robbo_rb180

Yep he is an awesome bloke, we work together on that car. You will have fun at the 6hr, Tony doesn't stuff around when he goes racing does pretty well.

Also did some work to the shed and a massive clean out of stuff. It's now got a small fab/dirty room and has helped keep shed cleaner. Built some new work benches and re organised things also got a TV out there so good having something playing while working on the cars. Got a pedestal drill and linisher off a mate that need to pick up too.

A bit from column A, B and C. Mainly C Update time, after deciding it was time to tick off a bucket list goal I finished up full time at MSR and have gotten back behind the wheel and making progress on the S15. Goal has been to drive Bathurst at an event and I have had my entry accepted for Challenge Bathurst in November. Since I don't want to go unprepared I need it running to test and get comfortable. Been chipping away at it and started by stripping inside, getting it all cleaned and sealing some holes up. With stripping inside I removed the whole wiring loom and found a few surprises.......... its pretty butchered and shit branching and I'm not a fan of the haltech fuse boxes so it's all out and trying to come up with a plan to rewire it all either new fuse/relay box or pdm. I haven't been happy with how I did the intercooler mounting and been wanting to tuck it up under rad support. O e issue with that is headlights will need a decent trim or get replacement covers. Took the time to mount it with some stand off's and new hardware. Stands are some m8 button bolts, washer, aluminium tube and factory radiator top mount rubbers. It's nice and solid also stiffens rad support which still requires some trimming. Bonus of factory rad mounting is used all factory hoses just need to weld a pressure cap to radiator now. Got sensor block and fuel filter mounted. Plan today is to get vac lines all sorted with push in nylon tube and design oil cooler mounting solution. Been driving BRZ a heap and went out to Morgan Park for time attack and went pretty well for a wet day. https://youtu.be/gAlQgcQpWj4?si=kojOAOjhhX_X3AXR Getting pretty comfortable in it now and want to do a few more bits to it but restraining myself as don't need 2 race cars at the moment.

Good you making progress with this rig. Aluminium welding is painful to learn, have you got a pedal as I found it so much easier with one. If that's the AMG I think it is, you would working with Benny?

Solid update, got all the downforces now. You going to be running aus time attack again? love the jacking solution, spend the dollars on what makes it go fast is best way.

Welcome, the rb in S chassis is favourite of mine. Lots of info here and a few ways to do the swap back in the day. Post up some pics or start a build thread here https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-members-cars-project-overhauls-restorations/

yes easily doable was very common conversion around 15+ years ago Require: Sr20 cross member and engine mounts sr20 gearbox or bell housing if manual CA already sr20 loom and ecu sr20 radiator (or make a cross over pipe to us CA style radiator) sr20 engine All parts can be sourced from an s13 Will require some mods to engine loom to body loom plugs but plenty of info out there on that.

Cool piece and gone to someone who will use. Can close/delete thread

Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues.

What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly

Selling hks rb25 cast manifold and waste gate. Never going to use as don't have Rb powered car Unknown condition of waste gate diaphragm $900 Pick up only Ipswich Qld

A mate had this style seat from SAAS years ago and they were pretty comfy but the quality was not great especially after a few years. Have you looked some 86/BRZ seats? the seat warmer is great and I use it a lot. I just drove almost 2hours and no issues with comfort.

Good kit using modern components https://frenchysperformancegarage.com/products/fpg-nissan-skyline-r32-a-c-air-conditioning-replacement-kit-r134a-fpg-039?variant=43586428862642

Normal speedtek issues, bin it and go cdoo# or 8hp. So many issues with these gearsets, a mate went through 3 rebuilds and multiple parts with heat, bearing and vibration issues.

had 4 weeks off over xmas and well did some stuff to the shed and BRZ, well short of is I don't work full time in supercars anymore as of yesterday.........

Cleaner signal so timing is more accurate at all rpm also found it to start more on first rotation but could also be I've nailed prime and crank fuel. For under $400 and 30mins of your time, its a good solution especially once the optical sensor does start to play up you won't notice it until in higher rpm and it heat soaks.

The NZ wiring kit is a 1/3 the price and will be perfectly fine for your application, I've ran one for 6+ years and many others have. Comes as a full plug into factory connector and the settings for a Link. https://www.nzwiring.com/index.php/product/trigger-kit/ Always comes back to the tuners knowledge and experience with a tuning platform. It takes years to become proficient and learning all aspects and capabilities. I've been using Links for 16 years now (rb and sr paltforms) and always learning something new with adding tables, diagnostics and data logging. Stay 98 for the usability and keep it simple so you can enjoy the car more. With experience I'll give you a current example of the industry I am in. They use Motec m190 and only use VE tuning when they have a torque mapping available and would solve the "PARITY" issues that plagues the category all because the muppet doing the tuning doesn't understand the platform or want to learn it and the product seller have no idea on its full capabilities ( I had a good laugh as when firing up an older car that just got completed and they didn't understand the injector scaling or how to change it for different fuel being used)

Add these Sensors -Wideband, Oil Pressure, Fuel pressure, Intake air temp Good inspection of ignition system of coils, plugs and loom (12v feed and good ground)- a r35 kit is best bang for buck upgrade. A decent tuner should be able to see any issues with the trigger system- a link has good filtering but a good simple upgrade is the nz wiring bolt in kit. Check and replace all the fuel filters- you would be surprised at intank filter after a few years. Also good to check for any leaks on vac hoses and pipe work as has been said. No need to go overboard and spend big $$$ to enjoy the car. A quality tuner is getting harder to find as anyone with a laptop thinks they are a tuner. A link has great features to check sensor voltages and frequency inputs and easy to see live by pressing f12. The link can do a TPS & RPM fuel/ignition mapping on ITB cars then add a 4D table with MAP and ability to add a 5D to it (can help with economy at cruise with wheel speed vs TPS) Where are you located as that will help narrow down a good tuner ?

Best practice for any track day should be Bleed brake fluid, inspect rotors and pads maybe even flip pads if they are prone to tapering. Quality pad (project mu, endless, hawk, winmax, ap), Good high carbon content rotor (dba4000/5000, Ap, projectmu), Quality fluid, Good air supply over the rotor and caliper are all required for best performance at a track day no matter the car. Even the bedding in of the pad and rotor is key to longevity. I've seen so many rotors destroyed on their first track day due to it.

They work on really anything track related now. They do my mates r35 gtr and it's a weapon of a car.

I use the penrite 600f in my cars and have had no issues even at Townsville v8s when I drove that but I bled fluid end of day for just in case. Good value and a about 38-40 on sale. Use castrol srf on the supercars and no need to Bleed brakes over a race weekend. Do the 1000km with no issues. Over 120 a bottle I seen at repco. A quality brake pad is always a good starting point the ebc stuff I've seen let go after 2 sessions with heavier cars. I'd be going to a decent track pad and maybe those porsche air guides on the control arm to help with some air over the rotor. Helps on 86/brz with stock callipers.

AFM looks to be a z32 The injectors maybe old Nismo 555cc The turbo tag when looked up seems to be a gt2871 , imagine it would have the bigger rear housing .82 all look like the mid 00's mods when he started building it up. Vac hose seems right but would need to see a diagram. Great work going up there and sorting it out, be a good club car for someone wanting a good reliable rig. I know I would like to have it but no space and too many other race cars at the moment.

Welcome back, If looking for a quality workshop AK Racing are the go to for everything these days. No fancy socials or attention seeking just quality work and good people. Can do everything from general servicing to full race builds that do very well at local and international events.

I'd be looking at the mentioned EFR kit, room to turn it up if decide on e85 (which we know you will) and be super responsive and fun on the street. OR https://v8roadsters.com/product-category/engine-conversions/engine-conversion-lsx/engine-conversion-lsx-nc/?srsltid=AfmBOorrJa2S76JR5ekXprxBOtU44a1UProbe64YaiVi9zTVp1Lj814w And add whooshy noise for extra fun C5 corvette prices are coming down locally here and a mate has a manual one and is a heap of fun on the street and track.

probably around the $1700-1800 fitted in his sizes. The ar1 is heaps cheaper. Get on scumplace I got some A052 295/35/18 for $400 that had done maybe 20-25 hot laps of SMP.