
Jap_Muscle
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Everything posted by Jap_Muscle
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Cleaning The Inside Of The Headlight
Jap_Muscle replied to and3_3's topic in Exterior & Interior Styling
Melbourne Headlight Exchange 2/130 Bridge Rd, Keysborough VIC 3173 (03) 9706 3922 Speak to Jodi will set you back about $80 per headlight. but they come out brand new =D -
Hey guys, just got my hands on a mfd ver.II upgrade for my mfd. however i was hoping if anyone know how to install these? it didnt come with any instructions =[
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ill give it a go. thanks guys
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Its a optima yellow top D34 BRAND NEW....been sittn in the garage for 1week. been in the car for 2. Specs: http://www.optimabatteries.com.au/Content/.../D34_082104.pdf I know the battery isnt dead. fully charged it overnight with a CTEK charger. metered the draw when the car was off and it was sitting at 11volts and it still dosnt start. so i jump start it with another car. i end up driving the car for about 2 hours. as soon as i turn it off and try to start it again. nothing happens again. im thinking it may have something to do with the alternator not charging the battery? but i was hoping someone could clarify how a car starts exactly? does it purely relies on the battery to start or is it a combo of the alternator and battery.
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Hey Guys, Got a bit of a tricky one here. Everytime i try to start the car the battery loses power. i attached a meter onto the terminals of the battery and basically its at 80% charge. after trying to start the car. it drops to 50%. if i give it another go the battery is completely dead and the car dosnt move. the strange thing is.....the lights audio all seem to work fine though. wats going on you think?
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im sorry if i cant read but what sort of mileage has it done?
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hey ash, no unfortunately i havnt. i just managed to save up 3k for a Nismo Super Coppermix clutch....and just put that into the car. i just wanted to gauge any other thoughts on what the issue may be. ive done a bit of reading on valve float and from what i understand its when the springs are not in contact with the cams or something right? if im running standard cams should this still be a problem? i thought this was only a issue when the cams are upgrading to bigger ones with bigger lifts? getting a bit off track i know....but if anyone could entertain me just this once id really appreciate it.
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hey guys how you all doin. i was hoping for some advice since most of the power experts seem to gather in this thread. just made 320kw @ 20psi on my rb26/30 but thats all it will make. the heads completely stock apart from having some minor porting and polishing. gt35r, .82 rear, 6boost manifold, standard gtr plenum. some ppl have suggested valve float and to get new springs. i was just wondering if anyone had any other ideas before i take the plunge on the springs. theres so many gt35r .82 users smashing 400kw on a rb30.....and i cant sleep at night knowing im not apart of that club lol any thoughts much appreciated. ::edit:: after skipping though the thread a few more times i came across some stupid, premature and quite naive comments i made. i guess i was just taking my poor build out on others and im sorry. i just hope those of you will forgive me and show me on the right path. Thanks guys
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any thoughts on solutions?
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I'm not sure exactly what these thermo fans are but I havnt touched the fans so it should be running whatever fan came with the car. unfortuntely all it does is limit the amount of air. I can still feel the hot air. I'm still in the process of checking all the sensors but I just tried the system today (raining and all). it blows cold air but the more I drive the car te air gets hotter. regardless if it's on 18 turned off or on.
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workshop manual? i'm not very familiar with it sorry. where would u get such a thing? and how does it work?
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will do buddy. thanks again!
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it does indeed do this, but ive always had it set to 18c on the board....turned on or off it blows hot air. ill check all the sensors...hopefully they all working
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well now that you mention it the AC isnt working....i never knew it was linked. would it still be stuck on heat even if the AC control is off? or using different settings? if it is indeed stuck on heat...how does one fix this? i suspect it has something to do with the Wiring into the ECU? (im using a PFC)
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hey guys, ill try to keep this short. Basically i recently got my car back after a big build (rb26/30, gt35r, top mount, ect ect) and ive noticed how hot it gets when im driving the car.....i realised that theres alot of heat comming from under the dash (where the pedals are) and the air con vents. I assumed it was because of the heat the engine was producing. i also had alot of issues with the water temp hitting 110c sometimes. so i spent a good amount of money ceramic coating the entire exhaust side. Including manifold, turbo housing, dump pipe ect. the only thign i didnt coat was the wastegate (hard stuff to coat without dismatling the thing). I even bought a new Koyo Radiator to help with water temps. But nothing changed.....i feel like its gotten hotter. The only thing i can think of is that i am currently using a screamer pipe....but it never was an issue before the build, then again i wasnt running a bit top mount. have you guys got any ideas?
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ive got a complete set and would really only be interested in selling it together. lookn for $300 pm me if interested
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The Cops Are Ramping It Up - Leave The Skyline At Home!
Jap_Muscle replied to Spunky Munky's topic in Victoria
it really leaves me with a sad expression on my face. that we dont have a system in place to make sure correct procedures are followed. But whats worse is those of us who till this day still give a bad name for everyone.....and quite frankly the whole reason we are like this.