mr skidz

I missed it. Were they reading low or something?

^tuff^

Id do good oil cooler setup and try quality 40 weight first. if temperatures remain stable with the 40 you shouldn't experience oil pressure dropping so I'd do that, if you are experiencing high oil temps again move to a 50 weight. Id never use a 60 weight unnecessary especially if you have already an oil cooler setup. too heavier oil for such a high revving motor. You want oil VOLUME in a motor not EXCESSIVE pressure.

And a graph with afr's plotted next to the line in question can tell you why it aint climbing. But i doubt its that jem know there shit.

Do you have std cams?

Apart from lack of outright power Isn't that pretty std for -5's on a 2.6L they all seem torqueless under 4500rpm. Its one of the reasons i went 2.8L.

Anyone check the wastegates arent cracking open to early which introduces a soft ramp up?

No it has nothing to do with your LSD

That happened to my car before massive pain in the ass can't even get my hand on it that's how shit the spot is right up against the firewall on the intake manifold gasket about a 4 mil chunk spat out. best way to check is pump compressed air through the pipe work after the cold side of the intercooler and test for air leaks you hear it gushing out at the back at the firewall it's in a flamin mongrel of a spot it would be easier to pull the engine out and change all your gaskets at the same time to metal ones even head gasket would be worth doing while engine is out.

Those bronze colored rims look tuff

Your very welcome

Take it to a half decent mechanic that understands this car wouldn't cost much at all to have your base timing checked it's a 5 minute job. Just a short lead for plug number 1 and a timing light and a 10 mil spanner

Knock it back if your fuel is crap

Make sure your crank angle sensor is set correctly also you can also get pinging with the factory computer also.

I honestly can't answer that I've never had a car that porely tuned that would knock by freely revving it in saying that anything's possible.Pinging generally shows up when intake air temperature increases directly from Boost that is the reason why it's so important to have timing correct as boost is introduced to the map and also enough fuel to cool the combustion temps avoiding detonation altogether you should never have detonation.

Safer man, Guessing is too expensive with these cars

why pay if you can get something for free?That's like saying just because you're buying a Ferrari and can afford one doesn't mean you cant look to save a buck..

To guage why its knocking. Your injector map might have enough fueling in the table but that doesn't mean it's physically going into the motor so I changing to a standard computer won't help a blocked or tired fuel filter fuel pump injectors excetra could even be a fuel Reg not holding pressure who knows give it to the Experts. So many variables

Just make sure there's an RB in there. looks like a pac performance demo car, they might have put a 20B in it. But seriously its rare and that itself is a good thing and at the end of the day the only person that it needs to impress is you. Unless someone is willing to buy it for you.

That's like putting a skirt on your son

Yellow. f**k no

Need a wide band

What if your fuel pump isn't up to the task or your injectors are blocked up you won't help that you just won't be able to see the damage occurring

I'm of the Opinion that sometimes your tune may be fine for the batch of fuel you used to tune the car on initially and you can get the occasional knock from lesser quality batches of fuel also. I wouldn't be too quick to change the tune because you may be adjusting it to suite a bad batch of fuel, knock it down a few degree momentarily on your base map just to get you by if you have too and put the fuel you would normally use in it and maybe it will just settle back down again. Ignition Maps can often be set right on the edge which doesn't leave u much of a buffer for hot weather and especially when on a dyno your bonnet is usually up and engine bay is running nice n cool when on a road you could be sitting in traffic for 20 minutes with no clean air then you give it a hit and see knock. Knock of 100+ is ridiculous you should be getting a reasonably loud knock rattle even at 50 to 60% generally speaking but loosely fit motors which have been rebuilt do make more noise so it can be deceiving. if your engine is tight around the 20% knock I would accept. Pull out the coldest plug which is normally number 1 and the back plug number 6 which is the hottest and inspect also the porcelain tip of your spark plugs will show signs of detonation and and severity I of it. when I tuned my car on Optimax 98 ron I would try caltex or another 98ron and from my usual 16 to 20 percent knock reading it would shoot up to 48 50 s just by putting another brand 98 octane In i would have to remove at least 2 degrees to bring the knock back down. Hope any of that useless info helps a little

There is only one that can be used. Std GTX2860 core -5 rear housing. Aka -9 on steroids!