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GoldV35

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Posts posted by GoldV35

  1. Yes they seem very good, but they don't have the parts I want for a sedan.

    They also use the wet carbon method, which I've already indicated in previous posts is inferior to dry carbon method that will be used.

    The way I see it, there is two ways of getting the parts we want, using the fenders as an example:

    1 - Purchase from Seibon Carbon: $1400 total inc. delivery.

    or

    2 - Get the company here to make them using the superior dry carbon method, and when its done you get to keep the mold: $1400 total or cheaper if you get more people on board.

    So from a technical standpoint, Seibon Carbon are not the best :rant:

  2. 'I've seen some of the infiniti guys give it a crack but the results have been less than 'quality' so far, fitment off etc'

    Exactly, someone at home in their garage or in a mechanic workshop that has a go will use the wet layup method.

    This involves putting down a layer of dry carbon weave, then pouring on resin and trying to smooth it out and make an even amount everywhere. Of course, due to inaccuracies, there can be bubbling, uneven thickness, and decreased strength due to having too much resin in it.

    However, the place I found uses pre-preg CF which means the resin is already in it at the correct amount, then its molded. Then they put it in a vacuum seal bag and place it in an autoclave (basically oven) for curing. When its in there, the heat causes the resin to liquefy again and conform perfectly to the mold, meaning no fitment issues when putting the part on the car. This process also ensures the part is as light and thin as possible, and up to 30% stronger than using the wet layup method.

    So you can see not all CF parts are made to the same quality, but as always, you get what you pay for.

  3. Don't want to rain on your parade but for the coupe you can get carbon bonnets for $1075.95 already (vented & OEM) in Aus.

    What we can't get in Aus is fenders (10mm wider with vent) I'm keen for them.

    Sounds good, but who sells them and what is the process they use to make them?

    Also, my main focus is sedan owners, I'm aware that coupe owners have more choices when it comes to aftermarket parts, thats my issue.

    I bet they don't sell trunk lids with spoilers molded in either;)

  4. What kind of ballpark figure are we talking about for the bootlid?

    Over the phone, the rough figure was around $1k mark for the bonnet, and a little bit less for the bootlid.

    I have sent them a few pics with the measurements so they can give me the final correct quote.

    The quality of the parts will be second to none, as they make parts for formula 1, race/rally cars, medical devices etc. In fact, one of their clients is TRD.

    The process utilises pre-preg CF, which is then vacuum sealed and cured in an autoclave. This produces parts of the highest quality and strength, as opposed to the wet layup method.

    The inner structural ribs will also be made, with foam injected into the spaces, and the relevant mounting points made for the arms and locking mechanism.

    An additional clear coat will be placed on to protect the piece from yellowing over time, therefore it can be polished and waxed as normal.

    The mold is a separate expense, depending on size, complexity, and quality of the mold material, but it will be from $1k to $2k.

    For the bootlid, I will have the lip spoiler molded into my boot before they make the master mold for the CF piece, same with the bonnet.

  5. I found someone to manufacture CF parts for me and want to see if there is any interest out there.

    I have the sedan, and my idea is to mold a lip spoiler into it much like the one in the pic below. And for the bonnet, I want some vents put in, similar to a Top Secret bonnet.

    post-59969-1254913983_thumb.jpg

    In a few days their production supervisor will get back to me with a quote, which I will in turn post up here.

    I don't work for them and I am making no profit from this, HOWEVER, I seek to keep my cost down by splitting up the cost of the mold, so obviously the more people on board, the less it will cost.

    At this point I need you guys to let me know who is definitely interested, and whether you need it for the sedan or coupe, and what series is the vehicle.

    I think I covered all the important things, fire off some questions if you have any, cheers.

  6. Just a thought, can I import a Fuga 350GT without going through the emission tests and whatever else, since the engine is the same and the chassis basically the same as the V35?

    Surely the government won't require emissions tests on the same exact engine just because its in a different body? Or do they, haha.

    If not, how about this, I import a Fuga 350GT, then buy the VK V8 plus looms, computers etc. and import those, then just put it in. I'm sure there is something wrong with my master plan, can anyone set the record straight on this?

  7. Sounds like they are full of excuses and hot air, I wouldn't be so forgiving. They didn't do the job right and then they try and palm you off with some sorry excuse about the baking process not being done properly. Then they expect you to live with it and go away. You have the right to a refund or to have the job redone to an acceptable standard.

    Personally, I would demand a refund at this point, you gave them a chance and they proved they are either lazy or lack the skill. Either way, you paid for a job to be done and it wasn't.

    If they refuse to refund, or at the very least, redo the job properly, then lodge a complaint with the NSW Office of Fair Trading. Make sure you advise them first before lodging the complaint, as just the mention of it might be enough incentive to change their mind.

  8. Expert advice below have a good read.

    http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Lo...ar-t103158.html

    one reason why I went with the full matching 350z struts and springs combo as opposed to springs only.

    And if you are only after a mild drop camber kit is not really required.

    Thats an interesting link, however it doesn't entirely apply to mine as its such a minor drop, remember I don't have the super lows on.

    If lowering only an inch then the dampers are still operating within the 'green zone' as I like to call it. In addition, the springs are 15% stiffer therefore suspension travel is reduced in comparison to the stock springs with application of identical force.

    There is also the question of bump and rebound control, but once again, within operational limits, albeit on the edge of. You could argue that the dampers will wear out quicker due to not being perfectly matched to the springs, and I agree but not significantly.

    When the day comes that the dampers need replacing, then I will get some Eibachs or similar, until then I see no reason to swap out the current ones.

    The true test though, the ride itself, feels good.

  9. Hey guys

    I'm thinking of lowering my 03 v35 sedan just to close the gap a bit. I've been told if i only change the springs i'm in for a nasty outcome

    A mate said i also have to replace the shocks, add a camber kit and do a four wheel alignment.

    I've read some people use the stock spring from a 350Z, is it just the springs or the shocks as well?? Is this the way to go? I'm open to any suggestions.

    Cheers :down:

    I used King Springs brand that fit a 350z, not the super lows though, only lowers a smidge over an inch and just 15% stiffer than stock.

    As the drop is not significant then a wheel alignment will do the trick. Who told you that you need new shocks and a camber kit?

    My tires are wearing down almost the same as before, not a problem for me, I just make sure I swap the tires to the other side when required.

    I have 9.5 wide rears with a +45 offset, and the tops tuck in at the perfect distance from the guard with no rolling required.

    Have a look at my pics and see if you like the drop, remember I have 19s on.

  10. hi guys thought u might be able to help me.

    i wanna get a kit and came across this 1.

    http://media.photobucket.com/image/v35%20s.../Car-VF6_3b.jpg

    does anyone know wat that front bar is called. or wat the whole kit is called.

    looks a lil bit photo shopped... but yeh

    Its been photoshopped a lot, the front bar, flares, side skirts, and wheels are all taken from another car. The guy that did it even tried to paste the original '350GT' licence plate back on, but you can see the other one a bit to the left of it.

    The front bar and side skirts are for the V35, they are the 'Kuruma Z' kit.

    The flared arches are taken from an Mercedes AMG CLK63.

    The point is, you can't make it look exactly like that, you'll have to get a custom job done.

  11. My car has just clocked up 61K

    I doubt any fluids where changed when it was imported @ 54k due to the engine oil not looking fresh + the jap oil filter I discovered when i changed the engine oil a month later myself

    So with that in mind I think its time to change the oil as we all know the old owners in japan don't usually keep up with servicing

    I gave the only nissan dealer in town a call knowing they would get freaked out if i asked for anything about a V35 skyline, i asked what the oil service life for the 350z auto is. I was told that it is 40k with every major service, however the local nissan dealer then told me that they dont work on many 350zs and usually get a local auto trans shop to do the auto service if required.

    I then asked how much oil would be needed and was transferred to the service dept. The bloke on the phone told me that the auto required 2.9L which i said sounded a bit low for a auto trans to which he reconfirmed that 2.9L was all that was needed.

    After checking on the net it seems that 10.3L is the amount required for an empty fill

    So with my faith in the local dealership all but gone I am considering getting the local performance shop to change my oil when I get my new break discs fitted and kill 2 birds with one stone.

    Now I would like to stick to the nissan matic J fluid that the dipstick states is the only one to use unlees I want serious damage done to the tranny. However I did a quick look on the nulon site and they have a synthetic fluid that meets Matic C/D/J/K needs.

    So I should just use that or try the local nissan shop and ask for some matic J to which they will probaly think is a part number for a nissan patrol sway bar or something...

    dam I hate living in a country bumpkin town

    They will know what Nissan J-Matic fluid is, its used in other models.

    If you want to avoid possible transmission damage or failure, use the official stuff. Also, forget about the knob that told you 2.9L, it is 10.3L for a full flush and change.

  12. As new with only 39,000kms on the odometer, regular servicing and I am the first owner.

    Comes with two and a half years parts & labour warranty remaining with roadside assistance.

    The following modifications were all carried out with professional fitters and I have receipts:

    1 - Starcorp Racing Fusion 19inch deep dish wheels, 8.5 front, 9.5 rear.

    2 - King Springs lowering just over an inch all around, giving a more aggressive stance without sacrificing driveability and comfort.

    3 - Infinity mirror finish window tint with lifetime warranty.

    4 - xForce stainless steel twin tip muffler.

    Other important features:

    1 - Intelligent Keyless entry & ignition.

    2 - VQ35DE engine - the same thats included in the 350z.

    3 - Reclining rear seats.

    4 - Chrome trim and accents on exterior.

    5 - Adjustable power seats.

    Price: $29,000 or nearest offer.

    Inspections are welcome and I can take more pics if requested.

    I only accept payment via Paypal or direct bank deposit.

    I can arrange delivery to anywhere in Australia.

    post-59969-1250491159_thumb.jpgpost-59969-1250491181_thumb.jpg

    post-59969-1250491373_thumb.jpgpost-59969-1250491203_thumb.jpg

    post-59969-1250491212_thumb.jpg

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