MUNDA

i ran into a problem today.... this has been happening for 2-3 days now. When i hit boost in my car, as soon as i hit 0.5 bar, my car starts to stutter (like it's missfiring), and if i continue to my full boost (one bar) the car basically comlpletely dies (back to idle while the car is still boosting). I have a cold air intake i have GT2860R-7 turbos stock ecu please help me solve this issue

could this be my stock BOV's leakin?

Im reading a aftermarket gauge, the stock gauge is just above at the first notch when i boost, which is 7 PSI, teh same on my aftermarket gauge.

The actuators were fine when i put the turbos onto the car, how would they get stuck now?... i haven't even driven the car 50KM

The restrictor is in the turbo.

Hey guys, Alright, as some of you may know, i blew a rear turbo, so i purchased a brand new set of turbos, and replaced them. Now, i am making boost but only 7 PSI!!!. I removed the boost restrictor (the one by the fuse box), but i am still making 0.5 BAR (7PSI) of boost. Removing the boost restrictor had no effect on the boost. What could be wrong here? I am fairly sure that all the piping is tight, and clamped properly. Thanks, MUNDA

Hello, I am going to be getting the oil/water lines created for a standard turbo setup on a skyline GTR. The shop im getting them made from are wondering what side of braided hose they should use and the AN Fitting on each side. And to replace the banjo bolts, whats the NPT size on the turbo (both oil and water) and on the block (both oil and water) Also, what is the size for the coolant return lines? I have tried searching, have not found a definite answer. Thanks guys, MUNDA

HAHAHAHA You know, my movie taking skills . Now, did this collapse because of a garbage turbo (AKA HKS), or can it be due to bad oil, blocked line, or something similar?

Hey guys, As some of you may know, i have been having turbo issues, but if you dont, my car makes 0 boost, which is due likly to the issue i am about to describe. Here is a short video i made, as you can see, the exaust turbine wheel is "bent" toward one direction. Im almost 100% sure the turbine is bent. Could there be a possibility that the bearing has been shot? What other possibilities could there be? The turbo is a HKS 2530. Here is the video:

Pipes are off, now the AC compressor is in the way, can i take it off and remove it to the side? Thanks guys!

Hey guys, Alright, so i started the turbo removal process on my RB26DETT. I got everything removed, but i cant get the darn piping off that runs above the turbos/manifold. Should i be trying something specific, becuase i try and try, i cant get it to budge. If you look in the pictures i have posted, you can see the lines running on the top, i have been trying to remove the two eye bolts highlighted in the first picture. How would i go to remove these? Help is appriciated.

Thats a quick video that i made, you can clearly hear the turbos spinning on brake-boost. Note, when the car turns off, that is not due to a stall, after revving like that, the car usually dies, i dont know why, maybe this video can clarify something? Thanks, MUNDA

Alright, so i took off both actuators, looked at them, and they were fine. The springs seem to be hard, and the actuators were NOT stuck, i followed your steps. i really don't know what to do now. I'm completely lost, i have absolutely no idea with what could be wrong? What else could it be?

are you saying that to adjust the rods i must use a boost checker? Or are you referring to check when the actuator starts to open up?

Sorry. Someone needs to knock some sense into me, i need to learn how to read. It's late in Canada, i was going to get ready to go to bed that's why i didn't check by taking the actuator off. I will follow the testing steps tomorrow and will re-update this thread. If the actuator is working, but not closing fully, does that mean it's stuck, or just doesn't have enough strength to close the gate? In that case, can i adjust my actuator rods to close the gate fully?

Just opened her up, took a look at the actuators. They seem to be closed now, i have attached a picture below, do they seem correct? The are going slightly toward the front of the car. I also took a took at them with the car on idle, they stay in the same position. Oh, and both actuators are in the same position, slightly forward as described in the picture.

Alright, so i will be taking the actuators off when i get home. I will post results as soon as i get this done. Thanks 3lit3 32, you have been a GREAT help, hopefully my saga in the search for boost is fulfilled after this last obstacle....

Thats what im thinking, there is something wrong with the wastegate actuators. Which way do the wastegates open and close? so i can remove the rod and test them out manually?

Another addition, When i was looking at the turbos and wastegates, it looked like the actuator rods were too long? the wastegate "tang" was not in the middle, it was going toward the rear of the car. How far do they have to go to keep the wastegate open? I saw this when the car was turned off.

Alright guys, another somewhat good update. THE GAUGES ARE WORKING . i did test it, but there is still no boost, you can distinctively hear the turbos spooling, there is a definite "wine" to them. Both my aftermarket and stock gauges are showing vacume, the aftermarket shows around 500mmHg of vacume on idle. When i gun it, the vacume lowers, ad boost boost gauges fall onto the 0 mark, hence no boost. I took off the pipes and whatnot that are extended over the turbos, they are HKS turbos, and are mounted where the stock ones should be. I looked for any boost leaks.... i did soapy water test, i did the propane/butane test, but i cant seem to find anything. I did the test for the TPS, all the voltages are in range. I tested all the ECU earths aswell, they are all rock solid and are all working properly. Now, there are only the turbos left to work on, is there any way to check if the wastegates are open or closed while driving? IE, hook up a voltmeter to some sensor and look for a voltage change? Oh, and a side note, i cchecked the exaust, there is no clogging, took a flashlight shined it into each pipe and looked, good exaust flow. Hopefully now someone will be albo to help me narrow down this very, very annoying problem Thanks guys, MUNDA

Im in canada and nobody here takes the car... theres one place they have me booked for next week but tilll then i can try anything i can throw at it in hopes to fix it... so im open to thoughts of where I should look to fix things... im working on everything as i go i have checked all the main grounds and they are ok. Im not onto the ecu we willl see how that goes but for now im curious about this code 43

ok so i have been busy with my car and i was checking all grounds so far so good. well i randomly decided to check ecu codes again and now im getting a code 43 which is the throttle position sensor does this have anything to do with me not boosting or my gauges not working?? and where should my first step be to fix this?

Just an update, I took off the front bumper and checked for leaks there, from what i can tell i see NO boost leaks. The only thng still not working is the cluster, i was told by a shop that the cluster and no boosting are not related in any way. Could someone please clarify if the car could be thinking that the car is not moving, but in reality it is, and the wastegates are staying open? I just need somewhere to start, ive poked around every corner of the car. Thanks, MUNDA

any places i should start or pretty much start from one side of the car and go on where are the gauges earthed to?

But the lights screw it up so i dont know :S before the car came to me from japan it was fine (im in canada) theres videos showing it working and everything... I dont know what happened while coming here Im wondering if any of this is related to me having no boost... my guess is becuse the gauge is stuck at 0 im getting no boost, if i get the gauge to work then the boost problem will go away but im not sure