Jap_Muscle

yeh i ended up doing that, the guy asked me to email him with my questions and hell get back to me. i hope he does T_T

sounds great but i had a look on the justjap website and they didnt list any diff spring rates. do you know if the BC kits have upper piller mounts? any thoughts on where to get diff spring rates? yeh your car sounds like its got wat it needs, damn drifters and their high spring rates. makes my ass numb edit:: just had a look at the justjap website again and it dosnt look like they have the ER version of the coilovers. ill have to give BC direct a call to see if they have them =[

thanks for the advice Tim. ive heard that the extreme kits are BuddyClub stuff but i cant confirm that. in terms of what you currently have 9kg and 8kg sounds super stiff. are you hooking up with traction at all? in a RWD car id try to keep it as close to OEM spring rates as possible.....why do people go so hard? in terms of price atm the super streets are the most expensive sitting at $2300 followed by pedders then BC with 1500, 1200 respectively. has anyone looked into custom bilstein shocks with custom springs? expensive? id be looking at something with high damper valving and low rebound valving, which is usally a problem because in coilovers you can only adjust both at the same time which isnt ideal for drag

bumpo

just got off the phone with some of the representatives @ pedders and it seems that the spring rates in the pedders are extremely high!! at least for what i want the car to do. something like 6kg/mm in the rears compared to 4kg/mm that the Super Streets have. also found out that the pedders kits dont come with upper pillar mounts to adjust camber....=[

hey guys just in the process of putting together some custom shock/spring combos and wanted to know the standard typical 10yr old r34 skylines had in terms of spring rates. Sydneykid who is a well informed being when it comes to suspension has recommended ideally 2.5kg/mm but no more then 3kg/mm spring rates in the rear if possible. just trying to see if this would be TOO soft for the once a month trip to the milkbar for some maxibons **nom nom nom** cheers

thanks al ill check em out

hey guys just managed to put a kit on my r34 and want it spray painted professional in a jet black colour (cars original colour is black) alot of people recommend DT panelts but from what ive seen when i drive past is they seem to dry all their parts in the sun and dont have a spraypainting room which im not a fan of. havnt had a chat to them personally but im looking for a good quality job and willing to pay for it. any help much appreciated.

thats fine buddy ill get onto the ADR cert from blits first thing after the public holiday.

bump

bump guys, really need this gone as i have no use for it!

it idles high all the time. only sometimes when the motor is cold it idles lower but only sometimes, but as soon as i start driving it starts idling high again. i highly doubt i have any vacuum leaks because i have no boost issues. ill will confirm with my tuner if he actually cleaned the control idle valve.

hey guys, trying to sort out this issue im having with the idle in my car. just some specs on the motor r34 gtt exhaust port+match rb26 head fully forged rb30 bottom end gt35 .82 vband straight pipe 3.5" exhaust 1000cc inj OEM rb26 plenum + tbs OEM rb26 cams PFC D jetro ecu while in motion at any speed if i clutch in the revs go up to ~2000rpm and sit there until the car comes to a stop where it will drop down to around ~1700rpm. sometimes it will bounce around from ~1000rpm to ~2000rpm, somtimes will just sit at 2300rpm. occasionally when i start the car on a cold day/night it will idle nice at 1000-1200rpm but as soon as the car gets moving and i eventually have to stop and clutch in, the above scenario starts. im spoken to my tuner and he seems to have tried a few things like playing around with the idle control valve (not sure on specifics) but has had no success. his mentioned something about it being 3L and the amount of air the motor flows is so high, its causing problems. i see 800hp cars idle nice and fine so why cant i? i dont know much about the tuning side of it and was wondering what can be done about it? i should mention that i had no issues what so ever when i ran a single plazmaman plenum + 80mm tb when i had a rb25 in the car. any help much appreciated guys! i look like a completely idiot at the lights with such a high idle

hey buddy, i dont know if you got my pm but id appreciate you cleaning up your false comments in my for sale thread. cheers

just spoke with blits and and have confirmed that nothing has changed. they are ADR approved by the Queensland transport department however this approval is valid Australia wide.

unless somethings changed since i bought the bonnets. they are ADR ("Australian" Design Rules) not Queensland design rules, however they were approved by the queensland transport company but this dosnt change anything . Their website states that their bonnets are Street Legal Australia Wide. i will confirm this again tomorrow when i call them. id appreciate that you remove your post once i confirm it.

thanks for confirming buddy. learned the hardway T_T if anyones interested in a brand new set of bride rails you can find them here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/an...ra-t322665.html

hey guys, made a fool of my self today when i purchased some Bride Hyper low Seat rails which lower the seat height by 35mm which only fit GTRs. selling because i obviously dont have one =[ only looking for what these cost me to import BRAND NEW **PAIR** still in box (only opened a few hrs ago to fit and realised they dont fit) re-sealed and includes all manuals and certifications of authenticity. Part Numbers N303HL and N304HL Product Ref: Click Here $600 - pickup melbourne *if your interested in interstate shipping that will be at your expense. pics: contact me via: PM [email protected] 0421691338 Thanks

hey guys ive just purchased a set of BRIDE HYPER LOW seat rails from japan. went to fit them into the car today and they dont even bolt up to the car floor =[ i confirmed a dozen times the make model to fit my car (but i understand bride made their skyline rails to fit all models (BNR34 ECR33 BNR32 ER34 ect ect). but it still dosnt line up......how could this possibly happen =[ just incase anyone knows there part numbers ect i got a N303L N304HL for a ER34 pics to follow but any help much appreciated =[

melbourne buddy PM me if you interested

hey james i just noticed your thread and was wondering if you got your hands on a set of r34 headlights yet? i just pulled mine out and no longer need them. let me know if your interested. 0421691338 melbourne

what are you interested in swaps wise? are you still looking at imports? modified or standard?

proven 250+rwkw setup. please keep in mind the price ranges go from basic just jap shit to high end japanese brands minimum 3" turbo back exhaust ($1500 - $2500) 040 bosch fuel pump ($300) FMIC ( $300 - $2000 Power FC (or alt REPLACEMENT ECU not piggy back) ($1500 - $2000) highflow oem turbo (but personally id go with a gt28 turbo) ($800 - $1500 ) personally i would stay away from a highflow, its pointless and a waste. you can spend another $300 and get a gt28 turbo that flows almost 2x as much and is a much better. and you could sell your r34 turbo to someone who does want a highflow for a good $400. the key is to use good parts to give you room to upgrade on later on rather then replacing it all together like shitty piggy back ecus. my 2c

its a hard question to answer which depends on the purpose of the car. you drifting before. if thats the case then you want hard suspension and traction really isnt as important as someone who is after drag/track. i highly doubt a upgrade to 235s would change anything. the reason your car oversteers is because of your rear suspension/tyres.

id like to also have some nice photos for the memories. ive had the car for about 4 years now and am prob gonna move on from imports and save for a merc/bmw or something.