PhilKenSebben

Less than 3 minutes!? Are we using primers here? You're also assuming the guy has: Olfa knife and blade Glass primer Body primer Urethane gun Urethane You couldn't buy that lot for less than $50, and even if you could, you're assuming he's willing to do a job he may have never attempted

5 minutes to remove the broken glass and fit a new one!??!? Dude if you can do that I can get you a job as a fitter anytime! In an 8 hour day I'll get 10-15 glasses done, depending on the jobs. My boss will be stoked if you can punch out 96 jobs a day!

Nice youtube link. 5000k is like daylight. And yet he still fails to see the stop sign. Hmmmmmm

Cut and polish mate, she'll be right..... Seriously, to repair you'll be looking at least Rear window Rear bar RHR quarter panel Beaver panel Boot lid At least one tail light....I'm guessing Plus a lot of labour and painting costs.........minimum. If it's a 34 gtt you'll likely find the best deal will be to buy another car and part that one out, you'll be surprised how much of those parts will sell, and it'll all add up. I've said before I had a friend in NZ who used to buy cars and part them out, even if they were in perfect registerable condition, cos parts alone fetch a hell of a lot more than the car as a whole. I really hope you owned that car before you joined this forum.....if you wrote one off in under 11 days I would suggest you stick with the civic....or maybe a Volvo

Water marks on glass are a tricky one. At our windscreen shop we have a custom blend the boss' dad made of chemicals, acids, etc. We rub it on, wait a minute, then hose it off. Some glasses come out spotless. Others, like my skyline, come out looking no different. Bitchin' And if you leave it on too long before hosing it it'll eat in and give the glass a permanent 'foggy' look. Thankfully I found that out on my wing mirror and simply cut a new one. I have a feeling it varies widely with a) Time the marks have been there b) City of origin hence type of horrible chemical in their rain Oh and all badges are attached with quality double-sided tape. Just clean both parts with prepsol and use a reputable brand, I've found 3M very good.

This happened to mine not 3 days ago. Although I could open my door so no probs. Start by pulling out the door handle/lock surround on the inside. No screws, just a few little clips. This will allow you to grab the steel rod with a pair of pliers/vice grips and will give you more pulling power without the risk of breaking the plastic lock switch or door handle. Mine was simply a small piece of plastic jammed into place preventing the mechanism from opening. Don't know where it came from but I removed it and all was well so f@#k it. Anyways try to unlock and open the door this way first. If it is just something jammed in place, the extra force may budge it just enough, as the plastic handles will not allow as much force to be applied. FORCE: Sometimes it's the only way. Other times it just seems like a good idea at the time, and can be fun when frustrated.

What is wrong with simply undoing the lower radiator hose and opening the top bleed screw? Physics dictates that so long as the car is level, every drop of coolant below the bleed screw (highest point) will come out of the bottom radiator hose, both from the radiator itself and the block. That's how I've always done it, is it wrong? Oh and make sure the heater is on to flush those lines too....

+1 for Dan's LED kits. I had an EL gauge kit in my 33 and while it was ok (apart from the needles not lighting up properly because the bulbs had to be removed or else light would shine in around the EL gauges looking poxy) it was far from worth it. The main problem was requiring the removal of the needles to install them, and once they were back on, they had spots where they would 'stick'. They still worked fine but I was just annoyed and everyone commented on my dash being 'broken'. After this I simply replaced the old bulbs for brand spankers, not even LED's, and it looked fantastic, like brand new. Bright white with strong red needles. I bought the blue LED from Dan because I like the look of blue gauges, and they're really cheap in the grand scheme of modifying imports. I'm happy now but even if I wasn't I could bin them and be out $20, boo hoo..... the chinese EL dials go for around $100. Try new bulbs first, I reckon you'll be stoked with the result

Yes, it is, and I'm rather interested in the results... Was the bench flow test ever performed? This is a pretty old thread.

I think you'll find the only reason this GTR copy bar couldn't be swapped from s1 to s2, or vice versa, is because the grill between the headlights is integrated into the front bar. This means that the different shape of the headlights will cause a drama. However, a simple standard s1 or s2 front bar separates the grill, and the top of the bar is completely flat. Regardless of the headlights, they should both fit. Don't hold me to that, it may be that simple things like bolt hole positions etc are wildly different, especially if the front reo is different, but judging by the overall shape of the two, I'd bet the front bar alone IS a straight swap. If it's the headlights you're after, however, THEN you're gunna need grill, bonnet, quarter panels, headlights, a truckload of cash for shipping costs......

I particularly enjoyed an article in Wheels a few years back that discussed the RACQ/RACV findings that sepeeding was a factor in roughly 11% of all fatal road accidents in the past year. In other words, 89% of all fatalities have NOTHING TO DO WITH SPEEDING! Speeding can definitely be dangerous but they focus so much attention on a problem that figures show to be a minority. Remember they also state that speed "is a factor" in 11% of road fatalities. So if a 12 year old steals a car, while drunk, with 7 mates in the back, and they have no seatbelts, and the tyres are bald, and he's steering with his feet so he can smoke a bong while he drives, in the wet, and they run a red light and hit another car whilst doing 70 km/h in a 60 zone, then this too can be placed in the "speed was a contributing factor" basket. Solution: speed cameras! So of course if you just steal the car to begin with then you're sweet.

Old toyota. Nuff said. I bought a 79 corolla in 99 for $1500. Took the kms from 336000 to 412000. Sold it to a mate for $1000. He took that old 5K engine through to 580000. And the engine didn't die! The cops told him to fix the rust, and he didn't bother, just left it on the side of the road. I've seen it driving around since, covered in bog. Sweet ride that.

Scathing, while I agree Porsche's exterior design engineers should have stopped being paid around the 70's, when they stopped doing any work, I can't go with the "tastes like shit" analogy. People buy them because they are APPARENTLY one of the world's best driver's cars. I haven't driven one so my view is worth zip. But a phrase that is uttered by so many journalists the world over is "people who don't like Porsches, have obviously never driven one." And come on, the GT3 is still a sexy car. Maybe not as sexy as the F430, but you'd still consider selling your soul for one.

I'm stunned the fuel system is coping. What's the injector duty cycle like?

Yeah, probably the battery. Or the harmonic combobulator has ceased combobulation. Something wrong with this spell checker too. Keeps underlining the word 'combobulation'

Damn you SydneyKid! In another thread called "what fits in your boot" or some crap I admitted that I made a custom fibreglass esky to utilise the minimal space of my r33 boot, but then I bought a rear strut brace and it "clashed" Now I read your bloody logical argument that this was a pointless addition and I'm pissed off. Well I say, there are some things we don't wanna know. Important things! Ignorance was bliss. Can't you just talk crap and call everybody thick based on heresay and Wikipedia-sourced info like so many others? Or admit you're trying to sell swaybars as the primary motive behind this? I need a drink.......

A damn good quality R32 GTR is what I would buy with $20k if I was in your position. My R33 gtst owes me roughly $35k but I've just grown a financially unhealthy attachment to it, the 32 GTR is the superior car, and I know you'll enjoy it. I'm more interested in the Aristo or Chaser these days, to be honest, because I miss good size 4 doors, but you'll have far better chance of getting upgraded or customizing parts for the GTR, not to mention a larger range of vehicle choices, and 4WD as a bonus. Occasionally a respected workshop will sell a beautifully modified R&D car for peanuts compared to what the parts and labour cost. Even if you get sick of it or, heaven forbid, crash it, you can make back your money selling parts. Oh and the Pulsar GTI-R is fantastic fun. I knew a bloke who took all the crap off one to make it look dull as dishwater and really beefed up the important bits. A true sleeper that, more importantly, was brilliant to drive.

Here's a piece of plastic for $60 delivered. And it has a sticker! Sweet! Plastic Ebay item!!

Honestly, the mesh is not a bad idea. Mine is missing thanks to the previous owner, but let's face it, Nissan/Bosch probably did more R&D on this piece of mesh than any mechanic ever will, and they chose to put it on for a reason. If they chose a path that was simply cheaper then that may over-ride what they consider optimal, but leaving the mesh off would have been the cheaper alternative here so that theory is out the window. Mine runs fine without it, always has, and it doesn't bother me cos I'll ditch it for a Z32 soon enough anyway. I can't see that it would be that hard to find suitable mesh for the application. Go to a tobacconist and see if they still sell those gauze pads for cone pieces. They'll be way too small in diameter for this purpose but whatever company produces them obviously makes the mesh. If stoners can get their hands on it easily, you'll be able to. Or you could buy another and sell me yours for $50, offsetting the price slightly, whatever floats your boat.

My mate took the cluster out of his Toyota and removed the plastic front, put it back in then followed me at 60 according to my speedo. He held the speed, pushed the needle back on at 60 and replaced the plastic front. Been correct ever since. ahhh quality mechanical work, there's just nothing finer for your 87 camry

+1 Particularly when they clearly have access to Jap parts for "cheap cheap cheap." If I could get and RB26 for around $700 I'd probably wring its neck till it died then go get another one too....

This one? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Di...nd-t110431.html

How many were sold in Australia? I don't think it's completely out of the question, though unlikely I'll admit. Some members do appear to have piles of disposable income, and even enough taste to own things beyond Nissans, so the question stands.

Sorry about the double post, I forgot to add the picture. Must be allergic to beer, every time I drink a dozen or so I start to get a reaction.....

Silver vw golf/polo?? rego looks to be 434-LKI sorry I just took this when we were driving past. Wouldn't have noticed if he hadn't left his flashing lights on. Cairns area. Nice dent. Feel sorry for the poor sap who ran into the back of this car (assuming the twit didn't reverse into something)