robbo_rb180

Yep, have a look at the interior differences. When you spend 90% of the time driving a car the interior has to nice especially when spending over 100k

If it wasn't for the bland/old looking center console I would have a 2011-2014 one. The facelift 2017+ interior is so much better

the whole kit is so much better than standard, it has confused a few people thinking its a gtr ?

Would definitely run nicer without the extra air being sucked in. isn't that the industry standard for evacuating an A/C system??

I bought the wheels new when Import Monster got the last run of them. They can source stickers & centre caps

Car moved under its power back to the big shed. Very happy with the wheels on it finally but will need to get 235/245 for the fronts. With the sil80 now moved its allowed the 370 to be parked in the garage. Freshly ceramic coated and tint, still no plans to mod it

or make up a kit using something else from brembo 17z/18z http://rotorlab.com/brembo-17z

Awesome work. Mounting the power steering pump with short lines is a lot better as there can be "lag" due to pressure drop. A few guys I know run them in the boot with varying opinions on Feeling/response.

Nissan 30620-12U23 http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/clutch-slave-cylinder-suit-nissan-skyline-021993-25gt-p-19.html

If you are not planning to go for more power there is no point in head mods. R33 rb25 cams will not work in neo head (hydraulic vs solid lifter) ARP studs can be retorqued upto 3 times If you do decide on cam, spring, retainer upgrade something from Kelford with their recommended spring combo If you ever go for more power go to a Neo DET head, clean the ports up and thats it. Going to bigger cams will only shift the power band up higher.

I have 324mm rotor with gtr brembo calipers.

yeah epoxy, like anything its all in the prep. Biggest issue I had was the humidty that day stupid high and it dried quicker than I expected. Prep was remove paint & grease, Citris scrub, water wash, etch, dry over night then coat. I haven't driven on it as other friends have had issues with it peeling parking car son it.

How are you going to get the efames? I've used the rustoleum coating in parts of the shed, seems to be holding up alright.

Will this do for now? Crisp SR.mp4

Have a look at r34 gtt fronts as rotor is 310mm or find a friend who is happy to let you borrow gtr/brembo calipers and rotors to test fit. The evo setup requires minimum of 18inch wheels generally.

Looks like you will struggle to fit anything bigger, depending on the track and speeds a good set of pads, lines and fluid will be enough. If you decide to go bigger look at 350z brembo fronts as they will fit under most 17s (te37, rpf1, r33 gtr) I've been using project mu pads and 4000 series rotors with good consistent feel for 6+ years and am trialling a set of Elig pads at the moment but haven't had to do as heavy braking but seem alright for a budget brake pad.

Good work, always good to have a system. Have you looked at torque or realdash for ecu info to be displayed on the head unit?

Now uploads are working again here's a few quick pics.

Rear end is in, all new bushes and gktech arms also cleaned up a spare diff cover and fitted it up. Had one f**k up installing front lca bush and bent the lca, lucky I have a spare but it's on the race car in Brisbane ? Just need to clean up the threads for the rear sway bar mounts and that will be rear all done. Brake lines get measured first thing Monday so will be rolling Tuesday night. Actually getting keen to drive it. Excuse shitty pics but cbf after working on it all day. **won't let me upload pics @PranK

Also clean the negative/grounding points on the battery, chassis and engine. Get hold of an after market guage and double check for sanity.

Check the starter relay. The eccs/ecu relay sounds to be right as the buzzing will be the fuel pump that the ecu switches. If the relay is good, get under the car and give the starter a tap with a hammer as it may jammed. Following that get a multimeter and see if there is voltage to the start solenoid.

If you have the time and patience do a heap of smoothing to the casting and a base coat to get rid of all the imperfections. I sandblasted these did a base coat sanded with 400 then 800 and did final colour coat, apply stickers then cleared. I also wax & grease remover between each dry coat. All I used was vht brake paint from a can but if was to do it again would probably 2pac them. Good luck with it, I'll try and post a link where I got my stickers.

If you decide to go a new turbo see Shane at Subaru Doctor/Shane Fraser Motorsport does good pricing and work.

That's it, no one is really going to see underneath the car. Calipers all finished off with fresh stickers and clear coat. Came up pretty good, not going to be a show car any way. Finished welding the plates in and prepared the rest of the suspension for a coat of black. Will let it cure for a day or two then start putting in the bushes and ball joints. Also had the HQ tuned back in May. Made a massive 176hp ? drives pretty good for what it is, definitely needs the nitrous kit finished off. I had the timing and secondary set up right but needed a different power valve & mod to the squirters.

Use r32/33 engine cross member and mounts for that frame. Rb25 gearbox cross member requires the mounting to be moved forward (I welded 2 extensions on) Need custom tailahaft unless using Rb20 box Radiator can use one for CA18 for correct outlet positions. Either make your own sway bar spacer or get a whiteline one Google 'poor man's Rb conversion nissansilvia.com' a lot of good info All standard s chassis is retained but can use s14/15 flca and knuckles or buy a conversion kit requiring new bearings There is almost 20 years worth of info out there that a Google search will give all info My cars been Rb since 2003 and done both Rb20 to 25 box biggest problem is keeping it cool so use quality radiator and fans with ducting