robbo_rb180

use a funnel/cut down coke bottle at fill point, car running and also heater on full. will take a while but will bleed up, I have found using one of these the best for actually bleeding cooling systems one other thing could be a blown headgasket.........

normal for gt30 upgrades years ago. should be an ID plate on the cartridge

This is interesting. Keep the oil cool & good catch can setup you will be fine. Spend the time getting the car handling & be reliable, You'll probably find yourself going better than guys with big horsepower. Depending on the rules is there flexabilty for basic aero?

get fixed back & harness' but keep factory seat belt for the street. Unless its for a rally/race car you can get it passed but only for limited use like in other states

hang on........ is the surge tank being fed from the stock tank then an internal pump feeding to that manifold on the 2 external pumps? that inline filter is filtering just the lift pump to surge? There is so much reference material out there these days to setting up very tidy fuel systems in any platform. If a workshop is doing all this I would be pissed.

a wiring specialties is around $1400 setup for a link plugin, std CAS and r35 coils without freight & taxes Go a link plugin $1800-2100 (depending on where its from) add 2x Temp/pressure sensors $130ea (oil & fuel), NZefi trigger $400 (plug & play), link expansion loom $90, Wideband $400-500. is actually a good deal for someone on a budget and could easily do it yourself to save money on labour. I would be going r35 coils while there just to get it done. Wait til you have to do a proper fuel system with 2-3 pumps + hanger/surge + wiring( proper realys, 5mm wire)+ -8 feed line + fuel reg. That ecu wiring setup will seem cheap Have a look at @klutched build will give you a good idea whats needed for 1000hp reliably

I think most of us are use to big power builds looking like this..... i like the use of a connector to a connector at least its a quality connector...... Haltech what...... platinum plug in, elite 2000/2500, e11 v2........ ask them who does it and get a quote from them.

what ecu are you using? are you adding extra sensors? Does the workshop do quality work or looms previously? Its frustrating but if you have gone gone all out on a 1000hp build to me 5K is a drop in the ocean. New loom with extra sensors and new trigger kit for $5k is in my opinion pretty good value. Solves a lot of issues that WILL pop up.

plenty of info here and on their website

Hardrace do a rubber bushed adjustable arm kit. I have ran the rose jointed arms for years and didn't really notice the noise difference until I went in my mates car that has rubber bushes, much smoother and quieter (more enjoyable daily) . If just a street car that goes to the track once a year the rubber bushed would be the go .

New year updates Got the engine back a few days before Xmas and everything was here ready for the build. Did some prep of rebleeding the lifters, cleaning the cam caps and rockers, Clean and primed oil pump, linished the crank and did a board of torque settings & clearances. gave the block a really good clean and blew it out with compressed air ready for final measure and assembly Gapped the rings, assembled piston & rods and got into it. Had the rotating assembly in first then had a bit of spare time left so got the head on too. Before i put the cams in I had to helicoil a cam bolt thread and with that done got the top end assembled. Ended up doing it twice as I thought I had the inlet cam a few teeth off but was fine, nothing wrong with double checking. I put the sump on with all fresh gasket sealant and started threading in the bolts to find the rear 2 were stripped so off with the sump, ran a tap thru and put it on only to find bolts still not grabbing so just ended up chucking new bottom on to seal the engine until I get another helicoil kit. Got a heap of little bits on but still need new fan bolts, paint cam cover & port/tidy exhaust manifold. Bar a few little things its 90% done, been pretty satisfying so far but will see how it all goes when I go to run it Fixed up 2 of the castor box nuts that had broken off the frame and patched part of the chassis which was damaged, welded plates into the castor boxes and fitted new lca with plates & new ball joints. Will get the few keep doing small bits as need to do a big clean up and reorganise the shed to install the hoist

Have used Import Monster & jesse streeter in past

https://www.rimtuck.com/search/thumbnails?make=Nissan&model=R31-R34+Skyline+2dr&yearfrom=95&yearto=98&sort=1

all the japanese stuff generally comes in 15-19 diameter and 5-11 wide plenty of companies Work, Enkei, Volk. Really comes don to budget and style choice. Never had an issue with quality. If thats what r33 wheels are going for I may as wellsell them all & buy more TE37

single layer or MLS?

No, only admins can. It will just fade away and be bumped in 10years when someone needs the same thing

Is that wodonga DECA?

Assetto corsa is good as can mod it, jump on Racedepartment and have a look there. Depends if you want to get serious or just a bit of fun. Wheel depends on budget really. I've had g25/27 then went to a fanatec porsche gt2 wheel and basic pedals to now Fanatec v2.5 base, mclaren wheel, v3 pedals & shifter. I found the porsche wheel good bang for buck but upgraded a few years ago when it was on sale.

just go buy a length of aeroflow 400 or 500 series hose, be cheaper than buying a nissan genuine part https://www.aeroflowperformance.com/ or go to pirtek/industrial hose shop

some footage from QR in 2019 1725030155_QrTimeAttack102019.mp4

use the rb20 speed sensor. From memory I think(going back 10 years or so) you can use the sr20 speed sensor or the gear so speedo should be right.

I have used exedy in past but have moved to npc for the last few clutches as they are a lot nicer for daily driving. Some others I know have tried mantic on a few different platforms with good results with holding big power and still nice for daily driving.

Check the adjustment of the clutch pedal under the dash first to make sure the master cylinder isn't being preloaded. It may have been adjusted in the past for a worn clutch and now readjusted when new one was installed.

going to get a botle of gas tomorrow so will grab a 10 cup. Have looked at a a lens kit but see how I go with the big cup first.

Welcome, the rb swap is a bit more than most think but worth it. If you need any help or answers I've been through this long ago and am about to finish an update on my swapped sil80.