robbo_rb180

Rears will work depending on what handbrake backing plate you use. Some bearings have an a stand off on top and some are plain so require right one.

Remove old coating, wire wheel affected areas and treat with product, prep and reseal with your choice of product. Depends how deep the rust goes may need to do some patch panels. Had similar on one of my cars and did the above, used a underbody coating after treating and repairing sections.

https://mcasuspension.com/ https://www.shockworks.com.au/ Contact one of these companies, listen to what they say and buy the recommended product. Nothing is cheap when it comes to good suspension

In Qld if you sell more than 6 cars a year generally you will require a dealers licence. I bet its one of the kids that has access to large sums of dollars from "undisclosed parties" that buys cars and flips them from industrial sheds. Buyer beware as some of those types of cars go missing after being sold...........

The time and skill it takes to reverse engineer is hard for 98% of people that just want to plugin and go. Especially when it comes to displays and modules. We have a guy in Australia that has finally put out a how to for unlocking the link ecu password protection. For the OP who ever is tuning the car will recommend an ECU that they may be more comfortable/familiar with too so have a chat with them on what they use normally. With the turbos if not aiming for big power and want the stock look have a look at high flowing current turbo's, @hyper-gear have a great reputation over here.

That model is so old. An elite series with knock control would be the go but need the silly patch harness. Link ecu do a g4x plugin with more functionality for a better price and not locked to one environment of product.

use what ever centre you want and get Brock at Leeson Engineering to weld the 6 bolt/gtr/Z flange on them. Also 300zx TT shafts same as Gtr/Z and r230 is 31 spline so same as some 33 gtr with r200. Also Neat Gearbox do new harder gears, yes they are expensive but better than going through a heap of used 30 year gears. What IPRA car has the Z diff upgrade? did they use the gktech bushes or mod the sub frame?

https://www.eatsleepboost.lt/tech-info/nissan-tech-info/nissan-r200-diff-ratios/ All nissan r200 diff info EDIT: We should copy & paste all the info and make a sticky @PranK

Can definitely recommend the MCA coilovers. Have a chat with them about what you do with the car and they will recommend the right ones.

The 150A breaker is it a quality item? Thats a big current trip Does the afr change and go lean? sounds like a possible lean issue with popping or if rich check coil voltage. Check IACV resistance when cold and warm. Also disconnect and see if same issue occurs. Did you upgrade the alternator wiring when you did the upgrade? Check wiring at alternator as could have a steel/braided line running over the B+ terminal

Check 5th post.........................

Get a multimeter and start tracing wires. Take all the guess work out of it

Welcome, a few around with Barra's and I know of a very tidy one that runs 9's in full street trim and some drift ones. Whats the plans with it? stock setup or something a bit wilder.

Yeah mate same, it's a cool car and how long you've had it.

As has been said its mainly bleeding correctly. Bleed lines to caliper, Bleed at master (ensure you bench bleed before fitting)(may require another bleed at caliper) then bleed at the ABS unit. Go for a drive and rebleed calipers and ABS module. Won't have any problems if done right

Look good, I am more interested in that cast manifold they are testing....

So.......... Morgan Park was a fail on the brakes. One fast lap and still shudder. Had another booster from a s14 here so put it on and straight away with a quick blocky was so much better. Now I have a good work area again I spent the time to go right through the car, bolt check and marking everything. Found a notchy front wheel bearing so replaced it. Full fluid check too. Felt better after doing this as hadn't been done since January. With all this done next opportunity I had to drive was at Lakesides All Asian Day with 2 sprint sessions. Was a bit cautious on the warm up and first fast lap, felt good so sent it. Did a 59.07 then back to back 59.0's second session. Brakes felt great but took an extra lap to come up to temp. Was fastest car there by a considerable amount and shocked a few by how simple the car is. My mate with his mazda 2 was doing 68's making some fast cars look silly in the corners. All this was prep for Time Attack round 3 at Queensland Raceway. Was a cold morning and track took a while to warm up. Used the first session as warmup. The next 2 sessions went and ran 59.0's on clubman layout so was pretty happy as been chasing that for a while, there were mistakes on all laps but got a solid base to work from now. Car was great all day with only a small bit of oil from one of the side diff seals. Made a video Thats it for now, give it a wash ready for next event on the 22 June.

Why not use something like this? http://www.radiumauto.com/FCST-Fuel-Cell-Surge-Tank-P1497.aspx small high volume low pressure lift pump and 2x 400/425/460lph TI or bosch 39/40mm pumps be plenty OR 2x this would work with an adaptor fitting https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/AEM-400LPH-Metric-Inline-High-Flow-Fuel-Pump-50-1009

AVOID BRAKES DIRECT Have stuffed around so many mates in the past 18months and hearing more stories of bad customer service.

Best value........... https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/165900019651?hash=item26a06967c3:g:6qEAAOSwSOdjqVhv&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8C%2BdCsusVox3XxUhK3ZiFvts0Iy55uejoqdGDtbN3KFBlyCJ0Iw4j7sYBjppoq5%2B75RTWHeDLJoGT76cJNyYGgmiwFrHXMJ4M%2Fn4vkA8VO90YnBfBql2IhQnc5wmbNXQrnwFpLm6FLuSsbFC6BnXaSa%2FwVbXEB8hmMs9jk52ycwVMNQ5L%2Fxlc1q0UhKZuAhTalsCpmXv9aCGYDc2UCgnZ8FalU9wP%2FC%2F5Ut4YNQGTxnxahXiQgDixf5U73w8pWGNLnx0t2UJWtrC%2BDJfR7KTivVsocucxrdOwioWSO%2FcHhtSDLqhm6eIPFLDF0Q5VcsccQ%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBMvOePnY1i I have a EVO brembo setup and its around $6k with quality rotors, pads and refurb. Will only fit behind certain 17s so recommend 18 inch wheel with big brake clearance faces. Any brake setup will also require a BMC upgrade, possible new lines, may have ABS issues and a possible hand/park brake relocation.

I've been buying my kits off Kmak aero, seem to be better than some of the origin stuff I've seen https://www.kmakaero.com.au/shop-kmak-aero-products/r33-skyline-aero/

probably damaged ignition barrel. Check for continuity between the wires

get some extra fuel line and a T piece, a 0-100 psi guage. Ziptie it to windscreen wiper or somewhere you can see whilst driving. For resistance leave one end on battery Negative post then check all cables to chassis and engine and engine block. You can even check the resistance of the fuel pump windings, I don't know what they are for a stock fuel pump.

I've done tint, seat covers, dash & floor mats on the 2 appliances I've had new and the 370z I had ceramic coated and PPF lower front & skirts. Ceramic is easy to do. Good wash, clay bar and apply. PPF is very expensive to do a whole car and only worth on something is expensive $160+k as around $12-16k to do.

Also put a fuel pressure guage on the fuel line before the regulator, could be loosing fuel pressure as the car warms up. The pump would be failing, heating up and slowing down flow. Check all the grounds too, check the resistance using a multi meter P1320 being ignition/crank signal issue