mr skidz

Was 8.7mm lift the biggest lift you could use?

Definitely flattened out that bottom end nicely would be mad to drive. Do you think the 14 kilowatts was lost in the lack of lift in the intake camshaft? I'm assuming you had the same size lift intake and exhaust on the old Dyno run?

If it turns out mechanicaly sound it's cheap @ 20k

We could do another auction? [emoji85]

Sold pending payment

Pm Replied

Pointless I reckon unless your competing of course and have a box worth more than your car holding it all together. Besides when cops defect your gate, you'll probably cave and put twins back on.

I actually like my car looking bone stock as I have too much respect for the R32 GTR so you won't find me putting a single on. I love the twins. In terms of gay, I find brotheled engine bays with China blue silicone hoses and shiny shit gay.

2 gates on low mounts? Whata waste of time, better off using one gate and one turbo. better results half the money.

Found Receipt which says i bought them in December, so 3 months old but we're only fitted a month ago. After tossing and turning all night in fear of jeopardizing my future retirement nest egg my asking price is now NEGOTIABLE.

I thought so too, aussie kw as well. If you convert that to American kilowatts you can almost double it

Once sold I will consider retirement

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Moral of the story make sure your turbine wheel can discharge the gas that your compressor is pumping into it or your GTRs/-10/gt2871 turbo will be laggy then come on and choke it's own ass [emoji85]

I know of a Rb26 stagea making 470rwkw with just one 460 in tank pump, admittedly it had a single precision turbo which didn't require as much boost as a set of twins would need to make same power. I Think it was 25psi.. so pressure working the against the pump via the reg would have been minimal.

Pm Replied

Stainless internals suitable for all fuels as it's a genuine flex fuel injector straight plug in to RB26 injector harness and comes with height adapter cups to fit factory RB26 fuel rail + rubber seals were nicely lubed up so you can read use if you like. Reason for sale going even bigger, only used in car 3 times once for the run in 98 tune and 2 times on the Road as I've been busy with work I've hardly had time to drive my car so there basically new. Quick sale $570 shipped within aus price not neg

If your happy with close enough than that'll work. I wouldn't settle for that myself. changing VE on base map to 80% at idle is not correct approach your best to Change the Dead times which is clearly the issue everything else is a band-aid approach that's all I'm saying. Workshops do all sorts of weird and wonderful things unfortunately. For every awesome successful build that happens I'm sure there's 10 that we don't hear of that are horror stories just saying.

Yes you will hit stoich but choking you're dead times to decrease fuel supply to your fuel map is bodgie hard that's not the way to get your afr's correct and all your numbers will be ass about in your base map which is your foundation so it needs to be perfect before any subfolders are corrected otherwise you will chase your tail forever and never have anything working correctly. so all your correction maps will never be correct. Even cold start percentages like intake temperature corr and so forth. If you put your high beams on I bet you your air fuel ratio changes? this is what dead time is all about.

Many tuners do all sorts of things to get that I agree but it's called close enough. 80% VE at idle is not a good idea and you'll quickly be pulling plugs out from fouling. The correct data would be voltage vs fuel pressure = lag time

Not sure on brand but it seems to be a 3" off the shelf jap item, I wanted to keep it but i needed a 3.5". Looks very clean and stockish on a std 32 which I like and a quiet note (zero attention from cops) Asking $550 ono

Turbo is a nugget doesn't matter what engine is bolted to it's garbage much better options out there especially for the money they ask. you just have to measure the front compressor wheel and then measure the turbine wheel. it's the same as boosting your car to 50 psi and leaving the 2 inch exhaust on who cares what air you can get in you'll never get it out.

Setting idle fuel load cells with a VE of 80 on most engines would be throwing mixtures in the mid to high 11's and possibly even deeper into the 10's or more as VE is dependent on the VE of an engine, all are different.if the engine has cams and some brappy overlap good chance you'll be adding way too much fuel in those load sites causing the car to stall at an instant. Instant plug foul. I'm not sure how your example can give you a accurate dead time as dead Times need to be measured over voltage and fuel rail pressure. that data cannot be obtained while it's running in a car unless you're adjusting your voltage in your car somehow and see no erratic change in your Afr. Even then you'd still be guessing

Oomph can be had from stock turbos that have had steel wheels inserted. that would be cheaper than what you're probably paying, I've got a pair here if you want.