robbo_rb180

Just put one of these on a rb30 powered drift car. Very good result on low boost (16psi) did QR matsuri with no issues so far.

So starting a separate build thread for the race car as its about to go through another small build/update. Original build starts around page 2 https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/472170-robs-sil80-more-skyline-than-s-chassis/page/2/ The car has been great since originally putting it together but after 18 months of use it is showing a lot of signs of use. So after the last event it was showing signs of heavy blow by and lower compression since last compression test 150ish down to 115. Decided to pull the engine out and do a freshen up with rings, bearings and gaskets but after pulling off the turbo found oil had been leaking into both housings. After a bit of investigation I found the restrictor wasn't a restrictor but just an adapter 😅 Wasn't going to pull the motor down as found where the oil was coming from but I just kept thinking while the engines out......... Spent the afternoon stripping it down and I was surprised with what I found This was the worst of the 2 rod bearings and one of the mains had marks in it along with the exhaust cam. Cylinders 1 & 2 both had marks in the bores so hopefully honing will help. Seeing a machine shop later in the week to see what can be done. Will definitely be doing rods and pistons now. While the engines out I'll be tidying up the engine bay. Fix the hacked up cooler holes, dodgy tower repairs, clean up wiring and a new colour maybe silver or grey to help spot leaks. Specs as of 13 october 2020 Engine- sr20 arp headstuds metal head gasket gtx gen2 2867 1350cc injectors Aeroflow fuel reg walbro 460L Link G4+ ECU fmic 3 inch exhaust turbosmart BOV Driveline s14 5 speed NPC RB Heavy duty conversion clutch 4.3 diff ratio Nismo centre 5 bolt axels Suspension & brakes s15 5 stud urethane bushes MCA X-R coilovers whiteline sway bars kazama rear camber, toe & traction arms gktech castor arms r33 brakes unknown rotors Elig race pads front, street pads rear hel braided lines wheels & tyres TE37 17x9 +22 255 40 17 Advan A050 Inside Cobra suzuka seat 5 point harness AGI Half cage Defi guages- water & oil temp, oil pres & boost works bell quick release keys racing suede wheel battery in rear seat area

Cheaper than r33 xenon lights ? Were around $500 ? Almost looks like it came from factory with all the "standard" Nissan parts.

Welcome, That's a massive effort staying in Iraq for that long (I spent an 8months in Afghanistan years ago ) Looks pretty good at the moment. I don't have any experience with R32 bodywork but new suspension bushes and ball joints does make them a lot nicer to drive.

Just spent a bit of time this morning doing a few small things like fitting indicators, rear speaks, shortening intake pipe and cooling plates. Engine bay all done just need to fit a washer bottle in the corner Thanks to @Ben C34 advice went back and checked the ethrottle setup and set it up properly so idle is smooth at 800rpm and doesn't stall ? Big ticket items left is driver side lca, cat back exhaust and Coilovers.

definitely a market for it. Just finding quality parts to copy will be hard but if you do I'll take one of these

Pm sent

Thanks for the info will have a look at that before I do anything else.

Progress back moving under its own power. Been spending a little bit of time sorting out the power steering setup since I didn't end up going electric. Went with an aeroflow tank as I stuffed up the original one trying to weld on dash fittings. Cut off the old bracket and made a template, copy to aluminium, cut/drilled and folded. Finished making lines and filled with fluid only to find I had hoses the wrong way on the rack. Switched them around, Bled it up and everything thing was all good. Also fixed cooling set up by moving one of the fans, got a new nismo thermostat just incase as the old one was around 11 years old. New coolant with demineralised water and now temps around 80c at idle. Still sorting idle with ethrottle as when I stab the throttle it doesn't return to idle smoothly or stalls so will keep adjusting the proportion and stall gain to make it right. List of things needed to get back on the road is getting smaller.

the ball joint taper is different. There is no need to change the knuckle to run the gtr hubs, I'v run run them on all my s chassis' with no issues. I've got a set here and will get some pictures & measurements to show the difference

I think that's going to change with Americans now getting into the platform.......

Thanks Eric. Maybe worth stepping up to a 3576 or 3584 if wanting the power. Check out @Dose Pipe Sutututu build page 72 has good data and setup if wanting good power with response, no need for nitrous on your current set-up might just need rear housing, setup close loop boost control on the link and more timing with the e85.

That's fair enough, I know how my sil80 went with Aussie 500hp at the wheels and was very linear with a built Rb25, 6boost manifold and gt3076. 82(2008 spec) and e85. If just chasing a power figure adjust baro, temp correction and ramp rate on the Dyno ?

Stepping up to a bigger rear housing will help but depends how far you want to move the power band up the rev range a. 82 is a good point for response and power be interesting to see how a bigger housing would go.

Easiest way would be : Walbro 460/525l Idx1300 injectors Quality fuel reg Continental ethanol (also does temp) Plenty of head room and should idle nicely

Why can't you use the r33? Vct, iacv and injectors are different off the top of my head. If you don't have a loom just use an aftermarket ecu and loom to suit

2x - 10 off the top, 1x - 10off the sump and the factory block fitting should be hopefully help. Never had issues with the s14 but the rocker cover is a better design.

That's nice, how's the quality of the dash facia?

Video from my first run, had gopro issues with the heat so didn't get my second run.

Will be doing whole new catch can/breather setup when I get this motor freshened up. Atp 2l can and all dash 10 lines. Priced up everything for forged bottom end through golebeys so once engine is out and everything measured up will place the order.

warm. Ended up 5th outright with a 1.01:89 at the hill climb but only did 3 runs as blow by got worse. Thats a new pb too so will be alot quicker with a healthy motor It was blowing oil up the boost solenoid ref line and out the port. Tried venting catch can to atmosphere which helped a little bit but still pushing oil to catch can. On the last run turned it up to 22psi but blew off intercooler pipe on gear shift after launch so called it a day. Pulling engine this week as couldn't find another one locally.

I'd go the evo, seen plenty of them and wrx's. Tarmac rally is unforgiving when you have a moment but heaps of fun. Best place to start is have a good read of the sporting and technical regulations, then decide what class (depending on the build plate gtr may sneak into classic but u likely) if not that experienced even tsd or thoroughbred is good experience. One thing to factor in is freighting car to tas and accommodation for you and a crew as it adds up quickly.

Nothing is bolt on, I've used many fuel rail kits and have to shave spacers down on them all. It's easy to do with a file.

No pain no gain

Well spent a bit of time this week going over the 180sx in preparation for hill climb tomorrow. Compression test came back 115-120 across all 4, the blow by had filled half the compressor housing and Intercooler with oil so pulled it apart gave it all a good clean. Dropped the oil and there was no shiney bits so fresh 20-60 oil went in with a new filter. Still blew a little bit of smoke on quick test drive so see how it goes tomorrow and may give it a bit more boost. Hopefully holds together for a few runs.