robbo_rb180

Thanks mate. Fitted up the dash, pissed off the horrid white interior pieces, painted the gauge panel, fitted white LEDs and cleaned inside for the first time. Replaced one of the headlight motors so got lights to do night sprints ?

Thanks for sharing. I would be finding a new tuner if that's his attitude as most guys I know enjoy the challenge of having a go at different combinations. As has been mentioned modding the standard one is the go. I ditched my 6boost and went back to a standard set up.

Hello SAU, after a bit of a hiatus I am back. Lots has been happening in the few months. I took the 180sx down to Brisbane early August and did a 3 day tuning course which was information overload but learnt heaps. Retuned the 180sx and made 220kw @16psi and was so much nicer to drive. Went to QLD Time Attack Round 4 and had some fun at QR. Car went well except for losing the dump pipe bolts at one point 3 new bolts and went back out. 59.19 was quickest lap on clubman layout. Also went out to a practice morning at Moragn Park, that track is so good to drive. Only issue from both days was the diff breather having oil spit out. easy fix was a piece of put on tucked up high. Came back to Townsville and hired a dyno to turn the boost up. First run was 188kw as base run and ended up with 230kw (I don't car about the actual figures just that theres an increase). Entered the local sprint day at Reid Park and its heaps quicker. The wife & I both drove and i ended up 2nd in class and 4th outright with a 55.13. Have done new knuckles & front wheel bearings as I going to have a go at some drifting next Brisbane trip. Going to try a 4.3 ratio diff and see if there is any difference, will take the 4.11 just in case I feel the need to swap back. Adding a digital dash to as well from Powertune Digital Started tuning a few cars too. The most interesting was the swift from Targa. Now supercharged & on E85. Off to Brisbane for last round of time attack series in a few weeks. Hopefully can improve times and maybe get a track day at Lakeside.

Johnny how have you found having the pumps PWM controlled? lower/consisstant fuel temps? Keen for bathroom updates.

Get the project car finished/buy new car sale Will keep updating as I dig stuff out All located in Townsville 4817 Can post items at buyers expense RB25 HKS Cast low mount manifold & wastegate -usual crack in divider $1000 FIRM RB26 Fuel rail & adaptors, Ceramic coated $120 works with rb25 greddy plenum SR20 Freddy intake with greddy fuel rail & injectors $600 Apexi intake & filter $80 Gt2876r with manifold, dump & down pipe $1200 FIRM Microtech LT10s & loom $300 s13 sr20 loom with ignitor $250 Exedy twin plate clutch & flywheel $900 Single plate clutch $200 standard fuel rail & injectors $100 standard coil packs & loom $100 Rocker arm stoppers $40 S13 Kazama castor arms $150 Mudflaps $150 set Apexi strut brace $50 are rear Sub frame $100 Jet speed fibreglass grill S14 Standard strut tops Standard fog lights & switch $250 Engine cross member $100 Misc Aeroflow fuel pump $50 Fuel reg $50 Gauges boost, volts, oil pres, Narrow band NO Sensors $150 Recaro seat on rail suit s13 $600 Stainless pipes & silicon joiners THE Lot $100 Greddy Profec B II boost controller no solenoid $100 Catch can $20 Less

Link g4+ plugins. Lots of features and ability to do lots of different things from flex fuel, launch & traction control, DBW and cruise control. https://www.linkecu.com/ If your spending USD$800+ on a PFC then a Link is better value. A r32 GTR with steel turbos or single gt35 based turbo, exhaust, good injectors(ID1000/1050), Ethanol sensor, Walbro460 or DW equivalant and Current generation ecu will make a great street car with lots of potential for future upgrades.

All the dryer does is filter the refrigerant of contaminants/moisture within the system. If its only blowing warm/hot air sitting there with no air flow over the condenser it will be an electrical/fan problem or TX valve that is not metering refrigerant properly. The condenser requires airflow to help with the heat transfer as the gas changes states and the TX meters that refrigerant depending on evaporator temps. As been suggested any auto elec/ac trade should be able to diagnose the issue and resolve it. If you know a fridge mechanic they should be able to help you.

Being an import it should have been converted to r134a at compliance. As suggested check all fuses and relays. Is the condensor fan working? does it stay cool as you drive? if it does that suggests a faulty fan Best thing is to take it to a competent auto elec/Ac guy. Get a set of gauges on it and check pressures over its operating temps/fan speeds. Diagnosing AC by forums can't be done properly. If i was to do it I would check all electrical components and if that does not highlight the issue, replace all the o rings, valves, oil & dryer. Pressure test and vac it down to ensure no leaks or contaminants in the system and regas with around 500gm and monitor pressure and charge from to what that system needs to have around 4 degrees in the vent.

Hptuners can also be used. Did you get a good midrange gain?

You require a speed signal converter as the signals are different. Dakota digital do a converter or if you are keen to be covered in gearbox oil, swap in the original sender unit cog/drive onto the Rb25 sender as has been known to work on other Nissan gearboxes. http://www.nissansilvia.com/forums/topic/381889-rb-box-in-s13-how-to-get-speedo-to-work/ https://sxoc.com/vbb/archive/index.php/t-460010.html

Nice all rounder. As been said mca don't recommend roll bars. When you order them did you tell them what you were doing with the car? as a few people I know got blues but should have gotten the Purlpe/XR range as they are valved more for track stuff and are still comfortable on the street. Do you do any CAMS events? As the cusco does not meet the standards for any passenger activities and will need a proper harness bar. Good solid base for a weekender/track car. AC is great to have for those hot days.

They said no at the moment. Maybe in the future. Would have liked to try one in t3. 92 on a Rb25

G30 660 and 770 at jamboree last weekend. Asked about t3 or t4 housings possibly in the future but only doing vband housings for now. They are a direct bolt on replacement for g25 series too.

new cars are so much better but not as fun. Get back to the track and enjoy the work you have put in. I spent 2 days at QR & Morgan Park recently and so glad I didn't sell the 180sx.

I have used rs3 and ar1 in 255/40 /17 Rs3 was good all round for street and club level motorsport stuff. Do not recommend them in the wet. The ar1 is definitely a track tyre very consistent when up to temperature. I run them around 28-29psi hot. Also used them in targa barrier reef and they where great on the road when warm but had a few moments when cold.

Yes, there has been a few revisions and they are now testing a bracket for it. If you can, definitely go the aim dash it looks like a great bit of kit. The racepak is now looks very dated.

Here is a cheap alternative. Is plug and play for haltech and multiple custom screens and is touchscreen. https://www.powertunedigital.com/

Just standard Sr won't be proper flat shift but will set up ecu to cut ignition when clutch is engaged. More setting up for launch control as majority of racing I do is standing start. Would love a sequential box, maybe one day if I ever built a proper race car and had a race track and workshop support locally.

When you do go silly and break a gearbox, coyote tuning were/are as far as I know using a t56 box in their test car. Besides the rods is there any other issues these have once boosted?

Yeah and launch control. Want to start using more of the ecu features.

That looks good, very factory looking. Post Hill climb update: Car went well and I ended up 3rd in class and I think 7 or 8th outright in a field of 30. Tyres took a few runs to scrub in and to get the pressures right as its a standing start and no warm up. Fastest on the day was a R32 GTR with 500kw doing a 55 seconds. Finished up with a 1:06:86 which is around 2-3 secs off the Sil80. Cars steering feels light and took a while to get use to until I had some heat in the tyres. Tune needs a look at as had a few problems going back to 100% after a gear change. No leaks or damage so stoked about that. Going to add IAT sensor, move boost & afr gauges, wire a clutch switch and 2 other switches for a few things over the weekend. Then off to Brisbane for a dyno tuning course and round 4 of Qld time attack at QR the end of next week.

This is good to hear. Be interesting to hear what you think of the once it has some more go. Will you be using most of your current exhaust setup?

Have used rubber, superpro and now moved to aluminium. The superpro were fine for the street and had no issues. Aluminium were used to move rack forward but I noticed no difference with feel and noise.

I'll be grabbing the G30-660 as long as t3 inlet so I can keep current manifold. Will be going on a built rb25 will be a massive upgrade over the old gt3076r.

go something bright and wild to stand out far too many white or black "race cars"