robbo_rb180

I have run everything from centre mount Defi setup, a pillar mounted autometer, powertune digital display on the column. I now use the realdash app on my head unit. Heaps cleaner, multiple custom display setups and connects to ecu over usb/CAN. Doesn't draw attention or standout. Google is your friend for pics.

I got mine after @Dose Pipe Sutututu and had no issues with the pinning of it so may have a been an early issue or someone was a bit lazy that day. Cheers for posting the arming voltage too as mine takes a few goes to fire on first crank. Fuel and timing haven't helped so will try this.

The haltech controls it once its installed and a 2d or 3d duty cycle map controls its output, can be setup as open or closed loop. I would recommend not installing it atm and wait until the haltech is installed with the mac valve installed at same time and then tuned. a potentiometer can installed wired to the ecu to control levels of boost via voltage. Another way is a 3d table with rpm vs tps or rpm vs ethanol or wheel speed vs rpm, even one of the mentioned with another overlay of the combinations. End of the day the haltech needs to be installed with the mac valve to make use of it.

Looks like an s chassis sr20 subframe

I'd say the biggest issue will be the 2 cheap fans on it that came with the radiator. Ditch them and get the factory clutch fan and shroud on. The cheap stuff doesn't move enough air. The only electric fans worth putting on are either spal or maradyne. In 14 or 16 inch with proper shroud. I use cheaper radiators but always use factory fan or the mentioned electric ones with no issues.

Cheers, no issues with damage there as Duncan said it's out of the way in any major incident. Yep exactly same reason I have the cooler on the back of the radiator for that just in case. The reason we angled it was to get the fitting work but great to know for changes.

Welcome, This forum is still a thing. Nice looking r32, you'll find a few Kiwi's on here.

I didn't like how I had run the oil lines for the remote filter and cooler was in a bit of rush when i did it so while it's been apart fabbed a plate to move the filter and cut through the wheel tub. Came up nice and lots less hose was able to cut down the old line. New motor is running, had a small issue with the trigger setup but got it sorted and fired up with really good oil pressure. 20221013_144104.mp4 With motivation high decided to fit the new MCA Reds I bought back in February. These are nice, sets of different camber washers, new hardware and heights set. I had been swapping the coilovers between the 2 180sx for years. Looking forward to testing them out. Now that its all back together will hopefully have dyno booked next week for run in and tune. May finally get on track with it this year 😅

https://www.rimtuck.com/

Good to hear, I was planning on mounting a baton light off the wall to light up engine bays. Maybe even a bracket to angle down a bit.

Nice upgrades, how have you found the lights? Looking to use something similiar and wondering how they go with brightness and spread. Hoist is the best thing makes it enjoyable to work on cars being comfortable. I have old office chairs to sit on BUT one problem you'll find is can't go without one once you have had it.

I think theres a bit more too it than that. But swapping heads from one manufacturer has been done off the top of my head is the ford crossflow onto holden 202 as bore spacing is the same. A new casting of the rb twin cam head would be great, solid lifter, dual VVT, quality aluminium, bigger headstud provision and with a new bottom end see rb live on like the sbc. One reason too running a cast block over a billet is race class rules. IPRA have been stuffing the ford v8 people around allowing then not allowing certain cast blocks too.

Speedmaster have pretty much been just copying parts from all the other companies over the years. Quality has been poor on a few of their copied items. I haven't used used one or know anyone with one of these but why risk it buy a genuine Nitto pump and be confident in that. Otherwise just buy billet gears from one of the other quality suppliers.

They are now of the right age where they are collectable and the clean genuine cars will sell. That 32 looks tidy, need to get him on here and post up details.

There's a lot of stuff for sale and it's not selling even significant price drops they still sit. The quality of some of the cars is questionable but even some cleaner examples aren't selling. Big thing as well is the demographic that generally wants these types of cars don't have extra dollars to throw around either. Wait til banks up loan repayments and rental home owners up rent, will see a lot of cars hit the market which would be a good time to purchase as market will be flooded so have more bargaining power. Super clean low km cars will sell but that is a very small niche market these days. Even samething with parts. With how inflated the market was seeing it come back to where it should be if not may see another drop soon. I have even considered buying a clean s14 for mid 30s as its a model I like and if right colour pops up may find I'll pull the trigger but again very niche thing being low km, condition, colour and mods. Look at my new race car, the guy I bought it off had no real interest besides me and I got an epic deal on that. Yes very niche thing but if no interest people will sell at reduced price. There's a few 32gtr for sale even at very reasonable money from stockish to decently modified. All just over 50k to 95k. They would have sold last year quickly. Also south of qld there's quiet a lot more recreational pharmacist's and kebab shops with money they need to "invest" so see more cars selling in those areas. Doses car will sell if put out there I reckon 45-60k depending on what power cruise/roll race event would be coming up as better to sell when events like that are on to make a bit more as be demand for it just need to put some et streets on the rear.

Yeah don't do it. Car is almost perfect and is easy to work on and modify. Park it in shed put a cover on it and let it sit there. Think you missed the market by 3-4 months for getting good money and not worth the hassle dealing with F*(ktards.

I've PM'd you For everyone following: There is definitely issue with more air and it wouldn't actually go into Idle as wasn't meeting all parameters so I have gone a Closed Loop idle and Ignition control conditions changed to hopefully get some good data. Reason was showing 10-25 as its targeting what is commanded on Ign 1 Table at those rpm. Adjusting offset won't help It only locks timing when setting the offset. Hopefully once throttle stop is adjusted and new file is loaded and logged we'll have him sorted.

The idle target is set too high in the tune 1300rpm and alidle day cycle is too high. When I am home tomorrow I'll modify a tune and send it to you then log it and we will get you sorted. Good work getting tps and timing done. Ecu wouldn't have been meeting idle conditions.

Had same problem with my rb25 manifold. Looked what studs were fowling and made those manifold holes a bit bigger with a die grinder. Should only take a few minutes to do.

@eric240sx we have was a while ago. To get the offset 100% right car needs to be running But get get ballpark as Duncan said justcat cranking. You add or subtract from the current -86 offset. I usually add 5 first time to see which way offset needs to go. Can easily see it on the balancer marks if you can't see the marks timing is way out. Ensure that there are no leaks in manifold, throttle body, iacv. Check all the grounds are attached from block to chassis and the one from the loom to the plenum is clean. Battery is charged. When checking the timing don't use the loop wire. Get an ignition lead to go between coil and spark plug and clip the reference lead on there. Will need a retune with the bigger housing but I can setup a lambda table so can do quick tune with it so can drive it to the tuner.

Could have ignition idle control setup, there may be a timing offset with temp and OP said they had touched IACV so could be a bit of everything making run poorly.

Give me an hour and can do a screen grab to follow duncans guide. Super simple to do. BUT don't drive it until set.

What's the end goal weekend cruiser/daily? 100% do all the bushes with whiteline rubber not other brands urethane. MCA are the way to go, yes more expensive but ride quality is better and support is great. Been running their x-r purples (current pro sports model) for 7 years no issues and do a lot of street and track driving. Even big 2800km roadtrips on shit roads it rides better than my 370z. I look at it this way takes say 4 months to save for cheaper ones then you don't like them then need to save for another 6 months to replace them with MCA. Better off waiting an extra month or 2.

Thats the info I needed, Legend. I better start looking for a decent LS conversion kit.

holinger, albins, OS88, HTG, PPG, Samsonas, Turbo 400, Powerglide....... Google Strongest r32/33/34 gearbox