PhilKenSebben

YOU BANNED HIM?!?! That kid was hilarious! God I hope he comes back with some of his tirades. Seriously, sorry guys but your responses were often nowhere near as funny as the shit dribbling out his mouth! Who can forget classics like, "tyres are unimportant", "I'm not interested in hooning but how do I do a burnout?", and "Will thrashing the shit out of my skyline hurt it in any way?" I have been following his posts for days now and couldn't wait for it to hit the point of... "One of my mates reckons that petrol is a liquid, and so is water. So instead of paying bullshit prices for fuel he reckons you can use this stuff called distilled water from SuperCheap. I think it's overpriced cos i have a hose at my house so I'll just use it. My mate reckons it has made no difference to the way his vn commodore runs, which is not at all at the moment because it is up on stands getting 32 inch rims put on. But he is quietly confident it will work. Well not so much quietly confident as very vocally confident. So may say arrogant, or even 'tosser'. So i'll give it a try once my car is going again. It sort of went bang mid burnout. My mates reckons its cos the wheels are too small and not shiny enough so the engine can't run in properly, but this mechanic bloke reckons it was cos of our home made engine oil."

Mine were damn near impossible to remove. I figure if they're that old practically melted on, then they're not worth having. So I just cut em off and replaced the lot. Fuel hose is pretty cheap thankfully.

unplug the cluster and clean ALL the contacts with contact cleaner first. Sometimes it really is that stupidly simple. It may not fix it but it only takes 15 minutes and a $5 tin of contact cleaner to find out.

I should also add that engine HOURS are different to kms. Even if the k's ARE genuine, it may have spent ludicrous amounts of hours idling in traffic, and that takes its toll on the internals. That said, it should still be more reliable than a brand new falcodore.

Just go on the condition of the car. I know drivers that will F**K a car in 20,000kms and drivers who will have an awesome car after 150,000kms. When I bought my 33 I was told it was owned by a 40 year old who owned it since new. WHAT BS! And yet i bought it cos it passed the basic criteria I look for. If you don't know what to look for, take it to someone who does! Any seller who won't let you take it to a professional has something to hide. I was truly stunned when I had coil overs installed and got told that NONE of the bushes were worn, and the chassis was in great nick. When I had it tuned with an apexi pfc they did things like compression testing and told me it was in excellent condition, likely to never have been boosted. My mechanic (very trusted friend) told me the kms were either genuine or it had the fussiest of fussy owners Japan, as everything was tip top. The panel beaters could tell me it had been rear ended fairly lightly but the repair job was spot on, so it was literally as good as new. I was VERY surprised by these outcomes, but it does happen. Take anything with a grain of salt when someone wants you to buy their car, but true professionals can smell BS a mile away. Pay one of them to give it to you straight.

I'm an autoglazier (flash way of saying windscreen fitter) and yeah, pillarless doors do tend to scratch more quickly. there are places that polish scratches, but you'll never get it back to 100%. You can keep the felt clean which will definately help but as we do tinting as well I just have it re-tinted every time it gets scratched and let the tint wear out instead of the glass. But I can get it for nothing so I know this is hardly a viable solution for most.

Anyone got pics of where I should be looking? My 33 make this noise whenever I start it and it drives me nuts!!! Especially since my aircon comp shat itself so I get the noise to PROVE I have an aircon that doesn't bloody work!

If you trust whiteline then go in to pedders and you you will discover - lo and behold - pedders is officially partnered with whiteline's products.

At the risk of being shot down by the 'experts' I recently bought a set of pedders new xtreme coilovers. Jap made, height adjustable without shortening the spring rate, $2k fitted. Well priced from what I found. Very happy. Now for the inevitable reprisals that come from buying non jap company products.....and likely to be told they're made in China, Taiwan, Backwardsthirdworldcountrystaffedbytenyearoldkids.

I'm interested in this group buy if i can. How do I go about it? pm me

Pedders just rooted one of mine by tightening it WAY too far with a rattle gun but it was $6 for a brand newie from nissan. I want to do it myself for the sake of learning and because I don't want to give it back to them to fix it. Does the hub have to come off or can they be knocked out as it sits on my 33 gtst?

nice job. sorry it's off topic but this may make you feel a little better. Back when i worked in a servo some twit bought a 5 litre oil bottle and poured the BLOODY LOT into the petrol tank of daddy's brand new hsv clubsport. he came back in a cloud of smoke complaining of a dodgy batch of oil i had sold him and when i checked the security tapes i pissed myself. bet daddy didn't. and yet he had 4 mates in the car with him and no one uttered a word.

I am about to order an X-Force dump/front pipe and hi-flow cat. I've been told they are very good. I wanted stainless but they are double the price and apparently mild steel will last a bloody long time anyway. Agree?

I dunno. I would remove the boost controller and get a new piece of hose, return the standard BOV to factory (as in the pics) for the boys in blue. Then if you want the boost controller put it in the correct place. Try this thread: Installing a manual boost controller for beginners

Hey mate. your standard bov should only have the 2 pipes coming off it, a small one facing towards the inlet plenum and a large one pointing to the passenger side of the car. The small goes to the rear of the plenum and the other connects to the return pipe directly in front of it. If it ain't obvious (and if he got defected) he has probably removed the return pipe, so you'll need that too. If the one heading to the inlet plenum isn't obvious then is it an aftermarket plenum as well? I hope these photos help.

I installed a EL gauge kit in my r33 and I took it for a drive, adjusted everything but till correct but the needles sort of 'stick' at certain points. The speedo isn't as smooth and neither is the tacho. it's pretty accurate but I'm unhappy with the jerkiness of the needles. Anyone who gets in my car comments on them jumping around. I thought about restoring them back to the factory ones but I doubt this will fix it. Did i press them onto the shafts too hard? would a bit of WD40 or contact cleaner help?

Nah mate, that's your harmonic combobulator. Without it your car will soon cease combobulation.

I'm an autoglazier by trade and have to add some important points. What is OEM on the tail-lights is a butyl sealer, it USED to be used for windscreen sealer years ago. Today's windscreens (mainly due to airbags being more commonplace) are installed with polyurethane. The pic of the windscreen sealer used is correct, just make sure it is the NON-SETTING type or you will NEVER get your tail lights out again without destroying them. I don't want to see any of you buye "windscreen sealer" then discovering later that it is urethane based. Silicone does set so I wouldn't recommend it either but is a LOT weaker than urethane. What you want is sometimes called mastic sealer and yes, it's god awful stuff that gets everywhere. Just grap a chunk of it on the end of a spanner or something and tap it onto the bits still on the car. You'll find it sticks to itself better than anything else and should come away in decent lumps. Prepsol (or generic wax and grease remover) removes it and is probably the safest on your paint work, but kero does an excellent job for a lot cheaper. DO NOT drop some on the ground, step in it, then walk on carpets, either in your car or the bedroom, as the missus will discover swear words you never knew existed. That said, WD40 does a surprisingly good job of removing it, and because its a spray, can really get it off car seats etc with the help of a clean rag

Anybody doing this themselves be advised I would NEVER recommend using what appears to be standard garden hose in the pics. Go to an auto parts shop and discover just how cheap a metre of correctly sized fuel hose can be.

Do you have a front mount? is there a decent air gap between it and the radiator? Is the intercooler a densely packed one (heaps of fins, not uncommon even in expensive coolers)

I regularly sift through ebay looking for bargains and cannot get over how often you find $20 plastic boxes that, once connected to your battery and nothing else, suddenly give you TEN MILLION HORSEPOWER!!!@@#!@@# I still love to read the testimonials from "car and motor racing enthusiasts" who are stunned at the incredible power gain they received when they connected their SUPER FUN HAPPY BIG TIME GO FAST MEGA POWER INDUCTOR tm. And it only took 5 minutes to attach! I guess I'm still bewildered that ANYBODY would purchase these and wonder if it's a case of "it's only $10 and I am in fact a twit" but these companies must be making money because the products still keep popping up. My new favourite is ebay item #370158045856. I just love its sporty look, "Horse Across simple lock grip!", "LA landfall on the west coast of the United States from Japan in reverse! ！ !" and "Food engine or open the fuel injection pump and tank, in a joint fuel supply fuel to挟み込んradiator hose or hose with a clamping bolt please." And at only $185 plus postage! SWEEEEEEET.

Do the fuel delivery first. No point paying for a turbo that the injectors and/or pump can't handle. If that's done go for it

It always happens when 1 too much alcohol has been consumed 2 simultaneously answering ya GFs Qs Yeah ok fair call it was just the hoses swapped. I forgot i did that one when installing the front mount with low light, mates with questionable "advice" and as i seem to recall, no less than 2 cartons of beer, without which mates refuse to get their hands dirty. Thank god that mystery has been solved, i can sleep at night again. cheers guys

I have no idea, but remember it could just be a coincidence. Don't kill hours trying to solve the problem based on the muffler install, start with simple, cheap 5 minute checks and see if it helps. If you had installed a full exhaust that was much more free flowing and had an oiled pod filter the extra air drawn through can put oil on the afm and cause false readings. While this may not be the case, it is where i would start before doing more time consuming things, which is why your mechanic tried simply resetting the ecu before anything else like getting the spark plugs out and checking for fouling etc Once again though, I'm not a mechanic

I dunno if they are interchangeable. Stick to what you have would be the safest bet. I have a series 1 and wanted to buy a series 2 compressor because it had much lower k's when removed from the car but the seller told me that the pipes were different sizes so i decided against it. you have an r33gtst s1 correct? next time i find a cheapie on ebay i'll post you a link. there are plenty of skyline wreckers in the brisbane area that would have a better idea than i do