robbo_rb180

Thats a problem, I think your plans for cooling system will sort it out. I went through similar issues with the sil80 and the ducting is what sorted it out. Try some coreflute(sign board material) to make up temporary ducting to trial it. https://www.bunnings.com.au/tunnelcore-1200-x-900-x-3mm-black-double-wall-pp-flute-board_p0488078

^^^This, you would be amazed how much more load you put on a car when confident and experienced. More 100% throttle in a higher gear and using the car for longer periods. Drifting also is hard on cooling systems as general not getting airflow over the front directly. I drive a mates 350z and I use third gear (less rpm) more and I can do longer sessions where he uses second bangs off limiter and only gets say 30% less seat time before car gets hot.

Also there is this page So much info on nissan diff ratio, stub patterns and teeth. I think this info really needs to be copied and a thread made and sticky in Drivetrain section. https://www.eatsleepboost.lt/tech-info/nissan-tech-info/nissan-r200-diff-ratios/ Can use the part numbers on amayama to for your vehicle https://www.amayama.com/en

This is key to any heat exchanger. Getting fresh air in and across the whole surface. 25 row oil cooler will be enough. With old cooling pro radiator (fully ducted from front bar) and setrab 20 row oil cooler (open air) with thermostat (85C) on the rb25 (half grout filled) in s chassis. 93C Coolant Temp, Oil temp around 96 after 5 laps QR on a 30 degree day

Will need the s14/15 gktech bush kit, 370z axels and gtr/z32tt hub/bearing. The diff will sit lower than current setup and depending how low your car is axel angles will be weird and may damage cv's. I think my old rb25 would sit around 2800-3000rpm doing those speeds with 4.11 gear so nothing wrong there. A s14/15 diff may be a better swap as a 3.69/3.7/3.9 ratio and will bolt in pending whether you have abs/non abs car and 5x1/2x3 axels.

Will take a 2017/2018 Subaru BRZ Ts manual in Blue/grey/white as payment. Pending condition and mods can be cash either way. Need a daily/weekend seat time car.

Damn, that's a lot of brake. How long til back on track again?

The track looks great in both directions and seems to be a few small changes in the old area's. I have never been there but seen old footage and google earth pic's. They shouldn't have to do anything as they would have created longer/deeper run off area's and placed tyre wall to allow for both directions. May have to turn the safety light boards around but you would think they would have bought more to allow it. Having done a few track layouts with some considerable safety concerns and mitigating this would be fine, the small kinks and chicanes as part of the redesign allow for cars to slow down before the bigger corners.

Got a link, I am keen for some morning entertainment

Neat Gearboxes https://www.neatgearboxes.com.au/

Thats so frustrating to hear. A friends been through a heap of issues with his speedtek gearset. The guy is still making rubbish and stuffing people around for over 10+ years now. Why don't/didn't you use a s14/s15 3.69 ratio and just get tailshaft modified if you don't already have an ABS long nose diff?

Nitrous

I would not recommend using any of the aeroflow pumps. Very prone to failure. *I use and recommend a lot of their products. Fuel pumps are still best to stay with the big player's TI, Bosch, Pierburg

I think 86/brz with a LS would be mint. All the handling and plenty of go with no Euro CEL issues.

Yes keep off carsales............ Have you looked at some BMW 335? 4 seats, decent engine, manual/auto models Your going to need a hobby when you do retire soon........... BMW fixer/connoisseur

Damn, that is the worst thing. @admS15 just did a home rebuild on a budget with good success. Have read from here: Pending damage done and budget can get away with second hand pistons and a quick hone. There could be damage to crank and mains too which will need engine out to see and more machining. Budget will determine how you go fixing but removing and refitting the engine yourself can save a few $$$$ but can come with certain disclaimers from engine builder. With the way the market is there has been a few decent second hand engines around SE Qld that could be had for reasonable money but its another gamble. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/206185355874299/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A7074d731-18c6-435a-96d8-a0f886389be1 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/24721780230801011/?ref=search&referral_code=null&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A7074d731-18c6-435a-96d8-a0f886389be1 @No Crust Racing you want to build another motor???

Just because someone works on something and has a workshop does not make them competent........... Things to look at in regards to Idle and A/C -Clean and test IACV _Check that IACV is plumbed correctly -Check that ECU inputs and outputs are setup correctly for idle and idle up Anyone with a laptop calls themselves a tuner these days and there's more to tuning than a fuel/VE and ignition tables. You also haven't stated what original work was required. Big thing going from some basic maintenance to ripping an engine apart.

If removed will keep the diff for the new car.

$26000 without MCA coilovers and Mechanical Diff Get yourself a bargain.

Did you change the E-Throttle table? Is the wastegate setup with correct preload? Ensure its sealing Is the boost solenoid plumbed correctly? Is the turbo a 7064 .92 rear? I have bought something and didn't check and was wrong housing but that early dyno chart shows is what I would think is lazy for this size turbo Can you do some logging in 4th gear under load and also a trigger scope? Do you know anyone you can borrow an aftermarket CAS like a NZefi or similar?

With not opening the TB all the way we found when do some pulls at 50% and 70% it was making more power/torque and only conclusion was the air speed was helping do that as was all same boost. Setup was an old 3076 on modded factory manifold with a 45mm gate and Plazmaman plenum on stock runners.

Depends how low your car is? A mate had issue's with axel to hub angle and broke a few axel's before cutting sub frame and lifting the diff up so all the angles were good

May be part of the problem. I bet someone fat fingered a short cut button. Fill in the spots by copying across. Re calibrate Ap and DBW. Your APS calibration is off as well so see how it goes after all that We did find keeping the DBW throttle body not fully open increased torque in parts of the map on my rb25.

I am realistic what the value is. Small market for old nissan race cars too.