robbo_rb180

Was it a stock pump that was removed? if you have gone to a smaller pump that will cause the lean issue. The walbro also require a wiring & relay upgrade as they draw a lot more current than the standard pump. No need for retune after a pump swap but if its going lean check vac line to fuel reg, pump part numbers and that the filter on the pump isn't blocked.

ok, double check the continuity/resistance of the consult plug wiring and correct connections at ecu and port. Have a re-read of this Nistune Diagnostic/Connection issue guide https://nistune.com/docs/Installation_and_Communication_Diagnostics.pdf consult port wiring guide http://nistune.com/docs/MAF_and_Consult_pinouts.pdf for it to be an issue with the factory ecu in my opinion it is a wiring/pinout issue

@_Wing_ seen this issue?

Does the car start and run? If ecu is not getting power check ECCS relay and associated fuse If just a communication issue test the continuity of the wiring from the consult port to the ecu

Get a set of vernier and a square measure the adaptor bracket and the caliper for thickness evenness and square. Wonder if caliper was from a crashed car and is twisted?

different year of manufacture maybe?? Pin 104 on one my looms was the same as yours. if you can power it and test/probe would be the best way to confirm function

Depending on the condition of the GTR...... If needing alot of maintenance (small rust blemishes, all bushes, brakes, faded/damaged interior pieces) YES. I looked at a r32 GTR before I brought my 370z and for the money the 370z is alot better car and definitely outperforms a r32 so the new 400Z would be the go but probably a series 2 so all the little issues are fixed and plenty of aftermarket support by then BUT if the GTR was in very good condition and only needing paint touch ups and small stuff, keep GTR as a good ecu fixes all the cold start/drivability issues and still a cool "old" car. Also depends what you are using the car for daily driver or weekend fun car. All the modern stuff like cruise control, satnav, info hub, interior quality, ride quality is a big thing for me these days and the new stuff is great in most situations I have put mine in so far and the performance is leaps ahead of 1980s tech.

Pricing you would think be around $68-75k Will probably try to undercut the supra market

You need the big box tailshaft from a r34 gtt as splines are different.

Just something I've done to be safe as never had the time to try things (Dyno hire is expensive up here) and most just want e85 tunes for power figures and generally only use 98 or e85 when flogging their cars. Do the flex thing so car is still able to be driven when no e85 available. Rather be safe than have dead engines.

Best thing these days is flex fuel scalers and offset tables. I don't add any extra timing under 60% ethanol. A decent tuner will set everything up correctly the biggest time factor is actually confirming 98 to e85 tuning having to test add/remove ethanol content to the fuel tank. I know a lot of people who add 33-36% fuel and blanket 5-6 degrees and not scale it correctly for ethanol percentage.

I really liked it. There is a lot of carry over from the 370 interior wise but interior is more on par with other new cars with the digital dash and entertainment system. Going back to a turbo engine is great and will be good for those chasing power. I've enjoyed my 370z being auto for daily duties and the odd fun run but I would definitely get this new Z in manual. Hoping the price will be competitive compared to the supra/z4.

Best to find a local workshop with experience. Google/phone around for quotes. Pricing is going to be different from country to country.

As has been said lots of info out there and being sensible and not just jumping straight in and adding all the timing. When It comes to paying if all the features are being set up correctly and there is no issues with cold starts, rough/surging it is worth it. I had Trent tune a car a long time ago and it was spot on. If you have a go yourself ensure everything is set up correctly with injector info, trigger setup, inputs and outputs as a missed/incorrect setting will stuff up/cause small issues. Have a good look through the link ecu forum. There's plenty of us here that can help you.

Link plugin g4x would be the go. They have plenty of features for future upgrades and the help/user manual is alot better than haltech in my experience. The thing I really like with haltech elite is the wiring assignment and table allocation but the connection time to ecu is horrendous. If you are going to get Trent to tune it have a chat with him first and are you going to do the install & initial setup?

Get that part out sale going and find a 335i coupe.

That sucks, dry sumped billet rb30det with Samsonas time? Hopefully damage isn't to bad and just needs machine work and bearings.

Good to see you got out there. Mechanical sympathy and not shocking the gearbox will definitely help longevity. If torque/ignition curve isn't too aggressive that will help.

@Plattsy has now fitted a G30 to his car and from Dyno and track results its impressive.

As @Dose Pipe Sutututu said R32 ecu with nistune - very capable and cost effective https://www.nistune.com/

Yeah budget a big one. Just priced up a rebuild with standard stuff and a forged one. Not too much difference in the scheme of things but that money could be used to go towards something newer. Definitely won't be getting any phone calls ? The effort vs reward thing is big too but I have a lot of free time to look after a car properly.

Welcome, great collection of cars. How do you go sourcing parts over there?

The current car is very capable but always good for a sanity check and others experience. Smiles are always had when I drive ? Yeah that's one of the things with this platform now that good gearboxes and motors are hard to find for reasonable prices and some classes don't allow gearbox casing upgrades. This car is actually not too expensive to run maintenance wise as it is. So far looked at qld time attack rules and MA regulatory/sprint and qld outlaw racing rules and it's pretty open regards to body, gearbox, suspension, wheel stuff.

Thank you for the advice. Will look at a few categories. Really looking at building a solid base for sprints and circuit/time attack to a club/state level but if going to build a cage want to make sure it's up to national standards. Definitely not going to catch guys who have been driving for years in different categorie but don't want to putt around the back for the hell of it. Have been told to contact norwell for a driver training day too by a local driver who has done a lot of stuff.

If done correctly and supported its fine but will definitely lose momentgram followers. I really should finish my car with DBW so can have a proper go at a few of the features.