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robbo_rb180

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Everything posted by robbo_rb180

  1. robbo_rb180
    Get some pics up of the tools your making/using be handy for others. This is going to worth all the effort. Good idea with the booth/tarps. I've used a 6x3 gazebo & industrial wrap on the sides with good success.
  2. robbo_rb180
    yep but lesson learned. Shed progress has small things happening but looking like its not going exactly where we planned, still no date as catching up on back log. At least have a concreter now
  3. robbo_rb180
    He has a great attitude on safety and good to hear he is pushing it on customers.
  4. robbo_rb180
    Back into this today as had some motivation. Spent the day swapping intake & exhaust stuff over. Previous owner of the new motor must have used a rattle gun everything as took a bit of effort to remove water inlet/outlet and fittings in the block. As usual with old nissan stuff one of the last intake manifold threads decided to not exist anymore so add that to the list to fix in a week when working on it again. Bought a electric pump to prime the new system and need a few fittings to finish new oil lines. And as we were disassembling the old motor my mate was looking at the intake ports and found a nice crack in cyl 3 port 😪 Can just see the crack in the top so I've either gone to aggressive with the port or the new guide was sent a bit too hard So that head is toast and need a new plan for my s15 as this motor was going to be rebuilt to go in that. Mates back from shift next wednesday and plan is to have it in and started friday hopefully.
  5. robbo_rb180
    Not sold. NS was part of the hardtuned brand and everything that falls under that more branding/merch stuff these days. From what I've gathered the hosting fee's aren't paid any more and it was shut down.
  6. robbo_rb180
    Yeah its making it a bigger job and more time off the road. Your right most of its hidden so won't see it just a good clean will be fine there. Its a slippery slope with tidying up/restoring a car thats why I haven't fixed my wifes HQ. Need to pull half of it apart to fix a few little things but it would be mostly stripped at that point and I hate half doing things.
  7. robbo_rb180
    you've come this far....... may as well do the rear now too as be heaps easier doing it in one hit. Cars on the hoist so subframe is easy to remove.
  8. robbo_rb180
    Where are you located as some members can recommend quality honest workshops. Those 2 options are ridiculous.
  9. robbo_rb180
    Measure from backing plate from the side and top and then from bottom timing cover to roughly find center. Cut with a hole saw slightly smaller them test fit and trim where needed. I have cut a factory one and and used a few measurements off car to get it about right with a few mm of clearance and filed where needed.
  10. robbo_rb180
    1. Get a consult cable and scan for codes. 2. Leak down test to check if valves & rings are sealing. 3. If no error codes, get wideband and check AFR/Lambda That 5th plug looks to have oil on it so either rings or valve stem seal could be the issue These cars are 30 years old and probably have not had all scheduled maintenance done and been flogged over their many owners. From failing optical sensors in CAS to blocked fuel filters. So many issues with them these days hard to diagnose with out seeing car in person.
  11. robbo_rb180
    So a vr30ddtt?? Yes looked into it. Waiting to see how the new Z goes first. Its been done a heap in the USA heaps, wiring is not to hard. Definitely budget well over 25k for a shop to do everything. Allow for small things like hoses, clamps, exhaust, bigger heat exchanger, even possible brake upgrade to meet engineering requirements. Allow something like this a few months to be done. If wanting power its easier to attach a blower, exhaust, fuel system or one of the BTW turbo kits and retune or buy just the inifiniti East Coast Customs don't really do conversion stuff any more but would be able to tune it or do the above work. Boys have been flat out and I know are pretty much booked for the rest of the year.
  12. robbo_rb180
    FYP 😜 I want to see the carnage The pulleys are a waste if just wanting fancy blue ones. Remove your current ones, clean them and get them anodized. Only time to change is when required to under drive power steering & alternator if spending alot of time in high rpm (ie...on race track)
  13. robbo_rb180
    As others have said an upgraded rad and stock fan & SHROUD will have no issues. If ever swap to electric fan use a quality spal or maradyne fan with a properly designed shroud. Biggest thing is bleeding the system properly to remove all air pockets, a vacuum bleeder does a pretty good job first time.
  14. robbo_rb180
    Sounds more like future proofing for more displacement 😁 How big were your headers again? What did you say??
  15. robbo_rb180
    Use to get a similiar noise on s14 with vct would make similiar noise. Could be nosiey VCT?
  16. robbo_rb180
    Nice work on the cart. Definitely needs a clean. I've use degreaser, scotch brite, stainless wool and pressure cleaner generally gets all the grime. Going to be worth the effort and be tidy when all done.
  17. robbo_rb180
    if serious its worth the money, Racechrono with a bluetooth gps is best bang for buck for 97% of people. At $1400 the garmin is going to make you faster but to get even better at much greater expense going to need a lot of sensors on the car TP, Speed, Brake pressure, 3 axis accelerometer, steering angle and shock travel, tyre pressure & temp (internal & external) PLUS someone who understands it all and driver willing to listen and take it in. If at the track once a month minimum Garmin is good value. Maybe once every 3 months Racechrono and GPS module. If just want to be a baller sensors on everything with a good engineer. What everyone needs is a weekend of professional instruction & coaching then seat time, seat time, seat time. I have found that more useful than gadgets.
  18. robbo_rb180
    Great got it out, how did you find the garmin? So when next day booked? Is it an older sensor? 4.2 or 4.9 ,interesting its failed. Ic7 is a big unit, if did something smaller like the Aim would be better and not as intrusive.
  19. robbo_rb180
    Yay no need to pull motor out. So Nexus, IC7 and new sensors?? Where is the wideband sensor? I have actually been putting them further down stream these days so not coping all the heat.
  20. robbo_rb180
    With those codes I would have said Cam or Crank sensors but they were replaced. Were brand new genuine or 2nd hande? Have you cleaned or checked cam control solenoid? I know on subaru's these will some time get gunked up or jammed with debris and filter baskets require cleaning
  21. robbo_rb180
    Don't you have the race logic traction control now? So should be good for traction We change wheels and tyres for the road section on road trip stuff. Radials aren't fun on long drives. If you don't have miss matched wheels are you even drive a commoodore? I get the whole it looks same wheel setup have a go with the 17s and traction control setup should be a big difference.
  22. robbo_rb180
    I'd be running the 15s with 255 et street as more side wall. The smaller side wall 17s will really require a softer spring to get it to work properly. Chuck them on when heading out to the drags and or throw in the boot with a floor jack and change there. If really wanting a lower 60 ft thats the easiest option.
  23. robbo_rb180
    Weather looking good up at Morgan Park, QR and Lakeside........
  24. robbo_rb180
    100000% this A helmet with Hans post can be found for 450ish (racelids) but bell is around 1100ish last time looked and a Hans around 400. Definitely get harness suited for Hans 2 inch over Hans back to 3inch as heaps more comfortable. The raceworks/mvp ones are good value and buckles/adjusters are nice. Looking forward to hearing how it goes on track. Going to pretty quick on the straight.
  25. robbo_rb180
    From my quick mock up off car they fit, caliper to wheel face is the issue most people have. I don't really want to go 18s as will have to buy a heap of new wheels probably go 18 x 9.5 to 10 to get 295 as have to be worth the upgrade and then the knock on effect is will need wide body guards. Trying to keep the car close to IPRA spec just incase I want to run in that. Really need my shed up and car here so I can test mount everything. Car is 40mins away and I CBF dragging parts out there, jacking car up outside and working on the ground. Hoist has ruined me 😂 Evo brembo uses a different pad that is bigger, cheaper and more compounds available.
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