robbo_rb180

That's an odd size tyre and why expensive, better off going 255 IN 17s or step up to 265 in 18s. Your in Brisbane area? Try keith4wheels at underwood. Pricing should be better on nankangs through him. Another budget option IF you can find them is the nexen sur4g. Found them better than the ns2r on cars I've driven. Found running square setups helps as I would rotate tyres more frequently to get the most out of them.

How much street driving? Daily driver or weekender with odd week day? My daily I'm happy with 15000km with odd fun day at a motorkhana/sprint. Currently on Michelin ps4s Thought about going to nankang crs for track tyres?

For the pedal a 350z/g35 pedal bolts up no need for the bosch pedal and can be bought for much cheaper.

Seeing stock/lightly modified skylines these days is cool. The old reliable and proven rb25 hiflow, injectors and tune combo 220-230kw is good for the Sunday cruise car. Especially if you already have a quick LS powered boat.

pending budget and what you intend to do with it have you considered a rb52/30, vq35/37 or LS conversion? The VQ or LS may cost a little bit more initially to setup and get going but long term and parts availability good option. Parts everywhere and most repco has it on the shelf.

I've used their sr20 rebuild kit and it was fine. Just make sure you know what bearing sizes you require. Is the r32 going to be registered?

https://www.efihardware.com/products/331/air-temp-sensor-Delco-14mm ^^ something similiar to this. Cheap, reliable and available everywhere as General Motors (GM) used it. Pressure sensor. Bosch/honeywell are most common and reliable. https://www.efihardware.com/products/3300/pressure-sensor-150psi-10bar-honeywell

That is normal to have a controller wired to the old g4 series to an ANVolt input. Once configured can see it on PCLink, I have been doing that for 10+ years with older links. CAN is better but not available on a G4. Yes, wire the pressure sensors to ANVolt inputs. Need to also wire them to +5v and sensor ground.

Yes replace the nissan IAT with a GM style one. With the Link ecu you want IAT and Wideband sensors at a minimum can add Oil and fuel pressure and utilise the safety strategies.

Mazda 3, hyundai I20/30, corolla and use the left over budget on some driver training. Try and help get rid of bad habits from who has taught her.

Yeah seems to be UK after a quick google. Anything that modified will require some form of constant maintenance. Pretty good parts but are you going to use the car to its potential?

no parts will swap over and the amount of money to get any performance out of that motor is wasted as be no worth while gain. Save $$$$ and swap to a rb25det or rb30det in the future.

Your in USA? guessing thats the youtube guy that builds and flips cars. 600hp USA is around 200hp in Australian dyno figures 😂

This is how my 180sx is. I have also set up nissan IRS in nissan minitruck style builds to have full travel of the suspension with low static heights of around 70-80mm 180sx is 1200kg with driver 255/40/17 semi slick You want it worst case parallel but I have found it slightly angled down towards outside is better. I run rear camber 2.3 degrees, Toe in 0.9-1.2mm eash side Ride height of around 105-112mm. Apologies for hijacking

They really have flogged that horse.... Its a 15 year old car now and really needs to be replaced.

My experience with rod knock was similar 1. Not always, depends on how bad bearing is 2. I couldn't hear mine at idle but noise was there as soon as throttle applied 3. My temps were fine 4.depends on the damage, how much bearing is worn 5. I coundn't see anything 6. Never had it but had turbine fins hit my car maybe a case of pull the engine and check it.

22 years of this forum would hope so use the search function plenty of information. I have a forged rb25, yes it makes good power, I run the r33 gearbox(in a schassis, its tight), Use stock manifold or a plazmaman plenum. And because I am in a good mood, read everything.....the reread everything then ask questions. Everything has been answered. https://www.sau.com.au/forums/forum/8-forced-induction-performance/

Its great not having extra stuff on the dash, been using realdash for a while, setup just took a bit of time to get what gauges & setup I wanted.

Its generally clutch kicking and launches with aggressive clutch setups. One in particular was a turbo LS drift car running 265 semi's

For reference rb25neo, tdo5, short runner intake manifold vs same car stock manifold. So much lag and loss of torque. Green stock Blue aftermarket

If you like no low/mid range torque go for it Biggest waste of money and performance especially all the fake/copy stuff. This is the only aftermarket plenum to run https://plazmaman.com/product/rb25-det-r33-skyline-inlet-plenum/ Add DBW and an aftermarket ecu makes it great for drivability and torque everywhere. Can control air velocity by open/close TB at certain rpm/load *** I previously ran a genuine greddy & q45 TB best thing I did was go plazmaman plenum & DBW***

Everyone I know breaks the gears not centres. All are running either welded or aftermarket centres. There are 2 different teeth sets with r200 and the wider/deeper tooth is what is preferred.

get a scan tool and check codes would be a good start and find a copy of a maintenance manual and run through the diagnosis procedure.

They are amazing. Worth the money, th epro comfort or sports are great for daily. My car is all brand new whiteline rubber bushes, MCA X-R coilovers, whiteline sway bars and gktech castor, toe, traction & camber arms. Rides better than my 370z and when you hit bumps its a gentle movement where my tein superstreets went bang.

Keep them long, you put in good detail of how you thought about doing things and the process of doing it. I am always looking at things I've stuffed up. It use to upset me a heap but now I think of it as a lesson as we are all learning as we go on our cars especially bodywork/paint and fabrication.