robbo_rb180

Benefit of a quality ebc or ecu boost control is preventing wastegate creep as most wastegates will start opening before target is reached. There can be a noticable difference as wastegate will not open before that target is reached especially on external gates with adding pressure to the top port.

From a forum member

with dry ice i find around 20-30kg is right, weather dependent but put it in shopping bags so is easy to move around and shape to the tunnel/hard to get areas.

Thats a nice upgrade. Just went back and read the whole thread, good effort on the liitle things like the sound mate on the speaker mounts. Will be a nice daily/fun weekender once its all together. Have looked at stageas for a daily but didn't need another "project" car. One thing I've found with those china manifolds was to cut the t3 flange off, remove some of the collector and lay the flange over a bit to help with strut tower clearance. If you want it to drive a bit nicer down low try and find a factory intake and fit a plazmaman style plenum helps a lot with low down torque.

If I was only aiming for 400kw the following is what I would be doing for now.... Kebabtech2500/Link G4X plug in Wideband and ethanol sensors 4 inch exhaust ID 1300 injectors (Leaves plenty of head room for the future) Walbro 525 fuel pump (upgrade the wiring, relay and bulkhead connectors too) -8 teflon braid fuel line Turbosmart Fuel Reg and see how that goes as a good base to build from. If doesn't perform how you want can throw on a g35, manifold, 50mm gate, upgrade the intercooler to a plazmaman 100mm and enjoy a 450 to 500kw responsive street car.

I have never installed one from that supplier. Try a cooldrive or JAS for a local supplier. System needs to be evacuated(gas recovered by a licenced person, most auto elecs can do it), Remove old compressor and fit new one, Install new o rings (I would replace the drier while there too), top up oil, pressure test with nitrogen and then regas with r134a ( again only available from a licenced person. Reccommend finding a mate who is a fridge mechanic).

Never had any major issues as only been pulled up at rbt's and car has always been fine but I haven't really driven my more modified cars around for a few years now. But everything that can be mod plated is done and not too low or loud. Yeah seems to be mid 00s falcadores with cut springs and steelies. Ac is a must up here for summer. My new car flys under the radar as it's more of an old man's car.

dead pump by that diagnosis. Drop in a replacement and should be alright if doing an upgrade to a bigger pump ensure you do a wiring & relay upgrade .

That is in better condition than 90% of modified cars in Townsville ? Plumb screamer, quietish exhaust, working hand brake, sensible ride height and normal working roady stuff and would be fine. Staying away from bunnings car park meets, Mt Stuart and industrial estates helps too.

Yep, have a look at the interior differences. When you spend 90% of the time driving a car the interior has to nice especially when spending over 100k

If it wasn't for the bland/old looking center console I would have a 2011-2014 one. The facelift 2017+ interior is so much better

the whole kit is so much better than standard, it has confused a few people thinking its a gtr ?

Would definitely run nicer without the extra air being sucked in. isn't that the industry standard for evacuating an A/C system??

I bought the wheels new when Import Monster got the last run of them. They can source stickers & centre caps

Car moved under its power back to the big shed. Very happy with the wheels on it finally but will need to get 235/245 for the fronts. With the sil80 now moved its allowed the 370 to be parked in the garage. Freshly ceramic coated and tint, still no plans to mod it

or make up a kit using something else from brembo 17z/18z http://rotorlab.com/brembo-17z

Awesome work. Mounting the power steering pump with short lines is a lot better as there can be "lag" due to pressure drop. A few guys I know run them in the boot with varying opinions on Feeling/response.

Nissan 30620-12U23 http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/clutch-slave-cylinder-suit-nissan-skyline-021993-25gt-p-19.html

If you are not planning to go for more power there is no point in head mods. R33 rb25 cams will not work in neo head (hydraulic vs solid lifter) ARP studs can be retorqued upto 3 times If you do decide on cam, spring, retainer upgrade something from Kelford with their recommended spring combo If you ever go for more power go to a Neo DET head, clean the ports up and thats it. Going to bigger cams will only shift the power band up higher.

I have 324mm rotor with gtr brembo calipers.

yeah epoxy, like anything its all in the prep. Biggest issue I had was the humidty that day stupid high and it dried quicker than I expected. Prep was remove paint & grease, Citris scrub, water wash, etch, dry over night then coat. I haven't driven on it as other friends have had issues with it peeling parking car son it.

How are you going to get the efames? I've used the rustoleum coating in parts of the shed, seems to be holding up alright.

Will this do for now? Crisp SR.mp4

Have a look at r34 gtt fronts as rotor is 310mm or find a friend who is happy to let you borrow gtr/brembo calipers and rotors to test fit. The evo setup requires minimum of 18inch wheels generally.

Looks like you will struggle to fit anything bigger, depending on the track and speeds a good set of pads, lines and fluid will be enough. If you decide to go bigger look at 350z brembo fronts as they will fit under most 17s (te37, rpf1, r33 gtr) I've been using project mu pads and 4000 series rotors with good consistent feel for 6+ years and am trialling a set of Elig pads at the moment but haven't had to do as heavy braking but seem alright for a budget brake pad.