EliSun

Hey Guys, as title states, i've just installed my SAFC2 (dont you just love it when you do shit yourselves and it works good?) well my SAFC2 works great EXCEPT for the throttle position readout. when I'm in monitor mode and the engine's off, the throttle readout is smooth and in sync with how much i push the gas pedal. however when the engine's running, the throttle readout is really rough / laggy. i'll push it down a bit and it'll jump as high as 80% when i push it down all the way though, it'll still read 100%. like it's only working at the two extremes. has anyone else come across this problem? any ideas what it could be or how to fix it? thanks guys

bad news for the glass then huh dammit . . yea, i'll be quite stoked if the sedan door handles work in my coupe! especially if the colours match up (silver facelift coupe / silver facelift sedan) here's hoping!

it could just be that the car was started and run for short periods of time, eg a home that's close to work etc. thats known to cause fouling of the plugs aswell. explain the low mileage and good condition

Hey Guys, some idiot tried to steal my car the other day. screw drivered the passenger side door lock, but couldn't get it opened, he then tried to enter the car by breaking the rear 1/4 window so now that my lock is stuffed, does anyone know if the rear door handles from a S2 Sedan would fit my S2 Coupe? there's no key holes in them, so i'm wondering if that would work to stop idiots screw driving my door locks . . and also, the rear 1/4 glass - anyone replaced one? do i need a special glue or is it a unscrew the glass & bracket, reinstall and done? any help appreciated, thanks guys

Hi, if you've got a 96+ (facelift) SILVER COUPE, your paint code should be KR5. i think KL0 was the prefacelift. i learnt this the hard way . . . GrRrRrR . . .

cheers thanks, yea the r34 interior is fakkin mint, personally, i think the GT-T cluster looks better than the R34 GT-R Cluster. really hoping this will work out, if anyone knows anything, any help will be appreciated. thanks

around 4750rpm is where your curve starts to fall it's definately some kind of flow limitation always start with the cheapest and easiest possible solutions: if you've got a 2835, surely you'd have the full 3" exhaust from the turbo back, high flow or no cat, straight as possible. check your fuel pump and ensure that it's grounded properly and is getting the correct voltage. check your sensors etc. does the Wolf V500 an AFM type ecu? limits of the stock rb25 afm are around around 230rwkw, alot of people upgrade to a z32 using a power fc at this stage. 1.1 bar should be enough boost, once you've got your 550cc injectors in, get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator and up the fuel pressure a bit. Edit: oh yea, also what type of "aftermarket fuel pump do you have?" bosch 044s are much much better than their 040 brothers.

Hi Guys, anyone ever attempted to perform this conversion? im quite keen as i love the r34's interior, but dont want the heavy r34 (or maybe i just cant afford one) would like to know whats involved, what do i have to do to make it work? i'm looking to change the entire dash, door trims etc. including making the r34 speedo cluster work with the r33 sensors and ecu... any help appreciated thanks

oh yea, mods are: APEXi Power Intake 3" Turbo Back, R32 Actuator SAFC2

Hey guys, i've got the opportunity of buying an OP6 R34 turbo for my S2 GTS25t whats the initial power increase i can expect if i just do the straight swap? thanks

because im not using a dual filament globe. its gonna be an issue using the factory park light plug which is why im using normal single filament bulbs. mostly would like to know what would happen if i wired the positive for the park light and the positive for the indicators together.

Ok, so i've got the indicators to blink at the normal rate just by taking the bulbs from the original indicators and putting them in the park light sockets - direct replacement. you can get these in orange, so it shouldn't be a problem with the law. they're 18w bulbs with wedge terminals. as for a dual filament bulb, there's still the issue with using the factory park light plug. what will happen if i wire my positive for the park lights and positive for the indicators together and activate them at the same time? explosion? lol... blown fuse?

Yeah, I know... how about if i split the positive for the park lights so that one goes to the relay and one goes to the park lights constantly? also want to make sure i dont blow anything up either :S

TTT

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ts-t274066.html

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...ts-t274066.html

sorry guys, but there wasn't an electrical / lighting section, so i thought you Car Audio nuts might be able to help me with this electrical problem.. i've recently accquired another GTS25t (s2) after moving city. i've taken out the fog light / indicator housings to make the car look more aggressive without really spending any money before / after looks pretty good doesn't it? so now i want to rewire my Indicators to my Park lights. however, i still want my park lights to turn on, and when im driving at night and need to indicate, make the parklight (and now indicator) flash as per normal indicator operation. so what i want to be able to achieve is PARK LIGHTS OFF, INDICATOR FLASH (when activated) PARK LIGHTS ON, INDICATOR FLASH (when activated) PARK LIGHTS OFF, IDICATOR OFF PARKLIGHTS ON, INDICATOR OFF sort of how US made cars have their tail lights on, and when they indicate to turn, their tail lights just flash. does anyone know how to make this happen? and how do I make the indicators flash at the normal rate? (instead of blinking about 3 times per second..) any help would be great thanks.

Hey Guys, Have my Power FC for sale, title says it all. Power FC & Commander tuned for a Dyno proven 219rwkw this was done using: Full 3" exhaust R34 SMIC R32 10psi Boost actuator GTR Fuel Pump Maxed Injectors and Exedy HD Clutch selling because im moving to Auckland NZ $1250.00 incl shipping note: car is sold sorry!

THIS was the very first mod i did on my RB25. Holds boost at 10psi from around 3000rpm all the way to the redline. 10PSI . rock solid, not 12, not 10.1, not 9.9. 10psi. as for the 2 stage boost solenoid. cut the ground wire, strip 10mm off and ground it by screwing it under the solenoid mounting nut, done. drop the bonnet and go for a quick drive. make sure you put back any and all hoses that you undo. (you do not want to boost 2bar) oh yea, for the r32 actuator vacuum hose, you're going to need something about 100mm longer. less than $5.00 from any performance shop. you'll love yourself for doing this mod, your tyres and petrol tank won't have fun out there.

Not sure? is there any way to visually tell? its got a 4 bolt pattern with rectangle opening. T3 is 4 bolts, rectangle opening?, t25 is 3 bolts, circular opening? Im in Auckland, NZ

Hi Guys, The humble r33 GTS25t. we all know it's got alot going for it: good looks good power, solid engine etc etc as far as i know, it seems that most of them can get up to 220rwkw on the standard turbo with all supporting mods. alot of s15s are capable of up to 237rwkw on the standard turbo with all supporting mods. this is dyno proven with the usual PFC, full 3", cams etc etc everything upgraded except the turbo. why? i know the RB25det turbo cant handle boost etc, but what about a similar spec turbo to an S15? would it be able to make the same power? this is also with the usual PFC, full 3", cams etc etc everything upgraded except the turbo. an s15 upgrading to a GTRS is capable of up to 260rwkws too.. so tell me why is the RB25det only making 280rwkw at the most with a GTRS? it's got 25% more displacement etc, why are s15's so close in comparison in terms of power when on paper, we should have a much better performing engine? thanks

Hi Guys, I've got the oppurtunity of purchasing a GTRS turbine housing (.64) I want to know if it would bolt up to the standard r33 / r34 turbo core this is to save me looking for an r34 OP6 .63 turbo and rear housing. reason for doing this is i'm wanting to high flow an r34 turbo for my r33. so i want a hybrid turbo using a HKS GTRS .64 turbine housing, r33 core and compressor housing high flowed. CAN IT BE DONE?? thanks guys

what was the problem and how did you fix it? this could be useful?

Turbo is by far the easier, simpler, better option. but by all means, nothing wrong with a RB30DER It'd also help if you at least had a power goal and budget in mind. there are a few ways you can go about doing this. you can either turbo your current N/A engine, but the power figures will be quite limited before you can really chase power numbers however its a good way to get a really reponsive street car with the extra poke from a puffer bolted on the side. high compression + small turbo = instant torque OR you can go for an RB25det transplant. with this, you can wring out 300rwkw on the (almost) standard head and internals, and if you use the search function, there'll be plenty of old threads that you can dig up for advice as its probably the most common engine on here. IF I WERE YOU: i'd sell the beast and buy something turbo from the factory however if you can bring yourself to sell, i'd just bolt a turbo on the side. reasons being, you'll be able to save money by getting yourself a turbo manifold etc and bolting it on without having to change gear box & drive shaft & diffs & etc etc. however, you'll need a bit of help with oil / water lines going to the turbo, but in the long run i think it'd be cheaper if you just want to feel the power and torque that turbos offer. if you want to eventually build a serious track / drift / street car, i'd go for the transplant hope this helps dude, best of luck

I hope you don't take this the wrong way, but I'm lost as to what your initial question was. other than asking anyone if they've had any experience with a T51R, you're not asking anything else ie. how to get to 500rwkw with a T51R? seems more like you've just come on here to TELL everyone what your intention is, not how to get there. However, since we're all TRYING to be helpful; to get to 500rwkw (minimum) you'll need: Complete Engine rebuild with forged pistons, rods, crank. New bearings etc etc Extensive head work such as cams, valves, valve springs, valve seats etc etc Triple plate clutch kit & matching flywheel (incredibly hard to learn to drive) Usual fuel system upgrades including ecu (surprisingly an apexi power fc can manage 500rwkw) Much wider front & rear tyres which means exterior mods such as wide bodying. It's a long way to 500rwkw but if you'd like more/better help, you'd be doing yourself some good to be more concise with what you need help with. hope this helps and good luck if you're serious about all this 500rwkw rb25de business