robbo_rb180

Maybe a 1000 or so for this event the main sponsor is a multi event thing that will be continual for the rest of the year.

Thanks Dan, definitely have a go yourself when it's time to paint yours. A stop off this morning for one of the sponsors and got in the local paper too. Should put on the SAU stickers.....

Thanks Yeah it's good enough for race car , I'm actually surprised but have learnt alot each time I do it. Those pads are going to cop it 5x 20min sessions with 2 big application a lap. I can't wait to see how much the time difference will be between them and my car. One of the drivers has had hers for 4 years and raced alot.

Apologies for not testing start up time got super busy. BIG UPDATE TIME After a 62hr round trip to Brisbane/Willowbank to grab the car have been busy fixing and tidying up the race. Get it off the ground, wheels off and Gurney everywhere to remove half of QR and barnfind dust. Got stuck in to replacing the busted tie rod end and as a precaution replaced both sides. This is how I managed to get it on the trailer after last archy session in March. Did a bolt check and checked fluids as they had done maybe 20mins of driving and were good. Did replace the brake fluid with some penrite 600f to hopefully keep a good brake pedal feel. Next was fixing up some of the paint and body damage from all the drifting. Ended up repairing the guards and skirts with a few patches but didn't get any pics. I started straightening the drivers door and got a bit carried away This was halfway through the repair. Also sanded the roof and a pillars as was never happy with the finish the first time. A few good layers of undercoat had everything looking heaps better so setup the spray booth and got on with laying colour. So with the car all assembled refitted up the te37s with fresh advan a050 in 255 all round Had a media thing with some local and supercars drivers Today had the sponsor stickers put on and now pretty much ready bar topping up fuel and going to the track. Should be a good weekend and great to finally drive the full Reid Park circuit hopefully get some coverage on fox's port.

Check that alternator is good and grounds are all clean. Sensor calibration is correct, Voltage drop will cause a lot of tuning issues if not stable.

s14/15 ball joints. I've always just used the complete control arm from s14/15 as provides a bit more clearance for wider wheels too.

Lol'd way too musch at this. Definitely put it in, as above with becoming familiar with the software but also niceties such as better fuel economy, cold/warm starts, closed loop boost control even diagnosing issues with igintion and sensors is so much easier as can log everything.

If there is no service history of the belt being done I would do it as seen a lot of subaru. They are easy to do with the right crank tool and 2 small sets of locking pliers. Edit: All you need is long 10mm socket to remove the timing cover bolts to get that one cover off for inspection

I've helped Eric get it alot better and his booked in to get his tune sorted. There is a lot of ecu set up things that weren't/still aren't perfect but can't do much from a different continent

Start up is a lot better with this version, will test it tomorrow and let you know

Can you send me a copy of your tune and I'll make the changes and do a step by step guide with screen shots to set it up properly. Happy to help and pass on some knowledge. It should be 15 degrees where 10 is.

You need to go into the link software Pclink and change the trigger offset to set base timing and not move the CAS. I set the CAS to middle position on the bolt holes, have pclink running with timing light setup and change the offset value to get base timing to 15 degrees. The help file is very good to help with the trigger offset, if this is not done correctly on initial setup it causes issues at every step of tuning same with fuel and ignition setup as I have found a few tuners that don't understand how all the maps integrate/reference with each other.

yes, can be used on CAN, OBD2, Consult too. Can add a gps unit for extra. Running a Link G4+ plugin at the moment.

Honestly can't remember what way as I don't have one. No it shouldn't. That solenoid should be screwed in

Adjust this screw, the iacv is under the plenum will need a short screwdriver

Spent the afternoon painting the bonnet, got the under coat sanded nicely and gave it a few coats of colour in case I need to give it a buff. Box of goodies arrived from gktech to fix the front end, the dash came back from PowerTune digital with an upgrade to the latest board and software need to fab a new bracket too and also have picked up a sponsor for the supertaxi event and the whole sides of the car will be getting wrapped/stickered up so will be a proper race car ? I'm off to Brisbane Tuesday and hopefully back home very late Thursday night (3200km round trip ?) so can get it all sorted end of next weekend.

That's a Nice clean example. Replace clutch fluid and adjust it under the dash should help with the clutch feeling. How do you go over there with police and the recent flood of 90s Jap imports?

Ffp = forward facing plenum. Have you adjusted the screw on the idle air control valve under the plenum or is the link controlling idle by ignition timing? If low idle and no leaks, its not getting enough air. Also plug in the inlet air temp sensor as it may have an idle control table that may use it.

Yes want a bit more of a factory look once its all finished. Yeah I removed the condensor back in 2008 when I had heating dramas when I first moved to Townsville but I am determined to have AC in this car as I really want to be able to drive it anywhere all year round. I use to run a 14 inch push & offset 12 inch pull and never went over 90C on track so hoping using something good quality (spal, motordyne) and the ducting/shroud will move enough air to keep it. Have priced up a custom radiator thats a bit thinner, cross flow & will allow a 14 & 12 inch pull setup but trying to avoid that ATM Thanks mate, Hows your new engine coming along?

No need for an aftermarket ecu with basic things like that. One of the nicest r33 gtrs I've driven had dump pipes, exhaust, hard pipe kit & removed restrictor. Was fine until the owner added a boost tee and turbos exploded. If you do want some extra features like flex fuel, closed loop boost control & better fuel economy look at a Link ecu plugin, goes in factory case so nice & discreet when you go home. I have found them very easy to use over the last 10 years, wire in a wideband , do some logging and have a go tuning yourself and hire a dyno when you want to do WOT tuning.

So not much more big progress on the sil80. Removed the radiator and got it chemically cleaned as I had left water only in the system for over a year, cleaned up the thermostat housing and inspected the thermostat which I'll replace as a precaution. Got some stainless steel bolts and washers to mount the new heatshield I made. Struggling to find a quality 14inch thermofan that will fit as I don't think a 12inch will be upto it(I have a 14 inch pusher on the condenser). Got the lines and new reservoir to finish the power steering off. That's about where I got to before I found out the car club I am part of looks like to be running a super sprint for the supertaxi event here so have directed attention to getting the race car ready for it. It's still in Brisbane but have organised new front lca with ball joints and a replacement tierod end for the broken one. Going to remove the vented bonnet and go back to factory steel as it is a lot better condition and looks neater so have prepared it for paint over the weekend. And to top it off I've been asked to navigate for Targa great barrier reef again this time in a pretty tough VH SS as covid border closure won't allow the regular navigator into Qld. Give the cars page a like on facenovel https://m.facebook.com/car689/ Pretty busy few weeks ahead and still got to retrieve the race car from Brisbane too ?

Looks like I'm driving in supports for supertaxi in Townsville so will be able to give a good review of the Elig pads. Trying to get a few people onto them up here.

A relay

Are you running a whole new loom or using the factory Nissan loom? Use the link ecu help file for factory ecu pin out at factory ecu side but easy enough to find with multimeter from cas to ecu

The trigger wires you need the 12v, gnd and the trigger + of each to the trigger 1&2. It may seem confusing as there is separate wire for cam and crank with all the wires as most people go to a full trigger kit but if you look at the diagram power and ground are the same pins at the ecu