robbo_rb180

Contact East Coast Customs they have been working on them for a while and know their way around them https://www.facebook.com/eccustoms

Doesn't matter what ecu you have,you always need to change injector data and have the tune checked as there is differences on how injectors perform. A Link g4x plugin with a can lambda sensor is simple plugin setup. Find a reputable/competent tuner to tune it best thing would be to have it towed there.

Base timing offset will need to be checked. Link help file in the pc link software has the procedure in there. I've set my link ecu up for 15 degrees base timing and have an idle ignition map as that could be something that has been setup. If it has just started idling high start looking for leaks after the throttle body. Pm me your tune can see how it's been setup

Been doing a bit of work again on this car to get it ready for some racing next year. Test day has been booked for 17th February at Morgan Park. Finished off seam welding and fixing a few holes and previous damage Started repairs on front end and cutting out the tubs ready for Kelway replacements Full cage and rewire has been put on hold as getting ready to move back down to Ipswich, bought a new house and need to build a new shed to house all the cars, have a good idea on size and layout with a few improvements over current place.

Congratulations, that's a great effort.

Definitely no longer a budget build. Good idea to just go straight to dry sump

more progress than my blue car, hard having a fun reliable driving car that requires minimum maintenance and then working on the other one. @ActionDan your making good progress with yours

This going to be great for those bunnings runs. Progressing pretty well so on track mid 2035????

Wow, that is an epic setup

I use a modified factory manifold (ported and 45mm external gate) and make 300kw at 16psi. Found it spools quicker than same turbo on a high mount manifold

I've used setrab cores and found them good. Directing air over the core will help massively as have found improvements of 5-10 degrees with ducts/shrouds. if still daily/street car grab a sandwichplate/ oil block with a thermostat.

I think @Dose Pipe Sutututu made over 400kw with a modified factory one. No point changing unless going to high mount setup.

a Link plugin or haltech with a patch loom is way to go. Future proof when decide on DBW, staged pumps, control AC, traction control, cruise control.

You need to upgrade the wiring as most pumps draw more current than standard have seen a few engine failures from people just putting in pumps and not doing a relay and wire upgrade.

You wire a few diodes in to "trick" ecu for missing sensors then change a few things in nistune. I got a friends gt+t auto running fine. Will try and find the wiring guide.

I think this applies to all of us here

Do headers, intakes and Uprev. Depending on the engines condition will see a small gain of maybe 15-25kw depending on who tunes it, will be a big improvement in midrange. Cat back exhaust is pointless and just makes horrible noise.

Found the poly stuff would bind up on the lca bushes. Do it once and do it right like you have with the motor. How you go organising the roll cage?

Definitely do the bushes while you are there but go the whiteline rubber bush as I have found them better than poly bushes or just go to rose joint inserts. Hoists just make it so much easier to work on cars, smashed out a full service and tyre rotation in 40mins last week.

Hunt down a cracked s13 dash, sand it, fill the cracks with bog and then a coat of resin with black tint and then use an eBay kit to flock it. No need to keep heater/fan box just run plexi rear quarters with a duct to keep fresh air on you. Don't worry about the steps backwards be worth all the work once it's done

Going to rebuild it with fresh bearings, synchros and 3/4 selector upgrade. Hopefully gears are still good.

After the dyno pulled the plugs and swapped back to usual NGK and no more spark issues car went awesome. Did Targa Great Barrier Reef as navigator again in the commodore and took out Classic GT Class. Car is so much faster now with new engine and gearbox setup. Done a few events in the past few weeks, ended up driving to the sil80 all the way to Brisbane and back all on e85 around 3000km. Did a test day at Lakeside DTC with Skid Control car was solid all day with no issues then did King of QR had a few issues with manifold to turbo nuts coming off & loose and pumping the catch can with oil. Fixed it all and did all but one layout, besides those problems car was super quick and all on the nexen sur4g (200 treadwear) which was pretty good for a budget tyre. Lost the starter motor for the last session and had to be pushed to started to get out on track and back to the brother in laws 😅 VID_20210915_145404.mp4 Got back home and did a lot of maintenance with all fluids and filters changed. When draining the gearbox oil had a lot of material and a synchro clip come out so box will be out soon. Did the local hill climb and smashed my PB with a 59:43 which got me 4th outright and fastest rwd, got beaten by all the EVO's and a WRX. Been daily driving it and still pretty cool to cruise around in and am finding it more comfortable than the 370. Got the last sprint for the year next week, wanting to hopefully better my PB and maybe take the class win for the year.

Here's oem intake vs plazmaman short runner inlet on Rb25 neo and td06 Intake manifold was the only change.......

Call CRD or the like in Australia and get a motor shipped. Known to produce quality cars and could most likely help with tuning it. Getting a better product for your money than a Japanese brands crate engine.

done my engine loom as went wire in and wanted to learn how to make a quality loom. Not cheap especially if you factor your own time as Duncan mention. Done a few body looms for friends and not worth the effort if what you have works keep it just depin what your not using.