Nathan76

tighten and recheck your battery terminals, after that it could possibly be a voltage drop and it may need a starter relay. was the car automatic before ? if so check the bypass wiring on the inhibitor switch

from those photos they just look like casting marks not cracks at all. the only time i have seen a bell housing crack is when people rattle the bellhousing bolts up unevenly or with something caught inbetween block and bell housing

did the purple r33gtr have white wheels?

200km out of half a tank so am happy with the improvement

small 2 wire plug that will be attached to the a/c hose usually in the allow peice of hose i will check on my 33 exact location and let you know tonight

if it is struggling under load check your fuel filter/fuel pump

find the pressure switch and bridge the plug with a paper clip, also pull the ac belt off and spin the compressor by hand to make sure the clutches aint seized

whats got me scratching my head is that when it comes on boost it seems to pull stronger when i'm at 2/3 or 3/4 throttle and if i nail it it makes the noises and sounds like its going hard but doesn't really seem to pull well at all by this do you mean its reving its tits off and not pulling hard? if so possible your clutch is slipping

spotted a grey r33 with a SAU sticker on the rear quater on hume hwy at liverpool at about 7.40ish and a nice clean black R32 on the great western hwy at about 7.10ish horn dont work so didnt beep

i refitted my bosch 040 in my 33 after the guy owned it before me sta it in the factory position so i could use a full tank of fuel and get rid of fuel surging round corners, was a good write and showed me where to position the pump correctly to get the most out of it without the noisy pump issue just becarefull as i had mine suck up a pump full of sedement and had to pull the tank out to clean it, this is not a fun job on a R33 at all.

i take it no one is sure?

sounds to me like it has jumped a tooth, i would be redoing the engine timing properly not just from the cam gear adjuster

does it do it hot or cold? what ecu is it running?

different ecu, check the output values in a workshop manual i reckon ur pissin into a wind but

check your battery connections but it sounds like its running heaps rich from what your are talking about with the smoke i would be re checking intake pipeing

Try checking the connections under the center console near the selector

I have a R33 s1 with a fmic, 3inch exhaust, pfc, Z32 air flow meter (cleaned it to) and avcr i have replaced the O2 sensor and removed the pod airfilter and refitted the standard air box with a k and n filter and also removed the atmo bov and refitted the standard plumb back bov. The PFC was tuned with the atmo bov fitted is this going to prevent me seeing better fuel economy? or will the pfc adapt to the changes over a couple of tanks of fuel? or do i need to have the thing retuned?

check the high pressure house for any sign of leakage and remove the low pressure return line and blow compressed air through as if it is blocked can cause the pump to cavitate

i would be inspecting high pressure hose for any signs of leak, and removing the return line (low pressure line) and blowing compressed air through it to make sure it is not blocked as this will cause the pump to cavitate

Give your fuel tank a few whacks and while some one tries to start the car this will sometimes shock a dead fuel pump back to life, to check it in a no start scenario pull the fuel feed line off and put it in a bottle and get some one to crank the car be carfeull to sheilds your eyes Is weird that the reds wearnt on at one stage, test your battery as they are notorious for not wanting to start with low cranking voltage

will be either low brake fluid, a bad connection at the handbrake switch wiring u can get to it by pulling the cover off or worse case scenario removing the center console also check the low fluid level warning switch on your master cylinder resovoir

Removing and replacing a gearbox isnt that hard if you have some mechanical background but if your not sure what your doing find some one to help you who does cause the last thing you want to do is f**k it up and turn a couple of hour job into something more expensive. Not saying a newbie couldnt pull it off just saying it helps to have some one there who can help you dodge the pitfalls

The noise that goes away when you put your foot oin the clutch sounds like your clutch release bearing, it is a box out job to fix the squeek from the pedal itself could be a cracked pedal box or where the return spring fits into the pedal box there is a white plastic insert that cracks it isnt a major problem wouldnt be much fun to fix but you would have to pull the pedal box and then source the little plastic insert there are 2 of them and each end of the spring goes through holes in the pedal box the inserts go in the holes inbetween the spring and the holes in the box

if anyone else comes across it, it is pretty easy to repair remove the pivot/lock pin from the clutch master cylinder - clutch pedal then undo the 2 nuts on the master cylinder and the one 12mm that bolts through into the top of the fire wall under the dash and wiggle the pedal box free Liverpool exhaust charged me 30 bucks to weld it up and i refitted it took me about 2 hours all up incuding welding. looking at the design of the clutch pedal box i would say its fairly common.

Have just discovered i have a broken weld on my R33 clutch pedal box, car is still drivable but means i have about and inch of clutch pedal movement and is of course going to get worse by the quick look i had under the dash it looks like a side strut support that keeps the pedal straight. Is it possible to pull clutch pedal box out with out pulling out the dash? is it a common problem and if it is what have other people done to fix it?