PhilKenSebben

I love having a few cars at my disposal, but then I don't have to pay for anything except the Skyline, so I can see your hesitation. My missus has a Corolla for day to day, I have a company Hiace (god I love vans, I don't see the appeal of utes!) and the skyline remains an occasional toy. The skyline's been getting re-sprayed for a good 2 months, and I just don't care. The van moves stuff when I need it to (which is great when moving house in the rain watching all those poor bastards with utes full of furniture and a tarp wrapped around it!) and the Corolla is any other time. My brother lives with us too and I really need a photo of all the cars lined up with the caption "combo breaker". A white Toyota Hilux, a white Toyota Corolla, a white Toyota Hiace, black Nissan Skyline. Spot the odd one out.

settle down mate. I asked because I had a non-adjustable for sale but it's gone now anyway.

Yeah I don't care. I won't sell mine anyway. I'm in the middle of a proper PPG jet black/ deltron lamborghini and mercedes approved matte clear respray, and I think it looks great. Lots of people told me I was an idiot, but even the painter, who was against it originally, says it's growing on him each time he sees it. I would love to add pics as part of a build-up thread on here, but I'm fairly computer illiterate and don't know how to re-size the 5mb+ pics my DSLR takes. Anyone?

Why exactly does it have to be adjustable? It's either correct or it ain't

I don't think they get broken on removal so much. They're a bit of a bitch to remove but generally quarter glasses are broken when someone locks their keys in the car and figures, "It's the smallest window, it should be the cheapest to replace." Then they discover it's the only glass that's encapsulated, making it by far the most expensive. The moral of this story is to KEEP A SPARE KEY IN YOUR WALLET PEOPLE!

I bought the SIN product at the bottom, but can only find it in 2.5 litre bottles for around $50 each. Let me know if you know anywhere selling 1 litre bottles.

It is horrible. Especially if your other windows are grey. No photos on hand but a good example is jap import vans around the mid 90's era. Do a quick google search on things like delicas, and the toyota estima van. Some have that silver look and others are bronze. In my opinion it's awful. We've tinted these before when nothing else was available to try to match the rest of the car and it can certainly help, but it will still be far from perfect.

Nope, Nissan couldn't tell me anything about it. Bastards. I simply wanted to see what the service manual said, and now I have. Cheers. Except I only got 2.5 litres for the gearbox and I don't think it'll be enough. Thanks Penrite. I even re-checked the manual in case I had mis-read the amount, as no other oil company seems to agree with this volume. A mechanic has told me that the filler hole is the correct method UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED. He told me he did work on a euro once that specified NOT to fill to the side filler hole, but to use a measured amount. Given that the RB25 manual says no such thing, I'll settle on that. By the way, it's not that I instantly dismiss the opinions of others on here, as I obviously don't know enough myself to do that. It's merely that I know better than to accept everything written on internet forums as gospel, and all I really wanted to know was Nissan's perspective on the matter. It's the one viewpoint that I haven't been able to find in my searching, and I found that odd.

WOW! I may have to amend this post slighty, going genuine Nissan windscreen moulds is an expensive exercise! I asked for pricing so that I can change mine when I get my respray, and it's scary. The lower piece is about 10 feet of thin plastic with double sided tape on the back to secure it to the body. $236. Holy crap. The top piece is about 10 feet of plastic that clips into the lower piece to cover the edge of the glass. $127. Holy crap. Lower piece for the rear glass. $171 Upper piece for the rear glass. $127 So genuine Nissan will set me back roughly $660 compared to an aftermarket universal rubber moulding which will cost me nothing, but average joe around $35. Hmmmmm.....

Okay, just so I have this straight, because I am trying to keep track Your figure is for a S1 R33 GTS25t, yes? Castrol VMX-80 for the gearbox, 2.8 litres of? And 75-90 for the diff, volume recommended?

I am currently planning to upgrade my fuel system, and the Bosch 040 was my first choice. However I have read too many threads stating that not only will I have to chop up my harness, but because the 040 feeds from the flat base, which doesn't sit in the factory pumps position on the bottom of the tank, many members have suggested never running my fuel gauge below the half to quarter full mark. Now my 33 is only my weekend toy, but that doesn't mean I'm not at least partially concerned by A) Never being able to travel more than roughly 300 kms without fueling up B) Leaving half a tank of old fuel in my car to be mixed with the fresh batch, especially considering how long a tank of fuel lasts me in a weekend only toy Add to that many posts about how noisy the 040 can be, and suddenly my decision is not so clear cut. R31Nismoid, would you recommend a NISMO item to remove these issues?

Yeah thanks count duckula. For future reference, if you ever need to top up your engine oil, just open the filler cap, and pour it in till it starts flowing out the top. Remember, you CAN'T run too much oil! You find it hard to believe that Penrite recommends 2 litres for the gearbox and 1 litre for the diff? Well bad news. They do. Are they correct? I don't know. But some people on this forum believe in doing some research before adding posts. Others just fling shit. You sir, are the latter. What Nissan recommends is not "kind of irrelevant". It may not be perfect, but I trust Nissan to know their product better than you do. And so will others. What a shock. And yes, I also find it hard to believe that no one on here has the service manual for the R33 GTS25t, it is probably the most common car owned on these forums, and it SHOULD have the recommended viscosities and volumes clearly printed in it. PMs sent.

Nup. I've read it all as well mate. Everytime anyone asks they get told "do a search you dumb bastard" and get pointed towards a thread with 100 different members all giving conflicting advice. The one thread that keeps being pointed to has some advice from SK first (stickied) but he doesn't even mention what model it is for, so it's pointless. I've asked every auto parts distributor I can find, as they all sell different brands. Penrite for instance says 2 litres in the gearbox and 1 litre in the diff for my R33 gts25t. Members on here are telling others to add 4 litres to the gearbox and 2 to the diff! So I can run WAY too much or WAY too little. Penrite suggests 4.1 for GTR gearbox. Then select another brand and the figures change again. I could deal with marginal variances, but double the figure? That's insane. I'm going to ask Nissan tomorrow if I get a chance and PM you if you like, no sense adding to the confusion by posting another volume publicly.

CORRECTION TO THE ABOVE POST! The radiator fan arrived today, looking an awful lot like an A/C condenser fan. They ordered me the wrong part, so..... Radiator clutch fan (plastic blades)-----------------------------2106075T01 A/C condenser fan (blades only not shroud)------------------9212110Y00

Picked up a new one for my ECR33 today from Auto One. Brand is Walker, $120 and is supposed to be direct fit. According to the box, it's the same as an N14 Pulsar 2.0? Part no. EGO-018 HAVE NOT tried to fit it yet, will do it on the weekend, but the plug certainly looks the same. Even came with a small tube of anti-seize for the thread. Groovy. Took photos but my DSLR takes photos that are around 7MB each, so stuff it, you'll live.

Part numbers for ECR33 Series 1 Radiator clutch fan (plastic blades)------------------------------9212110Y00 Front windscreen mould fastener (attached to body)----------7272522U00 Front windscreen mould (clips into fastener)-------------------7275222U00 Rear windscreen mould fastener (attached to body)----------7978022U00 Rear windscreen mould (clips into fastener)-------------------7975222U00 Standard thermostat---------------------------------------------2120042L06

I know this thread is a few months old, but I'm also undecided on the satin/matte finish. My car is going to be black, no question. A good satin black job looks a LOT better than gloss black in my opinion. And the painter reckons it'll hold up just fine. HOWEVER, he has one reservation. If the car gets something on the paintwork that can't be washed off easily, you can simply polish gloss paint. He says that if you ever need to polish the satin paint, it will start to get shinier. In other words, in a few years time you may have shiny/gloss looking sections on your satin paintwork. And that'll look stupid. Such a pity........satin black rocks. Observe.

A guy I used to work with showed me his magical power bracelet. I called him a twit. He made me do some of the tests, and lo and behold, the bracelet helped! So I handed him a magical rock, and he performed the same tests. Lo and behold, this incredible rock performed just as well! Amazing! In fact I'm willing to sell you a magical power rock/clothespeg/peanut butter jar that will give you the same results for HALF THE PRICE! PM if you can't wait to buy these items Mate I'm not certain but aren't you the same guy who asked if 22 inch rims and airbag suspension would fit on your r33? I sense a pattern emerging.....

Yeah they tried that. It was called the DMC Delorean. And it sucked balls. However it did feature an optional flux capacitor to enable time travel, which was perfect for all those customers wanting to go back and warn themselves not to buy a Delorian.

I know it's probably a little late, but what model are we talking here? Most of these guys are talking about removing mastic or butyl sealer, when in fact you are likely dealing with urethane. I know my r33 is urethane. If you can't just peel it off by hand, it's urethane. And you will have to cut it off, of wire wheel it off. But all models of skyline have encapsulated quarter windows, so just mask it off, dry fit the windows to make sure you won't be putting paint anywhere that won't be covered by the window seal, and spray anywhere the paint is damaged. No blending required, as you won't see the edge anyway. Done. Oh but use a fresh stanley blade if you cut it so you don't slip and put a scratch where it will be visible, and you'll be fine. Do not try to heat gun it. The paint will bubble long before the urethane will melt, trust me.

$260 provided it doesn't need moulds. If it does, go genuine Nissan. They'll look 100% despite costing a lot more than an aftermarket one. And the mould comes in 2 pieces, so the cost is greater. And if you really care about this car, be prepared to find a little rust. Make sure you let the fitters know to tell you if they find surface rust as this would be the time to tackle it.

About to pay $7k for mine. I've left it for so long as there is so much I could do with that money that actually improves performance, but I'll be a lot happier once it's done and then I can go back to pissing away money in other areas. Pity my gts-t would probably sell for all of $12k. Oh well, best not to think about that too much.......... Perhaps it's time to think about buying that 34 GTR instead.... it'll be cheaper in the long run..... Uh oh.....I've stumbled across another moral dilemma. Dammit!

See that guys? Praise from the main man himself. Take THAT, all you sh!tstirrers! Nice work Charles.

I dunno, I reckon twin tips in a larger size would look better. Are they functional or just for show like the lexus LF-A quad tips? If they're actually connected then 4 tips at that size should be fine, hence the size is not as important. If they're there to look pretty then larger would look better if you modified the rear bar to accomodate them more seamlessly.

The small lip spoiler you pointed out is what I'll settle for if I can't source what I'm really after before respray time, but here's hoping. Thizzle is right, I'm after the East Bear specifically because I had read on a UK forum that the Do-Luck version was a sort of boot addition that would require time fitting, etc. However, given how difficult it seems to be to get my paws on either, at the right price I'd settle for either, and a custom is job is not completely out of the question yet. I'm a patient person who can wait for the right price, but time is running out as I'd like it to get it done with the rest of the body. I posted a WTB topic on R33 smoked side indicators probably a year ago and still haven't got my hands on some. May have to bite the bullet and buy them new for $100. I'm stunned that more parted out wreck threads don't sell them. And every now and then I stumble across old threads like, say, THIZZLE'S, where he sells the parts I want and then PRACTICALLY GIVES AWAY AN ENTIRE BLOODY SHELL FOR PEANUTS! And all because I never saw it when it was relevant. Balls............