robbo_rb180

Have you plugged in and looked at what sensors are doing with something like consult? Can you write a list of parts changed as that first post is difficult to read, separate Paragraphs help massively. Reset Crank Angle sensor timing and unplug the knock sensor. The key to any diagnosis is data and using consult will high light if its a sensor issue. Throwing parts at it is just guessing.

Yeah I am working the rally sprint Thursday. I'll be cruising around the pits and in field area. How good are afternoons at race tracks

Car testing went well Friday, only did a handful of laps but stays cool and brakes work. Doing some tuning too with boost control and sorting a few areas of fuel map. That confident I haven't even unloaded it, straight into the shed on the trailer still. Bring on Morgan Park Wednesday

So getting a set of rally tyres 😅 Good effort, your getting heaps of driving in lately. Maybe try something like this for the camera https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32907849445.html?pdp_npi=2%40dis!AUD!AU%248.00!AU%246.56!!!!!%402101e7f616840494441445251e8936!65967900517!btf&_t=pvid:5dd83128-542f-4630-97eb-e4eff08408e1&afTraceInfo=32907849445__pc__pcBridgePPC__xxxxxx__1684049444&spm=a2g0o.ppclist.product.mainProduct I know quadlock also do something similar https://www.quadlockcase.com.au/products/vibration-dampener?variant=32024967610481

😅

A few updates in the race car New radiator is in, required a few small mods to the shroud but all sorted and holds pressure Made up an aluminium foot plate to raise feet up so be more comfortable held in by rivnuts and some aluminium angle also swapped to a lighter battery from the old getz. A few less kg and lower weight. Just need to check tyre pressures and good to go for a test day Friday before Morgan Park next week.

A show car or "bunnings" car park meet car. A proper show car is around 150K-300K these days I can tell you right now its not going to be 6K, closer to 20K........... Had to adjust plenty of customers ideas what it really costs. ECU $3k plus Sensors will be over $600, wire, connectors, sheathing, relays PLUS TUNE easy $7k Genuine turbo and gaskets $4k Even at my pricing fuel system would be over $1600

easy $20K these days to do it properly my lateset sr20 setup is around $15k doing all the fab, wiring and mechanical myself with products that were heavily discounted. buy BMW M2 enjoy life or for the financially challenged buy a bf falcon and slap a pulsar on and be done with it if only wanting to chop ya mates

i have 300+KW at the wheels stock exhaust manifold with external gate mod. gt3076 .86 rear housing 45mm turbosmart gate 1000cc injectors top feed onversion link ecu walbro/TI 460lph pump Fuel turbosmart reg 3 inch exhaust fmic 307kw on 16psi on E85 super simple and easy to replicate You don't need an inlet manifold or throttle body. If anything 98% of inlets cause drivability and torque loss. Pretty sure @Dose Pipe Sutututu made over 400kw on stock inlet

Proper junk stay away. Turbo setup is always budget dependant.......

I've been running e85 in my 180sx for well over 8 years. Replaced filter sock after first 3 months then around 4 years later. Fuel filter gets replaced every 12ish months. Never had an issue. When stored for 6months or more always had a full tank with a bottle of additive.

Thought needed pdm for that function. When I asked link said it couldn't. Cheers for that info.

Only on g4x Get the external ethrottle unit, have used them on old g4 with no issues. Can find them cheaper than prp.

What track? Tracks in qld have a few different levels

I want the Gr86 not gr yaris 😉 Yeah sucks for him as was a great car, had been in it a few times.

Chucked on cooling system pressure tester this morning and found a pin hole leak in the bottom of the radiator on one of the fins. F*cking shitbox nissan racecar Anyone got a 2022 Toyota gr86 they want to swap me

Will look at it a bit more tomorrow. Idle has been good it needed a slight adjustment on fuel. Looking at a log it also was only making 14psi not the usual 16psi on gate pressure. So guessing they didn't tune that area too well........ Hopefully not but it would give me a chance to upgrade to a CAN lambda as still running it over a 0-5v ANVolt input. Lucky s15 has a haltech wb in it.

As I said upto 15% in some spots but on average 5-6%. The quality of the previous coils was questionable as plug gap was down to .6mm and would breakdown over 18psi or around 2 laps of QR. So now burning all the fuel injected. I am sure someone much smarter/experienced can explain it. @Dose Pipe Sutututu @Ben C34 I am wanting to get it back on a dyno but struggling to find a tuner I can trust and willing to work with me on setting up some other ecu functions.

Picking up where I left off. As usual Taarks/efi solutions delivered quickly and got staright into fitting the coil kit. Pretty easy install and replaced the spark plugs while I was there. The kit comes with new plug and pins for the cols but after removing the splitfire kit I didn't have a loom so took the oppotunity to make new one. Bought tefzel wire from local supplier and had some raychem heat shrink from previous looms. Tried a different method with measuring and planning and it turned out pretty good. With that fitted, changed dwell settings in the ecu and fired it up. Biggest thing is obvious with all the fuel being ignited is it now was running leaner so had to add fuel everywhere. Biggest place was on boost with upto 15% fuel needing to be added in places. Fitted the BM57 and bled the brakes with the help of a local mechanic. Brake pedal felt a lot better. With all the work done headed back to Lakeside for Time Attack round 2. First session out car felt good on the 2 warm up laps so went for a fast lap, brakes were great at turn 2 and kept pushing through bus stop to hungry corner but at the top of eastern loop got a big vibration again so went straight into the pits. Car was also a not coming down in temp as quick either (normally 90-92 but 92-94 on a cooler day)so a few pit laps and straight back to normal. Quick check of wheel nuts and suspension couldn't find anything so went back out for second session and did the 1 warm up and went for a fast lap. The lap was ok but lost time at the top of eastern loop with a slight correction. Ended the lap with 59.9 but decided on a second flyer but again towards middle of the lap got the vibration in the front again so pitted and a lap of pits to cool down. Parked it up and called it a day as I was instructing in the afternoon. After around a 30mins went to move the car and felt front left brake dragging....... Here's the in car from the best lap of the day. The race box mini was great paired with RaceChrono to give me more accurate data. Got a few adjustments to make tyre pressure and suspension before next time at Lakeside as car feels unsettled through the Kink and Bus Stop. Debated about how to fix the issue. Rebuild current calipers or fit the EVO brembo kit I have sitting on the shelf for the s15? Needed brake pads and rebuild kits for the EVO kit then would need another kit for the s15. With having no where to work on the still, went with a rebuild the current brakes. Found a local shop that was happy to help. After 2 days and a few $$$$ the shop had it all sorted. The Front calipers required seals and pistons were salvageable the rears though needed all new pistons with seals and front rotors were machined too. Now looking on all the track calendars to find a test/practice day to see how it goes before next time attack day. Looking at Morgan Park as haven't been there for over a year and a good variety of corners but also the cheapest as QR now requires Motorsport Australia licence for practice and sprints. Hopefully thats the brake issues now sorted and can get back to driving it for a whole day.

"Johnny's should have bought a BMW and random chat thread" One of the biggest things to with the 90s shitboxes is the nostalgia. Look at all the senior gentlemen in their chrome bumper stuff. We are now becoming those guys. Where everything was better " back in my day"

I think there's the enjoyment/challenge with building something yourself and seeing how it performs vs X Product/workshop. Like you I am way over invested in the race car and I am always thinking I should sell and buy something I can drive there, easier to maintain and better from the start but cbf dealing with people to sell it. The biggest thing is it should be fun going out and driving the car. Once that enjoyment is gone maybe look at just parking it up for a while under a cover.

You answered your question earlier 😂

I think more seat time you will be close to euro guys. After talking with some of the QLD time attack guys that went down a few weeks ago it sounds like it's racing for sheep stations down there. The euro cars definitely have the upper hand straight up.

Will happily trade you my shitbox 180sx for yours. Would have been an interesting night driving in the wet.