robbo_rb180

Wasn't expecting that............. so crd motor and Samsonas too?

Do you have a copy of the afr and power curve be interesting to see what "rich" is for your tuner. Is this on petrol or ethanol?

Welcome, do like a good Rb Swapped s chassis.

Like anything depending on how you drive and maintain it. If your stressing about it lasting and/or breaking gearboxes probably best to not go chasing numbers. Gotta pay if you want to play I'd take a responsive 300-350hp any day over a 500hp+ 30year old import as a daily.

Seen this before with too much timing and lean mixture. The heat wrap doesn't help either. Fix the crack, remove heat wrap and do some logging of afr, exhaust manifold pressure and temperature. Take it as a lesson learned.

stop pussy footing around and go full bogan https://www.aussiespeedshop.com/product/ls-1-gm-6v71-supercharger-kit-cathedral-port/ or maybe get into a job that lets you enjoy the noises. This was fun to rip around in at summernats a few years ago now.

good to know, thank you for that info. @Unzipped Composites is there any where to look online for basic info in regards to aero/airflow stuff for the hobbyist racer? Have you looked at doing an online course/presentation similiar to HPA?

Good progress, How long until first event? Have you thought about making an intake pipe to the turbo from that front air dam pre intercooler, may help with intake temps a little bit I think everyone is recovering from xmas & new years, I've prioritised another project over the race car ATM

With how old parts are now would be easier to rebuild the rack. Any hydraulic hose shop can repair your hoses. What ratio and shaft bolt pattern diff?

Chris has moved back to the USA but still should be able to get parts and info on what needs to be done.

Sam at Whiteys wiring would be the go for electrical stuff https://whiteyswiring.com/ East Coast Customs for boost, they have done a lot of turbo & supercharged VQs https://www.eccustoms.com/

1. Check fuel pressure at the rail is 43-45 psi without vacuum connected on reg(block the hose off so no vac leak) 2. AFM is clean & plugged in and is around the same distance as factory away from turbo.| 3. Coils are getting 12V and grounded correctly. 4. Alternator is generating greater than 12.8V at idle 5. Fuel pump is wired and gets 12v & a good ground Will most likely be one of these but also depends on how the loom has been wired into the bmw

Got a lense kit and cup for the tig makes a difference just need to get more practice and a steadier hand. Got the hoist up now, seriously if you have considered one get it been great so far. Made a start on the exhaust today, started with a basic bracket for the cat, then cut up some bends and got it up nice and high with a magnaflow straight through then into the old twin tip muffler. Will add a vband at the diff, 2 new hangers and then weld it out. Got a busy few weeks so won't be able to get much done but plan to get wheel alignment, tune and then have it fully detailed ready for sale around April.

Same here. Get the supercharger.

Haha.... The fun of modifying cars. Have you run it at the drags yet? Maybe go do 2 test and tunes, see how you go then decide if wanting to chase a time. Don't worry I'm in the same boat at the moment with my 370. I want to do a few small mods but already looking at a turbo setup.....

What changed your decision from turbo/centrifugal setup?

if wanting best budget power adder NO2 is the way I like the harrop stuff as good quality and has a good upgrade path to make big reliable power- smaller pulley, bigger reserviour (ice tank),bigger heat exchanger or interchiller and belt upgrade. Yeah it costs more but you could do a lot yourself the hardest part is having someone read your tune and flash in a map with new injector and map sensor data.

Supercharger would be the go. Have you looked at any of the harrop kits? https://www.harrop.com.au/shop/htv2300-holden-vt-vz-commodore

https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/3/cid/518/id/22878 or the more sensible option https://www.my105.com/ListingDetails/p/7/cid/518/id/22763

Any updates on this rig?

anything over 250kw and driving aggressively will kill a sr20 gearbox. coming from someone who has had a 200000km sr20. 220-230kw is all that is needed for a very competent track car- gtx2867, 1300cc injectors, taarks fuel rail, aeroflow fuel reg, Nistune with r35 MAF or Link plugin ecu, Walbro 460 (with correct wire size & relay). Standard manifolds, 3 inch exhaust and a generic intercooler, quality radiator, NPC RB conversion clutch. Spend the rest on whitelines bushes, mca coilovers, quality brake pads & rotors, decent tyres & enjoy reliable fun track days. This is my latest sr20 setup go towards the bottom for dyno chart on a conservative 16-17psi on old motor

It would have been these 2 things, MCA run a softer rear spring than most and wheels pointing the right way always helps.

I would be keeping your current setup as still need to do all that in another car you bought. Still think a 350/370z would be good for you, cheaper than a clapped out s chassis and already good brakes & gearbox, working AC, cruise control and can fit big wheels easily. Just add a good diff and seat. One of the best bits of work on that 180 If wanting a 180 chassis that is sorted body wise(seam welded,new bushes, gtr diff, brembos, braced cradle & castor boxes) PM me as I am selling one of mine soon so can mod the 370z.

Keep going with what you have at least you know the work done so far is good and eveything is there. S15 subframe is better as gtr still hicas. Get that motor in, 5 stud with 350/370 front brakes ($2000), good mechanical diff(1000-1500 has @Kinkstaahgot one for sale still?) and quality cage (2500-4000) & tyres (1200-2000), spend the rest on event entry. I am sure some 18 year old would pay big bucks for the CA18

I seem to be going back through a lot of the late 90s early 00s stuff lately