robbo_rb180

Been chipping away at heaps of little things over the past few weeks. Pulled the Coilovers and lca out of the race car, cleaned up the Coilovers, new bush and ball joint for lca and got them in. Needed to make a small bracket to hold the brake lines. Also fitted and wired up a new oil pressure/temp sensor and sorted fuel pressure with the old oil pressure sensor now reading it. Got a cheap Android double din wired up and have the link data showing on real dash app. Cleaned up the te37 wheels and got them fitted with new wheel nuts. Then got it out for some quick pics. Now all that's left is exhaust, new engine oil and filter, wheel alignment, washer reservoir and tune. Waiting on hoist to start exhaust so practicing stainless tig welding which has been harder than I thought it would be but found some good YouTube videos which have sorted out a few of my problems 😅

We'll see going to get into the standard exhaust manifold after I finish this off. Have you picked a hoist yet for the shed? I've just ordered a HAPP70 will make working on cars so much better

Was refering to the underside diffusers, My class only allows a 50mm front splitter from body work to centre line front axle. May have to see if I can fit something into my design.

no fancy ve head just the standard redtop still. Its hard to find info on what works with these heads so just cleaning up little and blending parts. I am aiming to make reliable 250kw (270kw on scramble) as don't want to do gearbox conversion.

That is amazing work, how much of difference does this have compared to running just a flat underside?

Any more pics of the head work? I've started porting mine but won't going as far as yours has been done

use the 25 base map if a plugin as the inputs/outputs will be different but should always confirm all settings before first start. The Link ignition base map is fine for first start.

Track is 40 mins west of Townsville at Calcium. No noise but I have an oil pressure guage and it did show low pressure a few times at idle in the last sprint session. Will be wiring a pressure sensor to ecu and setting up a rpm limiter on the new motor.

Just rebuild what you have and stay away from aftermarket/copy BMC. I too recommend @Dose Pipe Sutututufor brake stuff

if its all a standard loom, engine and turbo setup just use a factory rb25 ecu & injectors for now to get it sorted? If going to upgrade a link plugin would be the way to go if you don't want to make a complete new loom.

@Mick_o

that is cool, is it for time attack or circuit/improved production? like the datsun sticker under the wing end plate

Been slowly collecting parts and the new internals arrived this week so engine was dropped off for machining. Just going to get crank linished, rotating assembly balanced and deck the block. Heads getting hot washed then returned so I can start porting it before being machined. Hit some suspect areas in the engine bay with a wire wheel and found some dodgy repairs Plan is to sand blast the bay and see how bad it is. Also got to see the plans for the new track and stage 1 looks good but is now 12 months away so going to try and get the car all sorted for japnats at QR in April

You mean the body loom that runs under the right guard? Just make sure it ziptied hard against the underside and don't run stupid size/offset wheels and low height.

What is the diff ratio?

I have used East Coast Customs in the past when in Brisbane. They do a wide range of vehicles from imports through to new model american & euro stuff. Had a mate use GT Auto garage with good success

I don't know of any that far north but any brake/parts shop will be able to supply rotors or even one of the resellers on this site. @Dose Pipe Sutututu for brake stuff

I've grabbed a 300zx wheel and clock spring with the factory cruise switches and wiring it to the link ecu for cruise control

. 82 it's responsive, as he wanted mid range power. To save money go the internal gate version and port the factory exhaust manifold. Have a search for @The Mafia old thread on low mount Gt30 made good power.

besides the battery polarity, check that the engine block is grounded to the chassis and all the grounds are clean. As duncan said whip out the multimeter and diagrams.

The ar1 is good for the money if your going out for a bit of fun. They seem to go better at higher pressures(31-36psi hot) depending on cars weight.

Just put one of these on a rb30 powered drift car. Very good result on low boost (16psi) did QR matsuri with no issues so far.

So starting a separate build thread for the race car as its about to go through another small build/update. Original build starts around page 2 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472170-robs-sil80-more-skyline-than-s-chassis/page/2/ The car has been great since originally putting it together but after 18 months of use it is showing a lot of signs of use. So after the last event it was showing signs of heavy blow by and lower compression since last compression test 150ish down to 115. Decided to pull the engine out and do a freshen up with rings, bearings and gaskets but after pulling off the turbo found oil had been leaking into both housings. After a bit of investigation I found the restrictor wasn't a restrictor but just an adapter 😅 Wasn't going to pull the motor down as found where the oil was coming from but I just kept thinking while the engines out......... Spent the afternoon stripping it down and I was surprised with what I found This was the worst of the 2 rod bearings and one of the mains had marks in it along with the exhaust cam. Cylinders 1 & 2 both had marks in the bores so hopefully honing will help. Seeing a machine shop later in the week to see what can be done. Will definitely be doing rods and pistons now. While the engines out I'll be tidying up the engine bay. Fix the hacked up cooler holes, dodgy tower repairs, clean up wiring and a new colour maybe silver or grey to help spot leaks. Specs as of 13 october 2020 Engine- sr20 arp headstuds metal head gasket gtx gen2 2867 1350cc injectors Aeroflow fuel reg walbro 460L Link G4+ ECU fmic 3 inch exhaust turbosmart BOV Driveline s14 5 speed NPC RB Heavy duty conversion clutch 4.3 diff ratio Nismo centre 5 bolt axels Suspension & brakes s15 5 stud urethane bushes MCA X-R coilovers whiteline sway bars kazama rear camber, toe & traction arms gktech castor arms r33 brakes unknown rotors Elig race pads front, street pads rear hel braided lines wheels & tyres TE37 17x9 +22 255 40 17 Advan A050 Inside Cobra suzuka seat 5 point harness AGI Half cage Defi guages- water & oil temp, oil pres & boost works bell quick release keys racing suede wheel battery in rear seat area

Cheaper than r33 xenon lights ? Were around $500 ? Almost looks like it came from factory with all the "standard" Nissan parts.

Welcome, That's a massive effort staying in Iraq for that long (I spent an 8months in Afghanistan years ago ) Looks pretty good at the moment. I don't have any experience with R32 bodywork but new suspension bushes and ball joints does make them a lot nicer to drive.