robbo_rb180

remove bearings, measure them and go to cbc or some other bearing retailer. Probably better of taking it to a gearbox/diff shop as will need to reset the backlash and will then have warranty.

Perfect example of using a short runner manifold vs standard. The only thing I would use is the plazmaman plenum which bolts to factory runners.

Bracket https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/rb-r35-vr38-coil-bracket-kit-rb20-rb25-rb26 Coils https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/collections/rb-coil-bracket-kits/products/oem-nissan-coils-for-rb-coil-bracket-oemcoils Instructions https://platinumracingproductsusa.com/pages/platinum-racing-nissan-rb-r35-vr38-coil-kit-excludes-neo The Platinum Racing kit is pretty good, done a r34 & 2jz setups. Comes with everything & has online instructions. Start first go and no problems since. Only use genuine as have seen some issues with others. The Link is able to to 3D dwell time adjustment, I can provide a map if required.

Once this virus stuff calms down a track day with get you motivated

it totally changes how they drive, never know it may make your barge almost handle like a BMW Last time I did it with an energy suspension urethane kit(still going good in the race car), will get the whiteline rubber stuff this time for street car comfort.

https://mcasuspension.com/products On a budget I would go the Voston range MCA design(the original Blue series) over anything else. The valving in most coilovers is not designed for Australian roads. Been in a lot of cars with MCA stuff & personally have been using a set for over 5 years.

This has been keeping me sane with the tracks closed ATM. Plenty of different games with mods out there for hills driving. 100% worth the cost and less likely to be pulled over

Great work so far. Like the diy fibreglass stuff. what sort of circuit stuff do you do? Time attack, sports sedan?

Is there a way to have a standard layout/thread for assisting members with issues/problems with their cars Thought maybe a standardised layout may help most and not frustrate others as we are getting more of the same problems repeating. I've provided 2 examples if anyone wants to add to or fix them Location: Model: Year: Engine: Gearbox/trans: ECU: Intake Mods: Hotside Mods: Fuel System: Issue/Problem: What have you tried: Example 1 Location: Townsville Australia (Country is a big one) Model: Nissan Sil80 Year: 1993 Engine: RB25det Gearbox/trans: 5 Speed ECU: Link G4+ Xtreme Intake Mods: FMIC, plazmaman intake, 74mm DBW Hotside Mods: standard manifold, gt3076r, 45mm external gate Fuel System: Walbro 460, nismo reg, 40 amp relay hard wired Issue/Problem: Car doesn't start or idle clean What have you tried: checked fuel pressure- 300kpa checked base timing & ecu offset- 15 degree base, 91 offset New fuel filter New spark plugs Pressure test intercooler pipes- held 600kpa Example 2- Location: Melbourne, Australia Model: R33 gtst s1 Year: 1995 Engine: rb25 det Gearbox/trans: Auto ECU: standard Intake Mods: pod filter, fmic Hotside Mods: 3 inch turbo back Fuel System: walbro 255 Issue/Problem: Car misfires when coming onto boost What have you tried: Inspected spark plugs- Black and fuely Checked intercooler pipes- no leaks all clamps tight Checked all Vacuum hose- no leaks or cracks Cleaned MAF

With all this lock down stuff I have gotten into the sil80 and gone through parts to sell. Fixed the leaking fuel lines at the fuel tank & drained the stale fuel. Updated firmware on ecu as it was late 2018 firmware. Removed front & rear lca and knuckles from the car. Pulled out spare frame and degreased & pressure washed away all the muck. I went and bought a small press and removed all the ball joints and the bushes I could Also started sand blasting the Brembo calipers ready for powdercoating & rebuild Got the gktech weld in plates for castor brackets & rear subrame to be done before being powder coated. Debating wether to buy new MCA coilovers for this or put the old ones back in and buy new ones for the race car.

Calm ya tits mate..... Now everyone has given good advice on how to diagnose this issue. Take a look at who is giving advice by actually looking at their profiles & posts. Most of the people trying to help have been around for a long time. I'm guessing you are in the US so not many people have experience with these cars. Check fuel pressure after the filter- will be blocked filter or dead fuel pump(I have seen a lot of walbro failures even with newish pumps). I have had a factory fuel reg fail only found it as had a guage & the tuner had swapped pumps. you have the tools there- guages & wideband may as well spend the time to check it properly. If issue is still there after this would just wait until you can book in to see a mechanic who has experience with skylines/rb cars.

Go the link. Easy to use and setup, help file is a lot better than haltech, use any sensor with its own calibration, closed loop boost and Wideband, upto 5d mapping, ethrottle if you want to enable other features like traction & cruise control and don't have to eat kebabs every time you drive the car.

They respond pretty good to some positive manifold pressure.

will need something like this kit http://alphaomegaracing.com/p/119/c/73/Z33/ALPHA-OMEGA/Evo-350mm-Brembo-Front-Brake-Adapter-Kit-Version-3.html

He is in Townsville. Can 100% say that is a known happy Dyno. Probably not the best place for a tune in Townsville. Ask me how I know.... I can recommend a much better tuner locally. The boost tee is designed to bleed air away from the wastegate to increase boost pressure.

Do it, add a stillen based blower kit and scare the v8 bogans

Video added. GOPR0204_1584526511125_high.MP4 Need to find something simple to get out there and have fun in- 350z/v35 would be my pick atm How big the new shed?

They go pretty good but bloody noisy. Haven't done any really big stops(over 160kph) yet. Will go the performance street ones next.

Drove QR Autumn Matsuri last weekend. Heaps of fun and driving with mates that made the trip from Townsville. Blew a welsh plug out of the block Saturday night Got a new one and got it in and drove until the last 1.5hrs when 3rd gear decided to finally explode. Got a video from in car that I need to edit. Did post event comp test and tested 150-155psi, tested cooling system too and all good. New s14 gearbox was sourced and inspected before install, all new filters and fluids all ready for Thursday night at Archerfield drift. Definitely need to go e85 as extra 20kw would help on the big tracks. Once I get home hopefully do a few more steering mods and fix a few chassis problems.

BOC don't do nos system, just the industrial stuff and the one that does only does it a week before a big drag meet in Cairns or Mackay, should have just LS it. Got some in car stuff, will go through it when I get home as still in Brisbane for work.

A late night update HQ got 4 into 1 extractors and twin 2.5 inch exhaust, finding someone to fill nitrous bottle is turning out to be difficult. Went to Airlie Beach, rented airbnb Finally changed oil on drift car. Went to archerfield and had a great time, cars a little worse off but driving has improved Actually made small progress on the sil80 and started stripping brake calipers for powder coating and new seals

As has been said the Link help file has all information needed to get it running. Need to set trigger widest slot and trigger offset values. Depending on what fuel mode you use will depend on how you tune it. Next is injector data THIS IS IMPORTANT especially with modelled fuel. The base file is helpful but generally doesn't get it running if you have never used one or have a good understanding of how the ecu works. You need a Wideband sensor and controller to tune, wire to a AN input or to CAN. Factory narrow band is useless. IAT is only used for corrections but is definitely a must. May pay to get a workshop or someone who knows what they are doing to get it sorted. Or if you need more info PM me.

Have used NPC clutches for a while now for street and track cars with around the same power. Good pedal feel and haven't had any problems. A few friends are using mantics from heavy duty up to twin plates in commodores, skylines and wrx's with all saying good things.

New suspension bushes, MCA street performance/ultimates and decent tyres would be all that is needed suspension wise. R34 gtt brakes with HEL braided lines, good fluid and new pads(Elig, Intama are affordable good options). No need for fancy rotors. No point doing a shift kit. New trans filter and fluid will be noticeable and keep it going. As has been said recently learn from others that have spent the time and money doing it.

No point doing an exhaust or pod filter on non turbo motors. Nothing to be gained except noise and a lighter wallet. A bit of advice, google search all your questions and once you have exhausted that option then post in here.