Deathwish

Was wondering if anyone had coverted their box over to an american box to handle high bhp levels like the the Jericho, Muncie or other USA ones as I believe they can handle BIG hp and have dog gears and some have the clutchless changes. I'll try and post up some links for you to browse. Thanks

Well i'm running a standard internals RB25 with cometic head gasket with greddy/trust inlet/exhaust manifolds along with 740cc injectors and turbonetics 700bhp turbo. Im putting out 549bhp and abuse the engine every time i use the car. Im changing to an RB30 and looking to get 650hp with standard internals. Im going to build a forged internals rb30 while i run the standard one and will be aiming for 800-850bhp. Im using an OS Geiken triple plate clutch thats good for 1000bhp. I've been looking at the Jericho 5spd box. Anyone have any tips for other types of box could handle that power? Thanks

Well im going to be using a small 2 ram hydralic system that was originally off a small convertible car. Im still in two minds as to wether to use a large flat (bootflush) drag style spoiler, or the high drift style type. Someone mentioned about using a pressure switch on the brake pedal. The sysrem from the caor uses a two way 3 wire switch that raises and lowers the roof. Im thinking of using a lever to raise it faster. I'll try and do a drawing of what im looking to do with the bits i've already got. Been thinking of doing a similar system for a front splitter which would push the splitter forward and down at speed. It would help with speed ramps too as my car is pretty low and catches most things on the road. The system only weighs around 8-10lb, the pump is about 3" diameter and 8" long.

Has anyone made or attempted to fit an air break on their car? Im currently in the planning process of putting on on my RB25 GTS-t which has 549bhp, but im putting an RB30 in with a lot more power and brakes can only do so much. Im using hydraulics to raise and lower it, but I want be able to manually/speed adust it for higher speed corners to help with cornering. I will try to put up pictures when I start the project. Thanks

Apologies for interupting this thread, Im building a RB30/25 and aiming for 800bhp. I know that at higher revs i need solid lifters Which i have in an old head from my old RB25 engine which revved to 10,000rpm. im doing a new head as the old one's got a crack in it. I've had it welded but am not too sure about using it on a forged set up in case it destroys itself. So what im asking is..... Can the oil feed for the vcy just be blocked off? and if it does and i use the solid lifters, do the lifters still get oil from the standard oil feed, especially as im going to be blanking off the rear of the two head oil feeds and restricting the other. Many thanks for all info given.

Is the RB30 block the DET (turbo) version and has it had any of the mods ready for the 25 head / tensioner / oil restriction etc Also how much just for the block? Thanks Neil

Right then as mentioned in the title, i'm looking for an RB30 DET engine to put in my R33GTS-t. I'd be happy to get a standard internal one and might buy a forged short motor but prefer that it had all the mods done to it already as i want to just stick a 25 head on it and get it up and running as soon as so i don't miss too much of the summers good weather. There is a down side to all this though.... I live in South Wales, in the UK. Can anyone recommend someone or a company that sells them. Regards Neil

Hey all. Just saw this thread and thought i'd post up what mine is running. I've got a standard RB25 with a cometic race head gasket. Turbonetics .69 series Turbo 740cc injecyorsGreddy topmount manifold Greddy inlet manifold with 90mm throttle body splitfire coil packs Trust frontmount intercooler 4" 4" turbo back exhaust uprated Bosch 040 in tank pump and uprated pump in boot Greddy Profec B boost controller OS Geiken triple plate clutch Map 1 - 408bhp Map 2 - 489bhp Map 3 - 549bhp

Hi mate, i've got a standard engine in my car with a race head gasket and a big turbo on my Gts-t and all the supporting mods for making bigish power but as it is standard it probably wont do much after 8000rpm without something going wrong. My turbo starts boosting at 4500 and im on the limiter at 7500 so its pretty laggy shall we say lol. If you want to run higher rpm your're going to have to fit forged internals and i lightened, balanced crank as well as solid lifters and probably some porting and polishing too. Thats what i had on my old engine and it used to rev to 10,000rpm all day long, it was much easier to make the big power with the higher rpm. Regards, Thwish

Again thanks for all your comments guys. Ok then, i'll try and answer as many questions as i can. 1. Its used 99% on the road but gets really used lol. 2. Its running on a Greddy/Trust Topmount stainless steel manifold. 3. Dont know the actual temps as i dont have any sensors measuring it. 4. I just go by how hand hot the actual inlet plenum and intercooling piping gets. 5. The temp gauge in the dash doesn't show it going over half way so its not overheating as such but just want to get the overall temp down as it cant be doing much good for power and engine wear. Thanks for all your input, it is much appreciated. Thwish

thanks for your replys guys. I have a carbon triple vent bonnet on it already. I've been considering an intercooler mister to try and cool the inlet charge a little and maybe put a mister on the oil cooler while im at it. I've also looked into fitting an electric water pump which would keep the water circulating after the engine is switched off for a while until the engine temperature has dropped to a level im happy with. What about venting air from vents at the bottom of my do-luck from bumper up into the engine bay at the inlet plenum and manifold to try and keep them cooler when driving? Regards, Thwish

Ok then where do i start. I've got an R33Gts-t. Its a standard engine but with a race head gasket. Its got a greddy inlet plenum with 740 injectors and a turbometics A.65 series turbo and a full 4" straight through exhaust. I've got a race rad and a greddy oil cooler and filter relocator. Its putting out 549bhp on the top map. Heres the problem, im having really bad heat soak/transfer to everything under the bonnet. Im after some advice and ideas as to how i can reduce the heat problem. Its not overheating or anything but everything is really hot. I've wrapped the manifold and got a heat shield on the turbo. Im considering putting an water/oil cooler on the gearbox to help there.

im running a standard engine except for a race head gasket and around 1 bar on the lower map which gives me 400bhp and 1.2bar on top map which gives me 549bhp. It gets thrashed every time i use it and its absolutely cracking.

Hi y'all. Im an R33 owner from South Wales in the uk. After reading this thread i've decided to do an undertray on my car. Im going for the full undertray using 1.5-2mm aluminium. I've got a full Jun body kit which sits pretty low but want to try out something different which will help the handling. Im going to be putting in a few vents to aid air flow from the engine and to help with cooling as mentioned earlier in this thread. I'll try and post up some pics as i progress. I'm also going to try and do some testing on low pressure areas using a water manometer to make sure im not creating high pressure under the car which will be bad...VERY BAD lol Regards, thwish

Hi guys n gals. been reading through almost all of the 246 pages of this thread and am just seeking some advice. im running a standard RB25 GTS-t engine (except for a race head gasket). with 740cc injectors Greddy inlet plenum Greddy 40mm piping top mount manifold with a T04 twin port flange Turbonetics A65R turbo (good for around 700bhp) HKS 4" straight through drag exhaust with a 5" back box Q45 100mm throttle body AEM ecu Greddy BOV 13 row intercooler race radiator Os Gieken triple plate drag clutch individual coil packs probably more so will update when i check the spec list again. what i would like is any advice on which RB30 block would be best for me. i like to use the power ofet and at full rev's so would a standard block suffice or do i need to go down the forged route, if so would the stock crank do or do i need to get it lightened/treated. also do they handle NOs well or is there no need with the amount of torque they produce. My Current engine doesnt start boosting properly until around 4000-4500rpm and is hitting the limiter at 7250rpm or so. i've read that the RB30 blocks dont like high revs but what would they handle on a regular basis. ALL info much appreciated. Regards, Thwish