robbo_rb180

https://www.google.com/search?q=18x10.5+%2B18+on+r33gtr&rlz=1C1VDKB_en-GBAU953AU953&sxsrf=AJOqlzWmd5_6pW5AIkDWCNefOrfjG1OrKA:1678019283629&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwj7rM765MT9AhUP8XMBHWKXDQwQ_AUoAXoECAIQAw&biw=1826&bih=952&dpr=1.25

yes been done heaps. Google it

Look at what fittings are required and make your own. A lot neater and can sleeve them or be like @Dose Pipe Sutututu and be baller with hardlines https://aeroflowperformance.com/ httphttps://www.earls.com.au/ s://speedflow.com.au/

https://www.rimtuck.com/search/datasheet&make=Nissan&model=R31-R34+Skyline+4dr&sort=6 Have a look here or start looking back through the thread from pages 1

Good tackling the wiring.het the 02 in there as that's easy. How far off drivable after finishing wiring?

Been slow doing updates here but already done a few events this year and upgrades seem to be happening as parts needed. So to start off the year I went over the car with a thorough bolt check, grease bolts in bushes, ziptied bit up and redid all the fluids. Found one of the caliper bolts had decided to back so put a spanner to it and .......it wasn't moving. Some patience with wd40, 1/4 drive impact socket and a rattle gun had it out, The thread in the caliper was not bad and a tap cleaned out the debirs. New bolts with a washer and no problems since. Got a new windscreen fitted as old one had a lot of chips and developed a crack last time out. Fresh screen was sourced and fitted locally. Next up were new tyres the old A050 were well worn and 2 were almost slicks. I had a choice either spend the dollars and go another set or try the Nankang CR-S. I have been part of the testing of the CR-S so I know the Pro's and Con's of both tyres and with the aim of focusing on time attack I went with the Nankang CR-S, having a hook up for them also helps. At the same time I got another wheel alignment. With all this done I headed out to Lakeside Park for a sprint session with a few of the Skid Control crew to pretty much go get that monkey off my back after my last visit on the whole track.......... Weather was looking not great through out the morning then the organisers thought it would be great to let people take passengers at 70% pace on a wet circuit, one written off 2023 BRZ and damaged BMW later caused a hold up so lots of waiting. Finally got out on track and scrubbed in the tyres for 2 laps then had a go at a fast lap. I think I did a 62 with a heap of traffic, which isn't slow but isn't fast. Tyres were great and I was feeling pretty good after that. Headed back out for next session knowing if there was no traffic I could go a second quicker. Did a decent warm up lap then went for it, seeing green on the racechrono I kept pushing and was up a lot by Hungry corner. Coming down the hill then across the line I saw green and a 59.89. Finished up the session and cruised back in to the pits to one of my mate stopping me in the pit lane and told me the official time of a 59.0!!!!! https://www.facebook.com/100000026398820/videos/568597401864367/ excuse the belts in front of the camera In car of the lap https://www.facebook.com/100000026398820/videos/3462819007280321/ So after that I decided it was time for new brake rotors and pads. I had been planning to get Endless ME20 but non in the country or Japan until at least end of May so went with Project Mu RC09 pads and the usual DBA4000 rotors. Easy fit up and done in a few hours. Wheels got a good scrub too All this was in preparation for Time Attack round 1 at QR. the old brakes wouldn't last 1 session. First session I used to bed in the brakes and get a feel for them, towards the end of the 5 laps I got a vibration through the steering and pulled of cooled it down with a few laps out back of pits. Car really need me to give it throttle to move too......... Got into pits and no visible signs. Jacked it up and took off the wheels, deceided to crack the caliper bleed nipple and pressuirsed fluid came out so went and bled the system, brakes felt good, quick spanner check, refitted wheels and re torqued the nuts. Session 2 got a good warm up lap in and went for it on the first lap but missed my brake marker then forgot to down shift to 4th quickly, slightly turned in late at turn 1 but was up on racechrono, turn 2 was good through dipper I was a bit late on brakes got the apex but didn't stay to the right enough for the left up hill managed to get the apex with a good exit. Down towards the next corner I nailed the braking and turnd in got the apex, then left into the final corner but turned in too early and ended up having to double apex but got on the power early enough. Crossed the line with a 57.29 on racechrono. Thought I would go for another fast lap, nailed turn 1 this time but all of a sudden got the shake in the steering again 😬 Pulled off the track layout so session wasn't held up. Ended up with official time of 57.26 which I am happy with and qualified for Holy Grail lap time going sub 58. Got back to pits with same issue. A few calls and messages to people and looks like return valve failed on the BMC, a GKTeck/Holfords one. Seems they don't like the heat. As wel as the brakes the coils were getting hot causing a misfire too so pulled the pin on it. The one proper lap I got So already have bought genuine BM57, Taarks r35 coil kit and a Race Box Mini for better data. Parts should turn up next week, get them fitted and then head back out for round 2 at Lakeside and better my PB there.

https://jhhracing.com.au/ https://www.gtautogarage.com.au/ https://101motorsport.com.au/ they are the 3 big ones that come to mind.

Previously ran a greddy and q45. Had poor drivabilty down low. Either go stock with adaptor or DBW. OR Plazmaman plenum and DBW, highly recommend that as totally changed my car with lots more torque everywhere.

15-50 Penrite 10tenths around 30psi at idle at 90c Coolant temp but thats after a run. I'd be talking with who is building engine and go with their recommendation.

I've been running one for over 10 years. Never an issue with pressure and seen plenty of track time. no point trying to reinvent the wheel

Welcome, Should be able to jump on the motorsport Australia website (formly CAMS) and see what events are on locally andcan get the basic speed licencethere. The bend or Shepparton deca would be the 2 closet places to you?

Welcome Matt, That looks like a tidy example. What are plans for it?

You will need to cut out part of your rubber engine mount. I tried running a gt3076r but it fouled on my chassis rail (S chassis)

@funkymonkey do it We need @Dose Pipe Sutututuin a BMW so we can stop hearing about him wanting a BMW

Okay, well go find the best example of a r32 gts4 that fits criteria and budget 😁 If your going to do any wiring/tuning stuff I highly recommend the HPA courses. Painting is painful but all in the prep. Fabrication of alloy and stainless is fun but time consuming Composites are cool but way too time consuming Its rewarding when you do it yourself. There is rumour of a dct to awd adapter being made. From everyone I know thats done a dct swap the turbolamik is the way or wait for the Australian version from Mectric Motorsport still cheaper than a samsonas 😛 Wait out on ecu as Link and Motec both have something new coming. Its okay to bin the rb20 for a k24 Find that questionable income Happy modding and good luck with bad choices

Really comes down to budget and what your doing with it? Decent 32 gtr is around 60-79K ish then another 50-100k to fix it properly after the last 20 owners have fcuked with it. Go drive one first then go drive something modern from 2015 onwards. See how bad they are and then go buy the newer car. @Dose Pipe Sutututu tell him he should buy a BMW and live the life of not always fixing sheit bok 😂 I am off old nissan's as street cars at the moment, I have found my 370z is a good in between compromise of can tinker with it and has some modern features.

I have nyloc nuts on a few of my gktech arms and they have been fine so far. I do try and bolt check the car after a few events. The nankang Ar1 is great for the money. Tyre pressure is key and depending on how you heat cycle and length of time you have them, they fell off for me after around 12 months but I think humidty played a part in that. What type of events you using the 34 for? I do sprits/time attack and just switched to the Nankang CR-S, switched from the advan a050. It has same if not more grip than the a050 but is only really good for 1 fast lap at 100% and is sensitive to aggressive surface temp changes.

Your still driving this boat, thought you would have that bmw already. The western Sydney locals aren't selling enough kebabs? I found a cheap way to keep the belt on was use a 5mm shorter one. Seems to have worked for me. I think my balancer is a 2010ish Ross one. If you decide to go electric a company in qld converts steering shaft with electric motors instead. A lot of the drifters are going that way, sure could use a PWM output on the kebabtech to control feeling.

Kyle is very busy and generally takes 3-5days to reply. I have a lot of their product on one of my cars and it's good quality worth the wait for. Could try jsai as they do a lot of lip kits

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/707351387664345/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A5becc103-a884-4e65-93b8-d955e64cf3b4

As been said HR swap is not any real improvement vs money. 2 options are boost or LS swap it. Boost can be reliable but power gains are low for cost. then you have the issues of keeping it cool on track. LS is the way especially a track only car. LS parts are everywhere, big aftermarket and reliable power from a stock engine with a decent cooling system. EDIT Sell it and buy a 370z. Faster than a basic modified V35/350z out of the box.

The motorsport one, I had all the others already. Clubsport one is a bit dry but still great for learning. I'm having a shed built next month and been looking at coating the floor. Was price reasonable to get done? I've done a small area myself before and it was time consuming but lasted 6 years with no issues.

That garage floor looks great. What did you use? Good work on the loom, I've brought the hpa motorsport wiring course and keen do some fancy stuff on the new car.

Its always seems easier when you think about, I know I have fallen into that trap. Great you persevered with it and have got it on the road So this was the car Hollands was chasing all those bits for.

Welcome, Whats the plans for paint? If going to keep a build thread start a post in here https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/190-projects-overhauls-and-build-ups/