endeavour :)

    Yes, you really have to shop around when it comes to vendors, they are not all created equal in the skill department.

  14. You put "company" and "manufacture" in quotes and called it 'farfetched', seemingly questioning the legitimacy of my proposal, that is why I was offended.

    Anyway, apology accepted.

    I think the explanation as to why they can offer parts of this calibre at a lower price is due to that being their main business.

    All the hardware required such as autoclaves, refrigeration units for the pre-preg CF etc. were purchased a long time ago and I would say they have got their money back on those, therefore the cost need not be passed on to clients.

    In addition, they would already have established long standing relationships with suppliers that would of course be able to give them discounts on the bulk purchase of pre-preg CF etc.

  15. Interested, however can you give us a little more insight regarding the "company" that you've spoken to? Just wondering since they "manufacture" carbon fibre parts for F1 and race/rally cars and that itself seems a bit farfetched for the relatively cheap ballpark figure for that standard of work. Would be helpful to generate more interest I'd suspect :laugh:

    And who the hell is this wanker? How would you know if its cheap, are you in the industry? If not, then you don't have a clue.

    Since you chose to publicly denounce me with what is essentially tantamount to calling me a liar, I'll respond by giving you the name and web address of the "company" in question:

    LSM Advanced Composites (www.lsm.net.au)

    Give them a ring, confirm all the information I have given in previous posts is correct, then shut your mouth.

  16. Whats the point of this fuel consumption thread, if people care that much about it just buy a 4 cylinder front wheel drive Toyota and get it over with.

    At the end of the day, the difference between the 250GT, 300GT and 350GT will be what, $20 or $30 a fortnight, not a big deal.

    And if you have to count your pennies on something like that, then you are obviously living at the edge of your means.

    Even worse would be buying a 250GT when you could have the 350GT which is much better, just so you can save $20 a fortnight, haha.

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