robbo_rb180

drop tire pressures and see how it goes. Website says don't go below 13psi recommended is 14-18psi.

Need to use the matching bracket to subframe. r32 cross member to rb20 brackets r33 cross member to rb25 brackets r33/rb25 from memory have 2 types of bracket a steel and cast aluminium. Project cars are fun aren't they.........

Welcome, What rb's do you have?

Its a copy of another companies...... Say bye to low/mid range torque. Plazmaman plenum and DBW is way to go. Their rail bolts on too with no issues.

Theres a few good places here in Qld that can clean and flow your injectors. Brisbane Fuel Injection Longboost performance Golebys Parts Pretty sure some Cooldrive stores do injector cleaning. I feel your pain on remote location tax. Most economical way is to remove injectors and get them cleaned. Besides that brand new from nissan are the only other option as anything else may require injector and MAF rescale which in NT is not going to happen.

Thats pretty good, could you feel a difference?

If unable to Nistune in the timeframe look at the ec/tcs/abs diagrams to see what voltage is required so no error appears. May be able to trick it with the right resistor/diode in the circuit as we did that on a mates r34 na +T setup to fake a few signals.

good progress, roof and doors will definitely shave a few KGs and help with balalnce. Chasing them small gains now, did you find a lot of the adjustable arms needed resetting?

I'd be using a meter set to ohms and checking resistance of the wires. Also don't want too much voltage as well 14.2-14.3 is plenty.

12.8-13.2l per 100km on e85 on a 3000km roadtrip. I use a 4d fuel map that leans out at light throttle cruise 4-12% tps at 1500-2400rpm. Improved economy and didn't ruin the VE fuel map with silly dips. Yet to run 98 as car rarely is driven

over 5 years ago....... Take a guess.

Almost the ultimate bogan chariot but needs 2 doors for that title. Get onto a suspension shop about a decent rear setup. That tyre can work with the right setup. 4l80 or 6l80 an option for you? t400 is getting hard to find now and decent internals https://www.facebook.com/BrinksPerformance/posts/624930669420914

This was the adapter I bought https://au.element14.com/seeed-studio/114991193/adapter-usb-to-can-analyzer-1/dp/3932091?gclid=Cj0KCQjwkt6aBhDKARIsAAyeLJ2VuduYWnm6gfg9w7030eEUM4jtr17B3FVLd_T9sKSuhZPCBZdVVFYaAsnxEALw_wcB&mckv=_dm|pcrid||pkw||pmt||slid||product|3932091|pgrid||ptaid||&CMP=KNC-GAU-GEN-SHOPPING-PLA-PMAX

I am still using g4+ so heaps simpler. G4X needs an adapter, needs to be run on can2 to the adapter. I'll see if I can find the adapter I bought to test with.

Hey Duncan, Yeah pinball machine is going to fund next mods. Good game to being a star wars premium. I have the usb tuning cable running to the head unit then run realdash app http://realdash.net/index.php You can run it over CAN to a usb adapter the info is on the site. I have found it great to use once you get use to it and setup. If you want to get fancier and send messages over CAN if ecu can do it there is the toucan device https://www.hawkemotorsport.co.uk/Store/jti-toucan-display

Right foot should be able to help a little, I am more concerned about the sr gearbox. Cheers, currently old splitfires but looking at Taarks or PRP R35 kits. Minister of finance has agreed to mods but need to sell my pinball machine to fund it. First world problems.

Well made it to the dyno and all run in with a soft base setup. Made 261kw and 450nm on 18psi. VID_53020202_200818_689.mp4 Held it back as concerned about breaking the sr gearbox so Looking at the 350/370z gearbox conversion and a r35 coilpack setup as was breaking down at 20psi. Got to now rebleed the brakes, adjust front camber washers as struggled getting tie down straps on, fit rear wheels and get an alignment. Looking at 10th November for first outing at QR to shake it down and see what else needs sorting before committing to events next year.

trust the wife as mine was right about the sil80. Once you guys get a bigger place I am sure the you will get to scratch that bmw itch.

So guessing no bmw purchase then......... Loving that you are committed to getting this car back to better factory. Its all these little bits that make a street car nice.

Got to drive it for that to happen............. that setup is great super reliable, drives how I like. Just need that cruise & traction control setup and maybe a new gearbox and clutch. Race cars get all my attention at the moment. @SKYMAGGOT no point slap bits and pieces here and there, ends up costing more and takes longer. Do it once and do everything at once. Write down what you want to achieve with a setup and go in a few cars that are similiar to what you want and just work towards that.

I have the old 256 poncams ,old gt3076r on factory manifold externally gated. Around 16-17psi on e85 is around 320kw. Very responsive on the street and track. Revs to about 7000rpm. Its more of a 2008-2010 spec era setup only benefit I have is drive by wire. These days I'd wouldn't even bother with cams unless going for big power(400+kw).

yep, saw rb20 and staright to r32. Add these to the to do list: Get a consult cable and check for error codes Clean MAF Clean IACV @PranK is it time we do a Pinned generic fault to do check list thread?

If this is happening as car gets warmer I'd be looking at the following: Ignitor module Coil packs Fuel pump and associated electrical components. Alternator output voltage Also check that the motor is grounded back to the chassis and all grounds are clean.

Welcome, Is the new car for daily duties?

I have found pulsar and patrol buckles to work with my s chassis seat belts in the past. Need some modding to get the length and bolt hole right. Those recaros are so good, love them in my Z. Shame no provision for a 5/6 point harness.